ItL 215 
. C3 

c 1913 

J Manual of 

Adjustment, Repair and 
Lubrication 

Type 57 



For shop use 


Cadillac Motor Car Company 
Detroit, Michigan, U. S. A. 












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Manual of 

Adjustment, Repair and 
Lubrication 

Type 57 



For shop use 


Cadillac Motor Car Company 
Detroit, Michigan, U. S. A. 

First Edition—Price $1.00 
Copyrighted 1918 








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©CLASH 193 




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PREFACE 


The directions, suggestions and information contained in this man¬ 
ual represent actual experience in the shops of the Cadillac Motor Car 
Company. Part One deals with adjustments; Part Two with the 
removal, inspection and replacement of parts, and Part Three with 
lubrication. This manual is intended for shop use strictly, and has 
been compiled with this end in view. 

It has always been the practice in the manufacture of Cadillac 
motor cars to machine parts to limits and to inspect parts before they 
are assembled into cars to make certain that they have been held to 
the established limits in manufacture. A result of this practice is 
that correct clearances between moving parts are assured. 

One of the objects of this manual is to establish limits for use in 
the inspection of parts which have seen service. These limits are 
supplied in Part Two under headings “Inspection.” The limits named 
are those beyond which it is inadvisable to continue to use parts, if 
quietness of operation and maximum efficiency are expected in the 
operation of the car, but not necessarily beyond which some service, 
in normal use, cannot be obtained. 

Suitable micrometers and dial indicators are necessary in making 
these inspections. 

This manual will not only assist the repair man schooled in Cadillac 
shops, but will make it possible for the trained mechanic without 
previous Cadillac shop experience to adjust, repair and lubricate 
Cadillac cars correctly. 

Our Technical Department invites correspondence with shop 
foremen and shop superintendents on matters pertaining to the care, 
adjustment and repair of Cadillac motor cars. Suggestions regarding 
these matters are appreciated. 

CADILLAC MOTOR CAR COMPANY 
Detroit, Michigan. 


TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Part I. Ad j ustmen ts.9-54 

Part II. Removal, Inspection and Replacement.55-148 

Part III. Lubrication.149-157 


INDEX 


A Page 

Acid in storage battery. 29 

Adjustments— 

Bearings, Caution in adjusting 

Timken. 53 

Bearings, Connecting rod. 9 

Bearings, Crankshaft, Main. 9 

Bearings, Gear and pinion (Rear 

axle). 42 

Bearings, Spindle. 49 

Bearings, Wheel, Front. 51 

Bearings, Wheel, Lubrication of... 157 

Bearings, Wheel, Rear. 52 

Bearings, Worm thrust (Steering 

gear). 49 

Brakes, Foot (External). 46 

Brakes, Hand (Internal).47-48 

Cam slide. 13 

Carburetor. 37 

Clutch pedal clearance. 41 

Clutch pedal, Length of. 41 

Clutch pedal stop. 41 

Contact points, Timer. 23 

Gears for proper meshing (Rear 

axle). 44 

Headlamps, Focusing. 20 

Oil pressure regulator.154 

Rear axle gears.42-44 

Sector shaft (Steering gear). 51 

Steering gear.49-51 

Valves, Thermostat. 35 

Wheels, Front, Alignment of. 52 

Alignment of front wheels. 52 

Ammeter. 26 

Anti-freezing solution. 32 

Automatic throttle. 39 

Axle shafts (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).128-129 

Axles (See Front Axle and Rear 
Axle).42 and 49 

B 

BafHe plate (Oil pan). 78 

Bands, Brake, Relining. 49 

Battery, Storage (see Storage Bat¬ 
tery) . 28 

Bearings— 

Ball, Annular, Removal of (Dis¬ 
tributor and Timer).102 

Ball thrust, Removal of (Clutch). .112 

Caution in adjusting Timken. 53 

Connecting rod, Adjustment of.... 9 


Bearings —Continued Pa £ e 

Crank pin (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).55-58 

Crank pin, Fitting. 10 

Crank pin, Fitting new standard 

size. 10 

Crank pin, Fitting new undersized. 10 

Crank pin, Refitting used. 10 

Crankshaft, Main, Adjustment of . 9 

Crankshaft, Main, Fitting. 11 

Crankshaft, Main (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).58-59 

Dressing down crankshaft bearing 

surfaces. 11 

Fanshaft (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement.59-60 

Gear and pinion, Adjustment of 

(Rear axle). 42 

Grease for wheels.149 

Plain, Removal of (Distributor and 

Timer).101 

Removal of annular ball bearing 

(Motor generator). 97 

Removal roller bearing (Motor 

generator). 97 

Spindle, Adjustment of. 49 

Transmission clutch connection 
[Rear bearing] (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).... 115-116 
Transmission shaft, Main [Rear 
bearing] (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).120-121 

Wheel, Front, Adjustment of. 51 

Wheel, Front, Removal of (Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).140-142 

Wheel, Rear, Adjustment of. 52 

Wheel, Rear, Removal of (Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).140-142 

Worm thrust, Adjustment of. 49 

Bent parts, Straightening. 53 

Blocks, Cylinder (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).60-63 

Body (Removal, Replacement).146 

Body and top, Storage of. 16 

Breakers, Circuit. 93 

Brakes (Adjustments).46-49 

Foot (External) Adjustment of.. . . 46 
Hand (Internal) Adjustment of. .47-48 

Illustration of. 47 

Relining. 49 

Brushes— 

Fitting motor generator. 18 

Removal of generator. 97 

Removal of motor. 97 

Bulbs, Lamp. 20 


IV 













































































INDEX—Continued 


C Page 

Cam, Placing in position. 13 

Cams, Positions of, for adjusting cam 

slides. 12 

Camshaft (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .86-87 

Cam slides— 

Adjustment of. 13 

Position of cams for adjustment of. 12 
Cam slides and guides (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 91 

Carburetor (Removal, Disassembly, 
Inspection, Replacement) .... 105-109 

Adjustment of. 37 

Automatic throttle. 39 

Float, Setting of. 39 

Illustration of.38 and 106 

Throttle pump. 39 

Caution in adjusting Timken bear¬ 
ings . 53 

Chains— 

Camshaft driving chain (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement).... 64-65 
Fan shaft driving chain (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement).... 65-66 
Looseness of [Camshaft] (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 64 

Looseness of [Fanshaft] (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 65 

Riveting. 14 

Chambers, Settling. 37 

Circuit breaker. 93 

Cleaning cooling system. 34 

Clutch (General description). 40 

Clutch (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .111-113 

Connection [Transmission] (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .115-116 

Connection, Rear bearing (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .115-116 

Discs, Relining. 40 

Discs, Removal of.112 

Driving, Removal and Disassembly 

of (Motor generator). 96 

Illustration of.117 

Pedal, Adjustment of length of.. . . 41 
Pedal clearance, Adjustment of . .. 41 

Pedal stop, Adjustment of 41 

Removal-of.112 

Spring, Removal of.112 

Thrust ball race, Lubrication of... 157 

Commutator. 18 

Compressor— 

Power air [Gasoline system] (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .109-110 

Tire air (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .113-115 

Connecting rods (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).82-85 

Bearings, Adjustment of. 9 

Steering (Disassembly, front and 

rear, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .139-140 


Page 

Control lever (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).118-119 

Cooling System (Description).32-36 

Cooling system (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).103-105 

Anti-freezing solution. 32 

Cleaning. 34 

Draining. 34 

Filling. 34 

Illustration showing path of circu¬ 
lation. 33 

Pump packing glands, Water. 35 

Radiator (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).103-104 

Strainers, Water pump. 35 and 104-105 
Thermostat valves, Adjustment of. 35 
Cover plate— 

Front (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement).75-76 

Top (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .76-77 

Crank case (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).63-64 

Crank pin— 

Bearings (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).55-58 

Bearings, Fitting. 10 

Bearings, Fitting new standard 

size. 10 

Bearings, Fitting new undersize... 10 

Bearings, Refitting used. 10 

Surfaces, Dressing down. 11 

Crankshaft— 

Bearings, Main, Adjustment of. . . 9 

Bearings, Main, Fitting. 11 

Cup grease, Cadillac.149 

Cylinder— 

Blocks (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .60-63 

Heads (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .71-72 

D 

Danger of running engine in closed 

garage, Personal. 39 

Delco electrical system (see Electrical 

system).16-32 

Depots, Exide. 32 

Diagram— 

Charging battery from 110 volt D. 

C. circuit. 30 

Circuit. 21 

Lubrication.156 

Wiring. 19 

Differential and large driven gear 
(Removal, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment).126-127 

Disassembly— 

Axle, Front.132 

Axle, Rear.125 

Carburetor.105 

Compressor, Tire air.113 

Differential and large driven gear. .126 

Engine. 68 

Joints, Universal.124 


v 











































































INDEX—Continued 


Disassembly —Continued Pa s e 

Springs.145 

Steering gear.137 

Transmission.122 

Discs, Clutch, Relining. 40 

Distributor and Timer (Description). 22 
Distributor and Timer (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).100-103 

Contact points, Adjustment of.. . . 23 
Head (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) . 99 

Ignition, Timing. 23 

Illustration of.23 and 101 

Lubrication mechanism in distribu¬ 
tor housing.157 

Rotor (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .99-100 

Rotor button track, Cleaning. 23 

Draining cooling system. 34 

Dressing down bearing surfaces— 

Crankpin. 11 

Crankshaft. 11 

Main. 11 

Driving pinion and pinion shaft (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replacement).. 129 

E 

Electrical system (Description) . . .16-32 
Electrical system (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).93-103 

Circuit breaker. 25 

Current, Generation of. 26 

Diagram, Circuit. 21 

Diagram, Wiring. 19 

Distributor head (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement). 99 

Distributor rotor (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).99-100 

Distributor and Timer (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .100-103 

Ignition system. 22 

Lamps. 20 

Motor generator. 16 

Motor generator (Testing, Remov¬ 
al, Inspection, Replacement) 94-99 

Storage battery. 28 

Engine (Removal, Disassembly, In¬ 
spection) .66-69 

Engine (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement of parts).55-93 

Engine (Adjustments).9-16 

Bearings, Crankpin (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement).... 55-58 
Bearings, Fanshaft (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement) . ... 59 - 60 
Bearings, Main (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).58-59 

Camshaft (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).86-87 

Cam slides and guides (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 91 

Chain, Camshaft driving (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement) .... 64-65 
Chain, Fanshaft driving (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement).... 65-66 


Engine —Continued Tage 

Chains, Riveting. 14 

Connecting rods (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).82-85 

Connecting rod and crankshaft 

bearings, Adjustment of. 9 

Cover plate, Front (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).75-76 

Cover plate, Top (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).76-77 

Crankcase (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).63-64 

Crankpin bearings, Fitting. 10 

Crankshaft (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).87-89 

Crankshaft bearing surfaces, Dres¬ 
sing down. 11 

Cylinder blocks (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).60-63 

Cylinder heads (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).71-72 

Data, General. 8 

Fan, (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) . 70 

Firing order. 12 

Flywheel (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).92-93 

Gear Spiral, for oil pump (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement).70-71 

Illustration of.56 and 61 

Lubrication.150 and 157 

Manifold, Intake (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement). 73 

Number, Location. 8 

Oil pan and baffle plate (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 78 

Piston pins (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).73-74 

Piston and piston rings (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement). .. .74-75 
Pump, Oil (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement). 79 

Pumps, Water (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).80-81 

Regulator, Oil pressure (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 82 

Rocker arms and shafts (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 55 

Shaft, Drive, for water pump (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replacement) 90 

Storage. 15 

Valves. 12 

Valves and Valve Springs (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .91-92 

Exide battery depots. 32 

External brakes, Adjustment of. . . . 46 
External brakes (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).125-126 


Fan (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) . 70 

Reassembly and Replacement.... 69 
Fanshaft driving chain (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement).65-66 


VI 








































































INDEX—Continued 


Fanshaft driving chain —Continued Pa £ e 

Looseness of]. 65 

Fanshaft housing (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement). 72 

Fenders (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .147-148 

Filling the cooling system. 34 

Filling the lubricating system.151 

Firing order (Engine). 12 

Fitting bearings— 

Crankpin. 10 

Crankshaft, Main. 10 

Standard size, New. 10 

Undersize, New. 10 

Fitting brushes, Motor generator.... 18 

Float, Carburetor, Setting. 39 

Flywheel (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .92-93 

Timing marks on. 12 

Focusing headlamps. 20 

Forks, Shifter [Transmission] (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replacement). 120 
Frame (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .142-144 

Front axle (Adjustments). 49 

Front axle (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .132-133 

Bearings, Front wheels, Adjusting. 51 
Bearings, Spindle, Adjustment of. 49 
Parallel rod (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).133-134 

Spindles (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .134-136 

Stop screws, Spindle arms. 49 

Steering arms (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).130-131 

Wheel and bearings, Front (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replacement) 

.140-142 

Wheels, Front, Alignment of. 52 

Front cover plate (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement)..75-76 

Front wheels (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).140-142 

Alignment of. 52 

Bearings, Adjusting. 51 

Bearings (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).140-142 

Lubrication.. 149, 157 


G 

Garage, Personal danger of running 

car in. 39 

Gasoline system (Description and 

Adjustments).36-39 

Gasoline system (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).105-109 

Carburetor (Adjustments).. . . 37 

Carburetor (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement) ...... .105-109 

Compressor, Power air (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement). .109-110 

Illustration of. 37 

Pressure relief valve. 36 


Gasoline system —Continued Page 

Settling chambers. 37 

Strainers. 37 

Tank (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .110-111 

Gasoline tank capacity. 8 

Gauge, Gasoline quantity, Removal 

of.110 

Gear— 

Differential and large driven (Re¬ 
moval, Disassembly, Inspection, 

Replacement).126-127 

Spiral, for oil pump drive (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .70-71 

Steering (Adjustments). 49 

Steering (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .136-138 

Gear and pinion bearings, Adjust¬ 
ment of (Rear axle). 42 

Gear ratio—■ 

Axle. 8 

Between engine and rear wheels. . 8 

Transmission. 8 


Gears— 

Adjustment of for proper meshing 


(Rear axle). 44 

Jackshaft (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).117-118 

Shipper (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement.116 

Generator, Motor (Electrical sys¬ 
tem).16-17 

Brushes, Fitting. 18 

Generation of current. 26 

(Ivpnop__ 

Cup, Cadillac.149 

Steering Gear, Cadillac.150 

Wheel bearing, Cadillac.149 

Universal joint, Cadillac.150 

Grinding valves. 14 

Guides for cam slides (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement). 91 


H 


Hand brakes (External). 47 

Adjustment.47-48 

Relining brake bands. 49 

Headlamps— 

Bulbs. 20 

Focusing. 20 

Reflectors, Cleaning. 20 

Heads— 

Cylinder (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement)..71-72 

Distributor (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement). 99 

Housing— 

Axle, Rear (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).127-128 

Fanshaft, (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement). 72 

Worm and Sector, Steering gear 
(Removal, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .139 


VII 











































































INDEX—Continued 


I Page 

Ignition (Description, Adjustment).. 22 

Coil. 25 

Condenser. 25 

Contact points, timer, Adjust¬ 
ment of. 23 

Distributor and timer. 22 

Distributor rotor button track, 

Cleaning. 23 

Resistance unit. 24 

Spark plugs. 25 

Timing ignition. 23 

Inspection— 

Axle, Front.132 

Axle, Rear.125 

Baffle plate, (Oil pan). 78 

Bearing, Fanshaft. 60 

Bearing, Main. 59 

Bearing, Rear, Clutch connection 

(Transmission).115 

Bearing, Rear, Main transmission 

shaft.121 

Bearings, Crankpin. 57 

Brakes.126 

Carburetor.106 

Camshaft. 86 

Cam slides and guides. 91 

Chain, Camshaft driving. 64 

Chain, Fanshaft driving. 66 

Circuit breakers 93 

Clutch.112 

Clutch connection (Transmission). 115 
Compressor, Power air, in Gasoline 

system.109 

Compressor, Tire air.114 

Connecting rods. 83 

Control lever.119 

Cover plate, Front. 76 

Cover plate, Top. 77 

Crank case. 64 

Crankshaft. 87 

Cylinder blocks. 62 

Cylinder heads. 71 

Differential and large driven gear. 126 

Distributor head. 99 

Distributor rotor.100 

Distributor and timer.102 

Dust shields.147 

Engine. 69 

Fan. 70 

Fanshaft. 60 

Fanshaft housing. 72 

(Fenders.148 

Flywheel. 93 

Frame.143 

Gasoline tank.110 

Gear, Large driven (Rear axle). . . 126 

Gear, Spiral, for oil pump. 70 

Gears, Jackshaft.118 

Gears, Shipper.116 

Generator. 98 

Guides, for cam slides. 91 

Housing for steering gear worm 

and sector.139 

Housing, Rear axle.127 

Intake manifold. 73 

Jackshaft and jackshaft gears.118 


Inspection— Continued, Pa s e 

Joints, Universal.124 

Motor generator. 98 

Oil pan and baffle plate. 78 

Oil pump. 79 

Parallel rod.133 

Pinion, Driving, and pinion shaft.. 129 
Pinion, Reverse (Transmission).. .119 

Piston and piston rings. 74 

Piston pins. 73 

Pumps, water. 81 

Radiator.104 

Regulator, Oil pressure. 82 

Rings, Piston. 74 

Rocker arms and shafts. 55 

Rotor, Distributor.100 

Running boards and dust shields. . 147 

Shaft, axle.128 

Shaft, Drive, for water pumps.... 90 

Shaft, Main, Transmission.121 

Shaft, Pinion.129 

Shafts, for shifter forks.120 

Shifter forks and shafts.120 

Spindles, Axle, Front.135 

Springs.145 

Springs, Valve. 92 

Steering arms.131 

Steering connecting rod.140 

Steering gear.137 

Strainers, Water pumps.105 

Tank, Gasoline.110 

Timer.102 

Transmission.123 

Transmission case.Ill 

Universal joints.124 

Valves and valve springs. 92 

Wheels.142 

Intake manifold (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement). 73 

Internal brakes (Foot). 46 

Adjustment of. 46 


J 

Jackshaft and jackshaft gears [Trans¬ 
mission] (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .117-118 

Jackshaft gears (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).117-118 

Joints, Universal (Description). 42 

Joints, Universal (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).123-124 

L 


Lamps. 20 

Lamp bulbs. 20 

Lever, Control (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).118-119 

Lubrication (General).157 

Bearings on armature shaft.157 

Bearings in fan hub.157 

Bearing at upper end of steering 

shaft.157 

Clutch thrust ball race.157 

Diagram.'.156 

Engine.157 


VIII 











































































































INDEX—Continued 


Lubrication —Continued Pa e e 

Engine rear support.157 

Oi 1 . (see Lubricants).149 

Rear axle.155-157 

Springs.157 

Starter gear shaft.157 

Steering gear.157 

Tire air compressor.157 

Transmission.155-157 

Universal joints.157 

Valve stems.157 

Wheel bearings.157 

Lubrication (Engine).150 and 157 

Cold weather, Replacing oil fre¬ 
quently during.153 

Filling lubricating system.151 

Illustration of lubricating system. . 150 

Lubricating system.150 

Oil pressure.153 

Regulator, Oil pressure, Adjust¬ 
ment of.154 

Replace oil in engine.152 

Lubricants— 


Cadillac cup grease.149 

Cadillac motor oil.149 

Cadillac rear axle and transmission 

lubricant.149 

Cadillac steering gear grease.150 

Cadillac wheel bearing grease.149 

Cadillac universal joint grease . ... 150 


M 

Main bearings, (Removal, Inspec¬ 


tion, Replacement).58-59 

Main bearing surfaces, Dressing down 11 
Main crankshaft bearings, Adjust¬ 
ment of. 9 

Main crankshaft bearings, Fitting. . . 11 
Manifold, Intake (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement). 73 

Marks on flywheel, Timing. 12 

Motor. 17 

Motor generator (Description). 16 

Motor generator (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).94-99 


Inspection. 98 

Removal and disassembly of driv¬ 
ing clutch. 96 

Removal of annular ball bearing . . 97 

Removal of field coils. 98 

Removal of generator brushes .... 96 

Removal of motor brushes. 97 

Removal of motor generator. 97 

Removal of roller bearing. 97 

Testing (on car). 94 

Testing (off car). 95 

Motor generator brushes, Fitting.... 18 


N 


Number, Engine. 


O Page 

Oil, Cadillac motor.149 

Oil in engine, Replace.152 

Oil in engine, Replace frequently dur¬ 
ing cold weather.153 

Oil pan and baffle plate (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 78 

Oil pressure.153 

Oil pressure regulator (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement). 82 

Adjustment of.154 

Oil pump (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) . 79 

Order of firing (Engine). 12 

P 

Packing glands, Water pumps. 35 

Pan, Oil (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) . 78 

Parallel rod (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).133-134 

Parts, Straightening bent. 53 

Pedal, Clutch. 41 

Length, Adjustment of. 41 

Stop, Adjustment of. 41 

Pinion— 

Driving, and pinion shaft [Rear 
axle] (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .129 

Reverse [Transmission] (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement).119 

Shaft (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .129 

Piston and piston rings (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement)..74-75 

Piston pins (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).73-74 

Piston rings (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).74-75 

Plate— 

Baffle (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) . 78 

Front cover (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).7 5-7 6 

Top cover (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).76-77 

Plugs, Spark. 25 

Points, Timer contact, Adjustment of 23 
Position of cams for adjustment of 

cam slides. 12 

Power air compressor [Gasoline sys¬ 
tem] (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .109-110 

Pressure regulator, Oil (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement). 82 

Pressure relief valve. 36 

Pump— 

Illustration of water pump. 80 

Oil (Removal, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) . 79 

Throttle (Carburetor). 39 

Water (Adjustments).. 35 

Water (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .80-81 

Water, Drive shaft for (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement). 90 


(1) 
















































































INDEX—Continued 


Pump —■Continued Page 

Water, Packing glands. 37 

Water, Strainers (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).104-105 

R 

Radiator (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .103-104 

Anti-freezing solution. 32 

Draining. 34 

Filling. 34 

Rear axle (Adjustments). 42-45 

Rear axle (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .124-125 

Brakes (Adjustments).46-49 

Brakes (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .125-126 

Differential and large driven gear 
(Removal, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .126-127 

Gear and pinion bearings, Adjust¬ 
ment of. 42 

Gears for proper meshing, Adjust¬ 
ment of. 44 

Housing (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .127-128 

Illustration of. 43 

Lubrication of rear axle.156 

Pinion, Driving, and pinion shafts 
(Removal, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .129-130 

Rear axle and transmission lubricant, 

Cadillac.149 

Rear wheels (Adjustments).51-53 

Rear wheels (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).140-142 

Bearings, Adjustment of. 52 

Lubrication.156 

Reassembly and replacement of fan 69-70 
Reassembly and replacement of trans¬ 
mission .123 

Refitting a used crank pin bearing. . 10 
Regulator, Oil pressure (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement). 82 

Reflectors, Cleaning headlamp. 20 

Relief valve, Pressure (Gasoline sys¬ 
tem) . 36 

Relining clutch discs. 40 

Removal— 

Axle, Front.132 

Axle, Rear.124 

Baffle plate (Oil pan). 78 

Bearing, Annular ball (Motor gen¬ 
erator). 97 

Bearing, Fanshaft. 59 

Bearing, Main. 58 

Bearing, Rear, Clutch connection 

(Transmission).115 

Bearing, Rear, Main transmission 

shaft.121 

Bearing, Roller (Motor generator). 97 

Bearings, Crankpin. 55 

Brakes.125-126 

Brake band, External.125 

Brake band, Internal.126 

Carburetor.105 


Removal —Continued Page 

Crankshaft. 87 

Cam slides and guides. 91 

Chain, Camshaft driving. 64 

Chain, Fanshaft driving. 66 

Circuit breakers. 94 

Clutch.112 

Clutch ball thrust bearing.112 

Clutch connection (Transmission) .115 

Clutch discs.112 

Clutch spring.112 

Compressor, Power air (Gasoline) 109 

Compressor, Tire air.113 

Connecting rods. 82 

Control lever.118 

Cover plate, Front. 75 

Cover plate, Top. 76 

Crankcase. 63 

Crankshaft. 87 

Cylinder blocks. 60 

Cylinder heads. 71 

Differential and large driven gear. . 126 

Distributor head. 99 

Distributor rotor. 99 

Distributor and timer.100 

Distributor annular ball bearing.. . 102 

Distributor gear.102 

Distributor plain bearing.101 

Distributor spring.102 

Dust shields.147 

Engine. 66 

Fan. 70 

Fanshaft. 59 

Fanshaft housing. 72 

Fenders, Front.147 

Fenders, Rear.148 

Field coils. 98 

Flywheel. 92 

Frame.142 

Gasoline quantity gauge.110 

Gasoline strainer.110 

Gasoline tank.110 

Gear, large driven (Rear axle) .... 126 

Gear, Spiral, for oil pump. 70 

Gears, Jackshaft.117 

Gears, Shipper.116 

Generator. 97 

Generator brushes. 96 

Guides for cam slides. 91 

Housing for steering gear worm and 

sector.139 

Housing, Rear axle.127 

Intake manifold. 73 

Jackshaft and jackshaft gears.117 

Joints, Universal.123 

Motor brushes. 97 

Motor generator. 97 

Oil pan and baffle plate. 78 

Oil pump. 79 

Parallel rod.133 

Pinion, Driving, and pinion shaft. 129 
Pinion, Reverse (Transmission) .. .119 

Piston and piston rings. 74 

Piston pins. 73 

Pump impeller. 81 

Pumps, Water. 80 


(2) 






































































































INDEX—Continued 


Removal— Continued Pa s e 

Radiator.103 

Regulator, Oil pressure. 82 

Rings, Piston. 74 

Rocker arms and shafts. 55 

Rotor, Distributor. 99 

Running boards and dust shields. . 147 

Shaft, Axle.128 

Shaft, Drive, for water pump. 90 

Shaft, Main, Transmission.121 

Shaft, Pinion.129 

Shafts, for shifter forks.120 

Shifter forks and shafts.120 

Spindles, Axle, Front.134 

Spring, Front.145 

Spring, Rear.145 

Springs, Valve. 91 

Steering arms.130 

Steering connecting rod.139-140 

Steering gear.136-137 

Strainers, Water pumps.104-105 

Tank, Gasoline.110 

Thermostat. 80 

Thermostat valve. 81 

Timer.100-102 

Transmission.121 

Transmission case.Ill 

Universal joints.123 

Valves and valve springs. 91 

Wheels, Front, and bearings.140 

Wheels, Rear, and bearings.141 

Replace lubricant in transmission and 
rear axle.155 

Replace oil in engine.152 

Replace oil in engine frequently dur¬ 
ing cold weather.153 

Replacement— 

Acid, in storage battery, lost by 

spilling. 29 

Axle, Front.132 

Axle, Rear.125 

Baffle plate (Oil pan). 78 

Bearing, Fanshaft. 60 

Bearing, Main. 59 

Bearing, Rear, Clutch connection 

(Transmission).116 

Bearing, Rear, Main transmission 

shaft.121 

Bearings, Crankpin. 57 

Brakes.126 

Carburetor.109 

Camshaft. 87 

Cam slides and guides. 91 

Chain, Camshaft driving. 64 

Chain, Fanshaft driving. 66 

Circuit breaker. 94 

Clutch. 113 

Clutch connection (Transmission). 116 
Compressor, Power air (Gasoline 

system).110 

Compressor, Tire air.115 

Connecting rods. 85 

Control lever.119 

Cover plate, Front. 76 

Cover plate, Top. 77 

Crank case. 64 


Replacement - Continued Pa s e 

Crankshaft. 89 

Cylinder blocks. 63 

Cylinder heads. 72 

Differential and large driven gear . . 127 

Distributor head. 99 

Distributor rotor.100 

Distributor and timer.103 

Dust shields.147 

Fan. 70 

Fanshaft. 60 

Fanshaft housing. 72 

Fenders.148 

Flywheel. 94 

Frame.144 

Gasoline tank.Ill 

Gear, Large driven (Rear Axle). . . 127 

Gear, Spiral, for oil pump. 71 

Gears, Jackshaft.118 

Gears, Shipper.116 

Generator. 99 

Guides for cam slides. 91 

Housing for worm and sector.139 

Housing, Rear axle.128 

Intake manifold. 73 

Jackshaft and jackshaft gears.118 

Joints, Universal.124 

Motor generator. 99 

Oil pan and baffle plate. 78 

Oil pump. 79 

Parallel rod.133 

Pinion, Driving, and pinion shaft. 130 
Pinion, Reverse (Transmission) .. .119 

Piston and piston rings. 75 

Piston pins. 74 

Pumps, Water. 82 

Radiator.104 

Regulator, Oil pressure. 82 

Rings, Piston. 75 

Rocker arms and shafts. 55 

Rotor, Distributor.100 

Running boards and dust shields. . 147 

Shaft, Axle.129 

Shaft, Drive, for water pumps .... 90 

Shaft, Main, Transmission.121 

Shaft, Pinion.130 

Shafts for shifter forks.120 

Shifter forks and shafts.120 

Spindles, Axle, Front.136 

Springs.145 

Springs, Valve. 92 

Steering arms.131 

Steering connecting rod.140 

Steering gear.138 

Strainers, Water pumps.105 

Tank, Gasoline.Ill 

Timer.103 

Transmission.123 

Transmission case.Ill 

Universal joints.124 

Valves and valve springs. 92 

Wheels.142 

Resistance unit. 24 

Reverse pinion [Transmission] (Re¬ 


moval, Inspection, Replacement) .. 119 


(3) 




















































































































INDEX—Continued 


Page 


Page 


Rings, Piston (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).74-75 

Riveting chains (Engine). 14 

Rocker arms and shafts (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement). 55 

Rod- 

Connecting, Bearings, Adjustment 

of. 9 

Connecting (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).82-85 

Parallel rod (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).133-134 

Steering connecting rod (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement). . 139-140 
Rotor button track, Distributor, 

Cleaning. 23 

Rotor, Distributor (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).99-100 

Running boards and dust shields (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .146-147 


S 

Setting of carburetor float. 39 

Shafts— 

Axle (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .128-129 

Drive shaft for water pumps (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replacement).. 90 
Pinion shaft (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).129-130 

Rocker arm (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement). 55 

Shifter fork (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).120 

Transmission, Main (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).... 120-121 
Shields, Dust (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).146-147 

Shifter forks and shafts (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).120 

Shipper gears (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).116 

Spark plugs. 25 

Spindles— 

Front axle (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement). 134-136 

Illustration of.134 and 135 

Spindle arm stop screws. 49 

Spindle bearing, Adjustment of. 49 

Spiral gear for oil pump drive (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replacement).. 70 
Springs (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) . 145 

Lubrication of.157 

Removal of distributor and timer 

spring.102 

Valve (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .91-92 

Starter gear shaft, Lubrication of.. .. 157 
Starting mechanism, Illustration of... 17 
Steering arms (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).130-131 

Steering connecting rod (Removal, 
Inspection, Replacement).... 139-140 


Steering gear (Adjustments). 49 

Steering gear (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).136-138 

Illustration of. 50 

Lubrication.157 

Sector shaft, Adjustment of. 51 

Thrust bearing, Worm, Adjustment 

of. 49 

Worm and sector, Adjustment of. . 50 
Storage (Winter)—- 

Body and top. 16 

Engine. 15 

Storage battery. 15 

Taking car out of storage. 16 

Tires. 15 

Storage battery (Description). 28 

Acid, Replacing. 29 

Charging from an outside source. . 29 

Illustration. 28 

Placing battery in service (after 

storage). 31 

Preparing battery for storage. 31 

Sediment in. 32 

Stop, Clutch pedal, Adjustment of... 41 
Stop screws, Adjustment of 

(Brakes).46 and 48 

Stop screws, Spindle arm. 49 

Straightening bent parts. 53 

Strainers— 

Cooling system. 35 

Gasoline system. 37 

Water pumps (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).104-105 

Surfaces— 

Crank pin, Dressing down. 11 

Crankshaft bearing, Dressing down 11 
Main bearing, Dressing down. 11 


T 


Tank capacity, Gasoline. 8 

Thermostat—- 

Illustration of. 80 

Removal of. 80 

Thermostat valves— 

Adjustment of. 35 

Removal of. 81 

Throttle— 

Automatic. 39 

Pump (Carburetor). 39 

Timer [see Distributor and Timer] 

(Description). 22 

Timer [see Distributor and Timer] 
(Removal, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .100-103 

Contact points, Adjustment of . . . 23 

Timing ignition. 23 

Timing marks on flywheel. 12 

Timken bearings, Caution in adjust¬ 
ing. 53 

Tire air compressor (Removal, In¬ 
spection, Replacement).113-115 

Lubrication.157 

Tires, Storage of. 15 

Top, Storage of . 16 


(4) 









































































INDEX—Continued 


Page 

Transmission (Description). 41 

Transmission (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).121-123 

Bearing, Rear, Main shaft (Re¬ 
moval, Inspection, Replace¬ 
ment) .120-121 

Case (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .Ill 

Construction. 41 

Illustration.,..117 

Lubrication.157 

Shaft, Main.120-121 

Tread. 8 

U 

Universal joints (Description). 42 

Universal joints (Removal, Inspec¬ 
tion, Replacement).123-124 

Disassembling of.124 

Lubrication of.157 


V 

Valve— 

Pressure relief. 36 

Springs (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .91-92 

Valve and valve springs (Removal, 

Inspection, Replacement).91-92 

Valve stems, Lubrication of.157 


Page 

Valves, Engine. 12 

Cam slide, Adjustment of. 13 

Cam slides, Position of cams for 

adjustment of. 12 

Grinding. 14 

Placing cam in position. 13 

W 

Washing cars. 54 

Water, Adding to storage battery.. . 28 

Water pumps (Adjustments). 35 

Water pumps (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).80-81 

Packing glands. 35 

Strainers. 35 

Strainers (Removal, Inspection, 

Replacement).104-105 

Thermostat valves, Adjustment of 35 

Wheel base. 8 

Wheel bearings, Lubrication of ... . 157 

Wheels (Adjustments).51-53 

Wheels (Removal, Inspection, Re¬ 
placement) .140-142 

Alignment of front wheels. 52 

Bearings, Adjustment of frfnt 

wheel. 51 

Bearings, Adjustment of rear wheel 52 
Illustration rear wheel hub and 

bearings.141 

Lubrication of..157 

Wiring diagram. 19 


(5) 










































ILLUSTRATIONS 


Name Fig. Page 

Axle, Front: 

Arm, Spindle—Left. 44 131 

Arm, Spindle—Right. 43 130 

Axle—Inverted Front, End View. 46 133 

Axle—Inverted Front, Side View. 45 132 

Spindle—Left Front. 47 134 

Spindle—Right Front, Sectional View. 48 135 

Axle, Rear: 

Brake Rods. 17 48 

Brakes—Internal and External. 16 47 

Housing—Rear Axle, Side View.-. 42 128 

Housing—Rear Axle, Top View. 41 128 

Rear Axle, Sectional View. 15 43 

Clutch and Transmission: 

Clutch Control. 14 41 

Clutch and Transmission, Sectional View. 39 117 

Compressor, Tire Air—Sectional View. 38 114 

Cooling System: 

Cooling System. 10 33 

Strainer, Left-Hand Water—Removal of. 35 105 

Electrical System: 

Battery—Storage, Sectional View. 8 28 

Clutch—Motor Generator Driving, Rear View. 33 96 

Diagram—Circuit. 6 21 

Diagram—Wiring. 5 19 

Diagram of Connections for Charging Battery from 110 Volt D. C.. . 9 30 

Distributor and Timer, Sectional View. 34 101 

Motor Generator, Front View. 31 94 

Motor Generator, RearView. 32 95 

Motor Generator and Starting Mechanism. 4 17 

Timer. 7 23 

Engine: 

Diagram—General Lubrication. 54 156 

Engine—Cross Section of, Front View. 23 61 

Engine—Cross Section of, Side View. 22 56 

Firing Order. 1 12 

Flywheel, Showing Timing Marks. 2 12 

Lubricating System—Engine. 51 150 

Oil Filler, Pressure Regulator, Level Plug and Drain Plug. 52 152 

Pins, Rocker and Seat—Correct Positions for, in Riveting Chains .... 3 14 

Regulator—Oil Pressure, Sectional View. 53 154 

Rings, Piston—Removing. 26 74 

Rods, Forked Connecting—Method Employed in Testing Alignment of 28 84 

Rods, Straight Connecting—Method Employed in Testing Alignment of 29 84 

Rope—Location of, in Lifting Engine from Frame. 25 68 

Pump—Water, Sectional View. 27 80 

Slide—Cam, and Adjusting Nut. 30 91 

Sprockets and Chain—Cam Shaft Driving. 24 65 

Frame: 

Frame. 50 144 

Gasoline System: 

Automatic Throttle, Carburetor—Testing Spring of. 37 107 

Carburetor, Sectional View. 36 106 

Carburetor, Side View. 13 38 

Gasoline System. 12 37 

Valve—Air Pressure Relief, Sectional View. 11 36 

Steering Gear: 

Housing and Arm—Steering Gear. 19 51 

Steering Gear, Sectional View. 18 50 

Universal Joints: 

Universal Joints and Drive Shaft. 40 123 

Wheels: 

Bearings and Adjusting Nuts—Front Wheel. 20 51 

Bearings and Adjusting Nuts—Rear Wheel. 49 141 

Front Wheels—Diagram Showing Method of Aligning. 21 52 

(6) 




















































GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 


Do not use shellac on gaskets or on hose connections. Its use 
is unnecessary and makes practically impossible the removal of parts 
without injury. 

Before replacing gaskets make certain that they are in good condi¬ 
tion and that the surfaces which press against them are clean and in 
good condition. 

In removing sprockets, gears, collars, etc., do not tap them off, 
unless you have no suitable puller and are unable to procure one. If 
you are forced to tap off parts, do so carefully, using a lead hammer 
or a drift of soft brass. 

Use well fitting wrenches and only enough force to tighten parts 
properly. The amount of force required depends upon the size of the 
stud or cap screw and the length of the wrench. Do not tighten a 
nut or cap screw sufficiently to strain the parts. 

Select well fitting screw drivers in removing and replacing screws. 

The replacement of parts will be facilitated if a practice is made 
of observing the manner in which they are assembled, before taking 
them apart. 

If parts do not disassemble readily do not injure or break them by 
using too much force. Parts will disassemble easily when correct 
methods are employed and proper tools are used. 

Care should be exercised to prevent the loss or injury of parts 
removed. 

Lubricate parts which move upon one another with suitable lubri¬ 
cant before putting them together. This includes such parts as 
spring shackle bolts, brake rod pins and the like, as well as pistons, 
engine bearings, etc. 

Do not use waste in cleaning cylinders, pistons, bearings, gears, 
etc. Use cloth free from lint. 


GENERAL DATA 


ENGINE: 

Number of cylinders.8 

Bore of cylinders.3K inches 

Stroke.5 3d? inches 

Piston displacement.314 cu. in. 

Horse power (N. A. C. C. 

Rating).31.25 

Engine revolutions per mile (Transmission Direct Drive): 

Gear Ratio, Standard./ Tires 35 inches 2557 (approx.) 

Tires 34 inches 2632 (approx.) 


Crankshaft diameter.1 % inches 

Valve size.lf| inches 

Valve lift. ^ inch 

Carburetor size.1 H? inches 

Spark plug size.% inch x 18 


Gear Ratio, Low 


/ Tires 35 inches 2922 (approx.) 
\ Tires 34 inches 3008 (approx.) 


Engine Number: The number of the engine is stamped on the crankcase 
just back of the right-hand block of cylinders, on the left-hand side of the 
fanshaft housing and on the name plate attached to the front face of the 
dash. 


GEAR RATIOS: 

Standard. 4.437-1 

Low. 5.071-1 

Transmission: 

High.Direct 

Intermediate. 58.65% of direct 

Low. 32% of direct 

Reverse. 26.70% of direct 

Between Engine and Rear Wheels: 

Axle gear ratio, Standard : 

High. 4.437-1 

Transmission gear 3 Intermediate. 7.565-1 

Low. 13.866-1 

Reverse. 16.618-1 

Axle gear ratio, Low: 

( High. 5.071-1 

Transmission gear •{ Intermediate. 8.646-1 

I Low. 15.847-1 

[ Reverse. 18.993-1 


WHEEL BASE: 

Seven-Passenger, Phaeton, Four-Passenger, Roadster, Two- 

Passenger, Victoria and Brougham.125 inches 

Limousine, Imperial, Landaulet, Town Limousine, Town 

Landaulet and Suburban.132 inches 

Long Chassis.145 inches 


TREAD: 

All Cars 


56 inches 


GASOLINE TANK CAPACITY: 


Gallons: 

United States. 20 

Imperial. 16.67 

Liters. 75.70 


(8) 




































PART I 

ADJUSTMENTS 


ENGINE 

ADJUSTMENT OF CONNECTING ROD AND CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS 

Adjustment of Connecting Rod Bearings 

Remove the oil pan and baffle plate. (See “Removal” under “Oil 
Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78). 

The caps at the lower ends of the single connecting rods are adjust¬ 
able. Liners varying in thickness from .002 inch to .006 inch are placed 
between the caps and the rods when the engine is assembled. To 
readjust, remove these liners and substitute thinner ones of the proper 
thickness. 

These bearings should have from .0025 inch to .0035 inch play. 
Bearing trouble is probable if the clearance is less than .0025 inch. 

The crank pin bearings in the forked connecting rods are not 
adjustable. If there is more than .006 inch clearance between a 
bearing and the crank pin, or more than .015 inch end play in the 
bearing, a new bearing should be substituted. (See under “Fitting 
Crank Pin Bearings,” page 10). 

Adjustment of Main Crankshaft Bearings 

Remove the oil pan and the baffle plate. (See “Removal” under 
“Oil Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78). 

The three main bearings are provided with liners which are clamped 
between the crankcase and the bearing caps. 

To tighten a main bearing, proceed as follows: Remove the oil 
feed pipe connecting the bearing cap with the oil manifold. Remove 
the aluminum bearing cap with the lower half of the bearing and the 
liners. 

Replace the liners with liners which are less in thickness by an 
amount equal to the amount of “take-up” necessary. The clearance 
between the shaft and the bearings should be between .001 inch and 
.002 inch. Liners can be obtained from the Cadillac Motor Car 
Company varying in thickness by .001 inch. 

Carefully reduce the upper edges of the lower half of the bearing 
just enough to allow the aluminum bearing cap to clamp the new liners. 
This work must be done very accurately, as clearance between the 
halves of the bearing will cause an oil leak. 

The upper edges of the lower half of the bearing may be reduced 
by rubbing the bearing on a piece of fine emery cloth stretched tightly 
over a flat, machined, iron surface. 

(9) 



10 


ADJUSTMENTS 


Thoroughly clean the bearing, bearing cap and liners and oil the 
bearing surface before replacing. 

In replacing the bearing cap, tighten the bearing nuts firmly and 
lock with cotter pins. Also make sure that the union nuts on the 
oil pipe are tightened sufficiently to prevent leakage. 

If more than one bearing is removed at a time, care should be taken 
not to mix the liners, as they may not all be the same thickness. 

After replacing the oil pan, refill it with \ x /i gallons of suitable 
engine oil. Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended. 

FITTING CRANK PIN BEARINGS 

If the crank pins of the crankshaft are scored or out of round more 
than .003 inch they should be dressed down before used bearings are 
refitted, or new bushings are installed. (See under “Dressing Down 
Crankshaft Bearing Surfaces,” page 11). 

Refitting a Used Bearing 

If the babbitt is scored, rough, or shows only partial bearing on 
the crank pin, clean it up with a scraper. This work should be 
attempted only by workmen familiar with bearing scraping. The 
work must be done carefully to prevent an excessive flow of oil by the 
bearing. 

If, after completing the work, the clearance between the bearing 
and the crank pin exceeds .006 inch, a new bearing should be substituted. 

The end play in a crank pin bearing should not exceed .015 inch. 

Fitting a New Standard Size Bearing 

Crank pin bearings of standard size are reamed before shipment 
and should not be scraped unless the bearing surface becomes injured. 

If there is more than .006 inch clearance between a new standard 
size bearing and the crank pin, an undersize bearing should be fitted. 
Bearings reamed .005 inch undersize are furnished by the Cadillac 
Motor Car Company. 

The end play in a crank pin bearing should not exceed .015 inch. 

Fitting a New Undersized Bearing 

Crank pin bearings reamed .005 inch undersize are furnished by the 
Cadillac Motor Car Company for use where the clearance between a 
crank pin and a new standard size bearing exceeds .006 inch. 

The desired clearance between the bearing and the crank pin is 
from .002 inch to .003 inch. The clearance must in no case be less 
than .002 inch or more than .006 inch. 

Undersize bearings are reamed and should be scraped only in the 
event they clamp the crank pin, or the clearance between the pin and 
bearing is less than .002 inch. 




ADJUSTMENTS 


11 


FITTING MAIN CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS 

If the bearing surface is rough, scored, or shows only a partial 
bearing on the shaft, it should be cleaned up with a scraper. This work 
-should be attempted only by workmen who thoroughly understand 
bearing scraping. The work must be carefully done to prevent an 
excessive flow of oil by the bearing. 

When clamped in place the clearance between a main bearing and 
the shaft should be from .001 inch to .002 inch. 

After scraping the bearing halves reduce the edges, which come 
together, sufficiently to give the proper clearance between the bear¬ 
ing and the shaft. This may be done by rubbing the halves of the 
bearing over fine emery cloth stretched tightly over a surface plate. 

Replace the liners with liners of the proper thickness. (See under 
“Adjustment of Main Crankshaft Bearings/’ page 9). 

DRESSING DOWN CRANKSHAFT BEARING SURFACES 

Main Bearing Surfaces 

Crankshaft bearing surfaces should be smooth, free from scores 
and round within .003 inch. If not they should be dressed down. 

This work should be attempted only by workmen who thoroughly 
understand work of this kind. To get the best results the shaft should 
be removed from the engine and placed on V blocks before starting 
the work. 

Use a fine mill file and finish the work with fine emery cloth and 
oil. Make frequent tests with micrometers. 

After the shaft is in proper condition, refit the bearings in accordance 
with directions under “Fitting Main Crankshaft Bearings,’’ on this 
page. 

Crank Pin Surfaces 

Follow the directions under “Main Bearing Surfaces” in dressing 
down crank pins. 

If there is more than .006 inch clearance between a crank pin and 
the bearing after the work is completed a new bearing should be 
substituted. (See under “Fitting Crank Pin Bearings,” page 10). 





12 


ADJUSTMENTS 


FIRING ORDER 

The order in which the cylinders fire is indicated in Fig. 1. 


0 


CD©©© 


Fig. 1—Firing Order. 


TIMING MARKS ON FLYWHEEL 

The flywheel marks (see Fig. 2) are arranged in four groups, each 
group consisting of the following marks in order: 



Timing Marks. 


“INIS”—“Inlet setting” 

“IG|A”—“Ignition advance” 

“Q” _“Center” 

“EX |S”—“Exhaust setting” 
Each group of marks refers to two 
cylinders, the numbers of which are 
stamped one on each side of the “C” 
in that group. 

Complete instructions for using 
the “inlet setting” and “exhaust 
setting” marks are given below under 
“Positions of Cams for Adjustment 
of Cam Slides.” The ignition tim¬ 
ing is explained fully under “Timing 
Ignition,” page 23. 


ENGINE VALVES 

Positions of Cams for Adjustment of Cam Slides 

In poppet valve gasoline engines it is necessary for a cam roll to be 
on the circular surface of the cam when the cam slide operated by that 
cam is being adjusted. The shape of the circular portion of the cams 
in the Cadillac eight-cylinder engine is such that it is not sufficient 
for a cam roll simply to be on the circular surface of the cam. The 
cam roll must be on a certain small arc of the circular surface of the 
cam when the cam slide is being adjusted. 

As no two cams on the camshaft are in the same position at the 
same time, it is necessary, before adjusting each cam slide, to place the 
corresponding cam in the proper position by cranking the engine by 









ADJUSTMENTS 


13 


hand as described below. The cam slides cannot be properly adjusted 
with the cams in any but the correct positions. 

Placing Cam in Position 

To place a cam in position for properly adjusting the cam slide, 
proceed as follows: 

Open the compression relief cocks on the cylinder blocks and with 
the ignition switched off crank the engine slowly by hand in the direc¬ 
tion in which it runs until the piston in the cylinder in which the valve 
is located is at the end of the compression stroke, or in other words, on 
firing center. This may be determined by placing a finger over the 
compression relief cock while cranking the engine. When the piston 
is exactly on firing center the pointer attached to the crankcase will 
then be directly over the mark on the flywheel indicating “center” 
for that cylinder. 

Inlet Valve. If the valve operated by the cam slide is an inlet 
valve, select the first “INjS” to the left of the center mark and mark 
it with a piece of chalk. 

Crank the engine further by hand in the direction in which it runs 
until that “IN|S” is directly under the pointer. It will be necessary 
to crank the engine nearly a complete revolution. 

The cam is then in the correct position for adjusting the cam slide 
operating that inlet valve. (See under “Adjustment of Cam Slide.”) 

Exhaust Valve. If the valve operated by the cam slide is an 
exhaust valve, after cranking the engine to the proper firing center, 
select the first “EX|S” to the right of the center mark and mark it with 
a piece of chalk. 

Crank the engine further by hand in the direction in which it runs 
until this “EX|S” is under the pointer. 

Then crank the engine further one complete revolution until this 
“EX|S” is again directly under the pointer. 

The cam is then in the correct position for adjusting the cam slide 
operating that exhaust valve. (See under “Adjustment of Cam 
Slide.”) 

Adjustment of Cam Slide 

When the cam is in the proper position (see under “Positions of 
Cams for Adjustment of Cam Slides”), the clearance between the end 
of the valve stem “A,” Fig. 30, and the adjusting screw “B” in the 
cam slide “D” should be from .002 inch to .003 inch when the engine 
is cold. 

To adjust a cam slide, loosen the locking nut “C” and turn the 
adjusting screw “B.” 




14 


ADJUSTMENTS 


Tighten the locking nut “C” when the proper clearance has 
been obtained, taking care that in so doing the adjustment of the 
screw “B” is not disturbed. 

Grinding Valves 

Remove the valve. (See “Removal” under “Valves and Valve 
Springs,” page 91). 

It is a good plan to wrap soft string around the stem of the valve 
near the head. This will tend to prevent the grinding compound 
getting into the valve guide. 

In the absence of a good prepared grinding compound, make a 
paste of powdered glass or flour of emery, mixed with thin oil. 

Place the grinding compound on that portion of the valve which 
bears on the valve seat. Then replace the valve, and with a screw 
driver, or other suitable tool, rotate it back and forth about one-third 
revolution, with only a slight pressure on the tool. Lift the valve 
occasionally and turn it to a new position. Continue the grinding 
operation only until the valve and its seat show perfect bearing. 

Then thoroughly wash the valve, the valve chamber and the valve 
guide with kerosene or gasoline. Be very careful to leave none of 
the grinding compound in any part of the cylinder, as it will cause 
serious damage if it works into the cylinder bore or other parts of the 
engine; also remove the string from the valve stem. Replace the valve. 

After replacing the valve, retime it. (See under “Adjustment of Cam 
Slide,” page 13). Retiming is necessary as the amount of clearance 
between the valve and the adjusting screw in the cam slide is neces¬ 
sarily reduced during the grinding operation. 

RIVETING CHAINS 

Each joint of the chain contains two pins, as shown in Fig. 3; 
a seat pin “A,” which is ribbed, and a rocker pin “B,” which is plain. 
If a chain is removed, be very sure in replacing it that the joint pins 
are inserted as shown. 



Fig. 3—Correct Positions for Rocker and Seat Pins in Riveting Chains. 





ADJUSTMENTS 


15 


Bring the ends of the chain together on the larger sprocket. (See 
“Replacement” under “Camshaft Driving Chain” and “Fanshaft 
Driving Chain,” pages 65 and 66.) Insert the rocker pin and a used 
or extra seat pin to align the links. Clamp the new seat pin in a vise 
and rivet the small washer “C” on one end. 

Force the used seat pin out by inserting the new seat pin. Insert 
the new seat pin from the rear. In doing so be careful not to force 
out the rocker pin. Be sure to recover the used seat pin so that it will 
not get into the mechanism of the engine. 

After the new seat pin is in place, turn the engine so that the con¬ 
nection is mid-way between the sprockets. Then insert a riveting 
block between the crankcase wall and the inner end of the seat pin 
to be riveted, place the small washer on the end of the seat pin and 
carefully peen over the end of the pin. Remove the riveting block. 

If, in installing a chain, the rocker pin is inserted backwards 
it will cause a knock on the small sprocket which will quickly 
destroy the chain. It is absolutely essential that the joint pins be 
assembled correctly if the chain is to live and give quiet and satisfac¬ 
tory service. 

STORAGE 

Engine 

To prepare the engine for storage proceed as follows: 

Cover the radiator and run the engine at a speed which shows an 
ammeter reading of approximately 10 with all lights switched off 
until the engine is thoroughly warm. It usually requires from two to 
ten minutes to warm the engine. 

After the engine is hot, shut off the flow of gasoline to the carbure¬ 
tor and immediately the engine starts to slow down from a lean mix¬ 
ture inject from two to three tablespoonfuls of clean fresh engine oil 
into the primary air inlet at the right-hand side of the carburetor. 
This will stop the engine. 

Open the compression cocks. Inject from one to two tablespoon¬ 
fuls of clean fresh engine oil into each cylinder and close the cocks. 

Storage Battery 

(See under “Preparing Battery for Storage,” page 31.) 

Tires 

During winter storage it is best to remove the tires from the rims 
and keep the casings and tubes in a fairly warm atmosphere away 
from the light. It is best to inflate the tubes slightly after the tires 
have been removed to keep the tires in the position in which they are 
when inflated on the rim. 

If the tires are not removed from the car, and the car is stored in 




16 


ADJUSTMENTS 


a light place, it is best to cover the tires to protect them from strong 
light, which has a deteriorating effect on rubber. 

The greatest injury that can be done to tires when the car is stored 
is to allow the weight of the car to rest on them. If the tires are not 
removed the car should be blocked up so that no weight is borne by 
the tires and the tires partly deflated. 

Body and Top 

It is best to put the top up and cover the entire car to protect it 
from dust. 

Taking Car Out of Storage 

When the car is taken out of storage the following directions should 
be followed carefully in starting the engine: 

Open the compression cocks and inject from one to two tablespoon¬ 
fuls of clean fresh engine oil into each cylinder. 

Close the compression cocks and with the ignition turned off turn 
the engine over slowly a few revolutions by hand. 

If the engine is to be started by hand cranking, place the spark 
lever at the extreme left of the spark and throttle sector. If the 
starter is to be used, place the spark lever on that portion of the sector 
marked “Driving Range.” Open the gasoline valve at the tank and 
start the engine in the usual manner. 

Immediately the engine starts, run it at a speed which will show 
an ammeter reading of approximately 10 with all lights switched off, 
and push the auxiliary air lever down as far as possible without caus¬ 
ing the engine to stop, or a material reduction in engine speed. 

With the engine running, inject from two to three tablespoonfuls 
of clean fresh engine oil into the primary air inlet at the right-hand 
side of the carburetor. 

Push the auxiliary air valve lever all the way down as soon as the 
engine is warm enough to permit it. 

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 
GENERAL DESCRIPTION 

The Cadillac-Delco system is the single wire, single unit system. 
One side of the motor generator, storage battery, lamps, horn and 
ignition apparatus is connected to some part of the frame of the car 
or the engine. The other connections are made with copper wires 
or cables. 

MOTOR GENERATOR 

The motor generator serves both as a generator of current and as 
an electric motor for cranking the engine when starting. The principal 





ADJUSTMENTS 


17 


elements of the motor generator are an armature and a field. There 
are two windings on the armature and two in the field—one on the 
armature and one on the field are used when the motor generator is 
used as a generator and the other windings when it is used as a motor. 


Generator 

The motor generator, when acting as a generator, is driven at 
engine speeds by the fanshaft which, in turn, is driven by a silent chain 
from the camshaft at the front end of the engine. Thus driven, it 
delivers electrical energy for charging the storage battery and for 
operating the lights' ignition apparatus and horn. To prevent the 
voltage of the current generated from rising too high when the engine 
is running at high speeds, the third brush system of current regula¬ 
tion is employed. 



GENERATOR COMMUTATOR UNDER TH/S COVER 

MOTOR COMMUTATOR UNDER THIS COVER 
STARTER BUTTON 

NION ON ARMATURE SHAFT 

DLER GEARS CONTAINING 
OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH IN HUB 
TEETH CUT ON FLYWHEEL 


POSITIVE WIRE 
GROUNDED ON FRAME 


NEGATIVE WIRE TO MOTOR,GENERATOR 






Fig. h—Motor Generator and Starting Mechanism. 


Motor 

When acting as a motor, the sole function of the motor generator is 
to crank the engine. In starting, the first thing the operator does is 
to push down the ignition lever on the combination switch. This 














18 


ADJUSTMENTS 


closes the ignition circuit and the circuit between the storage battery 
and the generator windings on the motor generator, causing the arm¬ 
ature to revolve slowly. 

A ratchet clutch in the front end of the generator allows the arma¬ 
ture to rotate ahead of the driving shaft. The clicking noise that is 
heard when the ignition switch is turned on comes from this clutch. 

Next the operator pushes down the starter button. The first move¬ 
ment causes the starter gears to mesh with the teeth on the flywheel. 
The probability of the ends of the teeth striking and failing to mesh is 
overcome by the slow rotation of the armature which began as soon as 
the ignition was turned on. 

As the starter button is pushed further down, the circuit between 
the storage battery and the generator windings of the motor generator 
is broken. Upon the last movement of the starter button the circuit 
is closed between the storage battery and the motor windings on the 
motor generator, causing it to act as a powerful electric motor which 
rapidly cranks the engine. 

As the gear ratio between the armature shaft and the crankshaft 
is approximately 25 to 1, the armature would be driven at an excessively 
high rate of speed after starting the engine and before the operator let 
the starter button back if it were not for an over-running clutch in the 
hub of the idler gears between the flywheel and the armature shaft. 
The electric motor cranks the engine through this clutch, but after the 
engine has started and begins to run faster than the electric motor, the 
clutch slips. 

When the starter button is let up, as soon as the engine is running 
under its own power, the first movement of the button breaks the cir¬ 
cuit between the electric motor and the storage battery, a further 
movement causes the starter gears to slide out of mesh and the final 
movement completes the circuit between the generator and the storage 
battery, which was broken when the starter button was pushed down. 
The engine running and the circuit being closed between the storage 
battery and the generator windings of the motor generator, the genera¬ 
tion of current begins. 

Commutators 

Do not under any condition put oil of any kind on the commutators 
of the motor generator. 

Fitting Motor Generator Brushes 

If the brushes of the motor generator do not have a good full bear¬ 
ing on the commutators, the brushes should be refitted. To do so pro¬ 
ceed as follows: 




ADJUSTMENTS 


19 



Fig. 5—Wiring Diagram,. 


























































20 


ADJUSTMENTS 


Cut a strip of Number 00 sand paper slightly wider than the brushes. 
Pass it between the brushes and the commutator and at least one-half 
way around the commutator. Draw the sandpaper back and forth 
with sanded side against the brushes. 

Do not use emery cloth in fitting the brushes. 


LAMPS 

Focusing Headlamps 

The adjustment for focusing the headlamp bulb is near the top 
of the lamp and is accessible after removing the lamp door. 

To make the adjustment, run the car head on towards, and at right 
angles to, a high fence or building, and stop when within from fifteen 
to twenty feet from it. Then, with the tilting reflector in the straight 
ahead position, change the adjustment until the bulb is in the proper 
position. 

If in turning the screw to the right, the rays of light appear to spread 
out, it indicates that the bulb is too far back in the reflector and that 
it should be brought forward. To do this, turn the adjusting screw to 
the left until the proper rays are shown. 

If the adjusting screw be turned to the left and the rays appear to 
spread out, it indicates that the bulb is too far forward and it should 
be brought back. To do this, turn the adjusting screw to the right 
until the proper rays are shown. 

Cleaning Reflectors 

The reflectors in the head and side lamps are plated with pure silver. 
In polishing, extreme care must be used in selecting materials which 
will not scratch the silver. 

Powdered dry rouge and a chamois skin are recommended. If the 
reflectors are tarnished, moisten the rouge with alcohol, and apply with 
the chamois. Then polish with a dry chamois and rouge. 

The chamois should be soft and must be kept free from dust. Do 
not use the chamois for any other purpose. 


Lamp Bulbs 

Bulbs should have the correct voltage and candle power rating. 
The following is a table of voltage and candle power ratings: 


Lamps 

Head. 

Side. 

Speedometer. 

Tail. 

Clock. 

Tonneau. 

Portable. 

Dome, enclosed cars.. . 
Quarter, enclosed cars 


Voltage 

7 

8 
4 
4 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 


Candle Power 
18 
6 
2 
2 
2 
2 
6 
6 
2 













DISTRIBUTOR HEAD 
TOSPARrt PLUGS 


ADJUSTMENTS 


21 


STORAGE 



DISTINCT CIRCUITS 



















































































































22 


ADJUSTMENTS 


IGNITION SYSTEM 

General Description 

The ignition system embodies the following elements: A source of 
current, the generator, or at low speeds, the storage battery; an igni¬ 
tion timer, which interrupts the low tension current at the proper 
instant to produce a spark in the high tension circuit; an induction 
coil, transforming the primary current of six volts into one of sufficient 
voltage to jump between the points of the spark plugs; a condenser, 
which assists the induction coil to raise the voltage, and which protects 
the contact points of the ignition timer from burning; and a high ten¬ 
sion distributor which directs the distribution of the high tension cur¬ 
rent to the spark plugs in the respective cylinders. 

Distributor and Timer 

The distributor and timer, Fig. 34, are carried on the fanshaft hous¬ 
ing and are driven by the fanshaft through spiral gears. 

The distributor consists of a cap or stationary head of insulating 
material and a rotor of the same material which turns with the timer 
shaft. The distributor head carries one contact in the center and eight 
additional contacts placed at equal distances about the center. (Only 
two of these contacts are shown in Fig. 34.) The center contact is con¬ 
nected to the high tension terminal on the ignition coil. The eight 
remaining contacts are connected to the spark plugs in the cylinders. 
The center contact is provided with a spring plunger which is in con¬ 
stant communication with a plate on the rotor. This plate carries at 
its outer end a contact button. As the rotor revolves, the contact 
button slides over the eight outer contacts in the distributor head, 
consecutively completing the high tension circuit to each of the spark 
plugs from the ignition coil. 

The timer, by which the low tension current is interrupted at the 
proper time to produce the spark, is beneath the rotor. An eight lobed 
cam “J,” Fig. 7, on the timer shaft, operates two contact arms “C” 
and “0.” As the cam revolves, these arms alternately complete and 
break the primary circuit. The cam is held in place by the lock screw 
“I.” 

Two sets of timer contact points are provided. The object is to 
distribute over two sets the current which would otherwise pass through 
one. This greatly lessens wear and burning of the points. 

The spark timing is automatically controlled by a centrifugal gover¬ 
nor which advances or retards the position of the timer cam relative to 
the driving shaft, as the engine speed increases or decreases. A spark 
lever at the steering wheel is provided, however, by which the timing 
may be still further advanced or retarded. This spark lever is con¬ 
nected to the manual control lever at the left of the distributor housing. 





ADJUSTMENTS 


23 


Cleaning Distributor Rotor Button Track 

If the track in the distributor head, against which the rotor button 
presses, requires cleaning, do not use sandpaper or emery cloth. Clean 
with a piece of cloth moistened with vaseline, then polish with a dry 
cloth. 

Adjustment of Timer Contact Points 

Remove the distributor rotor (see “Removal” under “Distributor 
Rotor,” page 99). 



Fig. 7 — Timer. 

Crank the engine by hand until the contact arms “0” and “C,” 
Fig. 7, are directly on top of lobes of the cam “J.” Then adjust the 
contact points at “E” and “F” so that they stand twenty thousandths 
of an inch apart. Both sets of contact points should be adjusted 
exactly alike. 

Do NOT FILE OR GRIND THE CONTACT POINTS. To clean the points 
remove them and simply rub them over an oil stone two or three times. 
Then replace and adjust, following instructions given. 

It is a good plan, after adjusting the timer contact points, to 
check the ignition timing. (See under “Timing Ignition,” on this 
page.) 

Timing Ignition 

Unless the timer contact points are in proper adjustment they 
should be readjusted before proceeding to time the ignition. 

To time the ignition proceed as follows: 

Move the spark lever to the extreme left on the sector; open the 
compression relief cocks on the cylinder blocks, and crank the engine 








24 


ADJUSTMENTS 


by hand until the piston in number one cylinder is on firing center. 
(Number one cylinder is the one nearest the radiator in the left-hand 
block of cylinders). 

Next remove the distributor head, also the rotor (see “Removal” 
under “Distributor Rotor,” page 99), and loosen the lock screw “I,” 
Fig. 7, just enough to allow the cam “J” to be turned by hand after 
the rotor is fitted. (The lock screw should not be loosened enough to 
allow the cam to turn on the shaft when the engine is cranked by hand.) 

Then replace the rotor and turn it by hand until the distributor 
brush in the rotor is directly under the terminal marked “No. 1” on 
the distributor head. 

Replace the distributor head, and move the spark lever to the 
extreme right on the sector. (Full advance.) 

Then switch on ignition; hold the high tension wire to the spark 
plug in number one cylinder about one-eighth of an inch away from the 
cylinder casting and crank the engine slowly by hand in the direction 
in which it runs. Stop cranking immediately a spark occurs between 
the wire and the casting. (It will be necessary to crank the engine 
nearly two complete revolutions before the spark occurs.) 

If the cam “J” is properly set, a spark will occur when a point on 
the flywheel one and twenty-one thirty-seconds inches in advance of 
the center line for number one cylinder is directly under the pointer 
attached to the crankcase of the engine. This point for each cylinder 
is marked on the flywheel by the letters “I G A.” (See Fig. 2.) 

If the spark occurs before this, rotate the cam “J” slightly in a 
counter-clockwise direction to correct the adjustment. If the spark 
occurs later than this, rotate the cam slightly in a clockwise direction. 

After the adjustment has been properly made, lock the cam securely 
to the distributor shaft by the lock screw “I.” 

After locking the adjustment it is a good plan to check the timing 
by fully retarding the spark lever; in other words, moving it to the 
extreme left on the sector, holding the high tension wire to the spark 
plug in number one cylinder about one-eighth of an inch away from the 
cylinder casting, and again cranking the engine slowly by hand in the 
direction in which it runs, stopping immediately a spark occurs. If 
the ignition is set properly the spark will occur under these conditions 
when the center line on the flywheel for number one cylinder is directly 
under the pointer attached to the crankcase, or has passed the pointer. 

Caution —Do not set the ignition so that the spark occurs before 
center with the spark lever at the extreme left on the sector. 

Resistance Unit 

The resistance unit is a coil of resistance wire wound on a porcelain 
spool as shown in Fig. 7. Under ordinary conditions it remains 





ADJUSTMENTS 


25 


cool and offers little resistance to the passage of current. If for any 
reason the ignition circuit remains closed for any considerable length 
of time with the engine not running, the current passing through the 
coil heats the resistance wire, increasing its resistance to a point where 
very little current passes, and insuring against a waste of current from 
the battery and damage to the ignition coil and timer contacts. 

Ignition Condenser 

The purpose of the condenser in the ignition system is to protect 
the timer contact points against the corrosive action of sparking and 
to utilize the tendency to spark to build up a higher voltage in the 
high tension circuit than would otherwise be obtained. 

The ignition condenser is mounted on the right-hand side of the 
distributor housing in a waterproof casing “D.” (See Fig. 7.) It 
consists of layers of tinfoil separated by sheets of paraffin paper. Alter¬ 
nate layers of tinfoil are connected to opposite terminals. The cur¬ 
rent does not pass through the condenser and on test the terminals 
should show open circuit. 

There are no adjustments in connection with the condenser. 

Ignition Coil 

The ignition coil serves to transform the low 7 voltage current in 
the primary circuit to a current of high voltage in the secondary circuit. 
The coil consists of a primary winding of coarse wire wound around 
an iron core in comparatively few turns, and a secondary winding of 
many turns of fine wire, also the necessary insulation and terminals 
for wiring connections. 

Spark Plugs 

In order to get the best results the porcelains of the spark plugs 
should be clean and the points should be .023 inch apart. If the points 
are too close, the engine will miss under a light load and when idling. 
If the points are too far apart, it will miss under heavy loads and when 
the throttle is opened quickly for acceleration. 

CIRCUIT BREAKERS 

The circuit breakers are mounted on the inner face of the dash. 
These are protective devices which take the place of fuses. 

The circuit breakers prevent the discharging of the storage battery, 
damage to the wiring to the horn, lights and the ignition apparatus, 
or to any of these parts in case any of the circuits to or in these parts 
become grounded. 

As long as only a normal amount of current is used for horn, lights 
and ignition the circuit breakers will not open. In the event of a 
ground, an abnormally heavy current is conducted through one of 









26 


ADJUSTMENTS 


the circuit breakers, thus producing strong magnetism which attracts 
the armature and opens the contact. This cuts the flow of current. 

The circuit breaker protecting the horn, handy lamp and tonneau 
lamp circuit is known as a lockout circuit breaker. In case of a ground 
in any of these circuits, the breaker opens and remains open until the 
ground is removed. 

The circuit to the ignition apparatus and remainder of the lights 
is protected by a vibrating circuit breaker. In case of a ground in 
any of the circuits protected by the vibrating circuit breaker, the 
breaker will start to vibrate and will continue to vibrate until the 
ground is removed. 


GENERATION OF CURRENT 

Ammeter 

When the engine is not running and the lights are turned on, the 
ammeter, which is located on the instrument board, indicates on the 
“Discharge” side of the dial the amount of current being drawn from 
the storage battery for this purpose. When the ignition switch is 
turned on the ammeter indicates, in addition, the current used in 
slowly rotating the armature of the motor generator. When the starter 
button is pushed down current is no longer required for slowly rotat¬ 
ing the armature of the motor generator. The ammeter then indicates 
only the current used for the ignition and lights (if turned on). The 
ammeter does not indicate the amount of current used in the cranking 
operation. 

Before the engine is running fast enough to generate sufficient 
current to equal the current demand, the ammeter indicates on the 
“Discharge” side the amount of current being drawn from the storage 
battery. When the engine has attained a speed sufficient to generate 
current to more than equal the demand, the ammeter indicates on 
the “Charge” side the excess current which passes to the storage bat¬ 
tery and recharges it. 

Ordinarily, with all lights switched off, sufficient current is gene¬ 
rated to start recharging the battery when the car is operated in high 
gear at speeds between four and six miles per hour and, of course, at 
much lower speeds when the car is operated in low or intermediate 
gear. With all lights turned on sufficient current is generated to take 
care of the requirements at a speed of ten to fifteen miles per hour and 
at speeds greater than this the surplus current passes through the 
storage battery and recharges it. In other words, the ammeter indi¬ 
cates the rate at which the storage battery is being charged or dis¬ 
charged. 

To determine the total output of the generator, turn off all the lights 







ADJUSTMENTS 


27 


and add the amount of current used for ignition, i. e., two to three 
amperes, to the ammeter reading. 

Current Regulation 

The generating capacity of the generator is regulated by means of 
a third brush on the generator commutator. (See Fig. 31.) The 
position of this brush relative to the other two generator brushes 
determines the maximum output of the generator, the length of the 
brush arm being adjustable. The brush arm is properly adjusted 
when the car is assembled and should not require readjustment unless 
its position is altered. To determine whether readjustment is neces¬ 
sary, proceed as follows: 

Start the engine in the usual manner. With all the lights turned 
off slowly increase the speed of the engine by means of the hand throttle 
lever, meanwhile observing the hand of the ammeter on the instrument 
board. (Do not race the engine. There is no worse abuse, and it is 
unnecessary in this adjustment to run the engine faster than 1500 
revolutions per minute.) The current indicated by the ammeter 
will increase with the speed of the engine to a point between 950 and 
1200 revolutions per minute, and will then decrease. If the amount 
of current indicated by the ammeter at the maximum point is greater 
than 18 amperes, stop the engine and readjust the third brush as fol¬ 
lows: 

Remove the generator front end top cover. Loosen the two screws 
which hold together the two parts of the third brush arm and shorten 
the brush arm. After moving the third brush to an approximately 
correct position, press the brush down so that it makes even contact 
with the commutator, and hold it down while tightening the screws 
in the brush arm. The purpose of this is to have the curvature of 
the end of the brush conform as closely as possible to that of the com¬ 
mutator. 

After setting the third brush, refit it to the commutator. (See 
“Fitting Motor Generator Brushes/’ page 18). 

Start the engine. Again slowly accelerate the engine and check 
the maximum current. If it is still greater than 18 amperes, reset 
the third brush and sand it in again. 

If the maximum current indicated by the ammeter is less than 18 
amperes and the specific gravity of the battery repeatedly shows that 
the battery is not being properly charged, lengthen the brush arm. 
Do not, however, lengthen the brush arm unless the condition of the 
battery makes it necessary and under no circumstances adjust it so 
that the ammeter indicates a maximum current of more than 18 
amperes with all lights turned off. A greater amount of current may 
result in serious injury to the motor generator. 




28 


ADJUSTMENTS 


STORAGE BATTERY 
Adding Water to Storage Battery 

The acid solution in the storage battery must cover the plates, and 
should be even with the bottom of the filling tubes, (See Fig. 8.) 
Add water to bring up the level. Do not add acid. 



Fig. 8—Storage Battery, Sectional View. 


To remove a filling plug, turn it as far as possible in the counter¬ 
clockwise direction, then lift it straight up. To replace, hold it so that 
the large arrow is perpendicular to the center line of the car, set the 
plug in place and turn it in the clockwise direction until tight. 

Water for filling the battery must be pure. Distilled water, melted 
artificial ice or fresh rain water are suitable for this purpose. If rain 
water is used, it should not be allowed to come in contact with any 
metal. It should not be caught from a metal roof or in a metal recep¬ 
tacle. 

Never keep the water in a metal container, such as a metal bucket 
or can. It is best to get a bottle of distilled water from a druggist or 












ADJUSTMENTS 


29 


from an ice plant. The whole point is to keep metal particles out of 
the battery. Spring water, well water or hydrant water from iron pipes 
generally contains iron and other metals in solution, which will ulti¬ 
mately cause trouble if used. 

Replacing Acid Lost by Spilling 

If any acid solution has been spilled or has leaked from a cell, replace 
the loss with freshly mixed solution and follow with an overcharge by 
running the engine for several hours or by charging the battery from an 
outside source. (See Fig. 9. Also see under “Personal Danger of Run¬ 
ning Engine in Closed Garage,” page 39.) 

The specific gravity of the acid solution used for replacing the loss 
should be the same as that of adjacent cells. This can be determined 
by the use of an hydrometer syringe. 

The acid solution may be prepared by mixing chemically pure sul¬ 
phuric acid, which has a specific gravity of 1.840, and distilled water. 
The proportion for an acid solution having a specific gravity of 1.280 
is one part of chemically pure acid and three parts (by volume) of 
distilled water. The acid must always be poured slowly into the water. 
Do not pour the water into the chemically pure acid. 

If, after mixing the acid solution as described above, a solution of a 
lower specific gravity is desired, it may be prepared by adding addi¬ 
tional water to the mixture. But do not under any conditions pour 
water into the chemically pure acid. 

Charging from an Outside Source 

It is necessary that the charging be done with direct current. The 
simplest method when there is 110 or 120 volt direct current available, 
is to connect eight 110 volt, 32 candlepower, 100 watt carbon lamps in 
parallel with each other and in series with the battery to be charged, 
this combination giving approximately the proper charging rate—8 
amperes. The positive terminal of the battery must be connected to 
the positive side of the charging circuit and the negative terminal to 
the negative side. Very serious injury to the battery will result if con¬ 
nected in the reverse direction. The terminals of the battery are stamped 
“Pos.” and “Neg.” 

To determine the polarity of the charging circuit, if a suitable volt¬ 
meter is not at hand, dip the ends of the two wires “A” and “B” (Fig. 
9) into a glass of water in which a teaspoonful of salt has been dissolved, 
care being taken to keep the wires at least an inch apart. When the 
current is turned on, fine bubbles of gas will be given off from the 
negative wire. 

The diagram (Fig. 9) illustrates just how the connection should be 
made. The charge should be continued until all the cells have been 







30 


ADJUSTMENTS 



“gassing” or bubbling freely for five hours, and there is no further rise 
in the voltage of the battery or specific gravity of the acid solution over 
the same period. A battery in good condition in a discharged state 
will require about ten hours of re-charging. If it has stood in a dis¬ 
charged condition for several weeks, it will require from twenty-five 
to fifty hours’ charging—all depending upon the condition of the bat¬ 
tery and the length of time it has stood discharged. 

If only alternating current is available, a current rectifier must be 
used. Consult your city electrician regarding this matter. 

Caution —Never run the engine with the storage battery discon- 















































ADJUSTMENTS 


31 


nected, or while it is off the car. Very serious damage to the motor 
generator may result from such action. 

Preparing Battery for Storage 

When a car is stored for some time the level of the acid solution 
should be even with the bottom of the filling tubes. (See under “Add¬ 
ing Water to Storage Battery,” page 28.) If water is added it should 
be added just before the last time the car is used so that it will be 
thoroughly mixed with the acid solution. When the car is stored, 
the specific gravity of the acid solution should register from 1.270 to 
1.290. In this condition there is no danger of the acid solution freezing 
during cold weather. The specific gravity of water is 1.000 and water 
freezes at 32 degrees F. above zero. 

Unless the battery is fully charged, or nearly so, during freezing weather, 
it is probable that the acid solution in the battery will freeze and cause 
extensive damage. 

The following is a table of the freezing temperatures of sul¬ 
phuric acid and water solutions of specific gravities from 1.050 to 
1.300: 


Specific Gravity 

Freezing Temperature 

(Hydrometer Reading) 

(Degrees Fahr.) 

1.050 

+27° 

1.100 

+ 18° 

1.150 

+ 5° 

1.164 

0° 

1.200 

—17° 

1.250 

—61° 

1.275 to 1.300 

—90° 


The battery should be charged every two months during the 
“out of service” period, either by running the engine or charging 
from an outside source (Fig. 9). If neither of the above is possible, 
the battery can be allowed to stand without charging during the 
winter provided the specific gravity of the acid solution registers from 
1.270 to 1.290 at the time the car is laid up. Much better results 
and longer life from the battery will be obtained by giving the 
periodic charges. 

The wires of the battery should be disconnected during the “out 
of service” period, as a slight leak in the wiring will discharge the 
battery. 

Placing Battery in Service Again 

Before putting the battery into service again, inspect it and add 
water, if necessary. In placing the battery on the car, care should be 
taken not to tighten the hold-down bolts too tight. If the battery 
has not been kept charged during the winter, it will be advisable 
to give it a fifty-hour charge at a four-ampere rate from an outside 





32 


ADJUSTMENTS 


source before putting it into service again. Make sure that the 
terminals are free from corrosion and that good connections of the 
wires are made. 

The corrosion, which is a greenish deposit, can be removed from the 
bolts and terminals by’placing them in a solution of water and bicar¬ 
bonate of soda (cooking soda). 

The corrosion can be removed from the posts by saturating a 
piece of cloth with the solution and wiping them off. Do not allow 
any of the solution to get into the cells of the battery. 

After the parts are free from corrosion they should be washed in 
warm water, and a light coat of heavy grease or vaseline applied. 

If the battery has received periodic charges, it will not be necessary 
to give it any special attention other then to fill it to the proper height 
with distilled water. After the car has been driven for a number of 
hours, read the specific gravity of the acid solution with the hydrometer 
syringe. It should register from 1.270 to 1.290 if the battery is fully 
charged. 

Sediment 

The sediment which gradually accumulates in the bottom of the 
jars should be removed before it reaches the bottom of the plates, as 
it is very harmful to the battery. The need of cleaning may be deter¬ 
mined by inspection. Its necessity is indicated by lack of capacity, 
excessive evaporation of the acid solution and excessive heating when 
charging. When a battery requires removal of sediment, better 
results follow if the work is done at a place where they are thoroughly 
familiar with storage battery practice. 

Exide Depots and Sales Offices 

The Electric Storage Battery Company, whose general offices and 
works are at Alleghany Avenue and 19th Street, Philadelphia, Pa., 
has service stations in towns of any considerable size where battery 
repair work is done, as well as sales offices and Exide battery depots 
in a number of the larger cities of the country where complete assem¬ 
bled batteries and repair parts are carried in stock. For the location 
of the nearest Exide depot or service station write the Electric Storage 
Battery Company, at Philadelphia. 

COOLING SYSTEM 
ANTI-FREEZING SOLUTION 

The radiator condenser makes it possible to use with safety an 
anti-freezing solution of denatured or wood alcohol and water. Do 
not use a solution containing calcium chloride, as this is injurious to 
the metal parts of the cooling system. 




ADJUSTMENTS 


33 


The capacity of the cooling system is five apd one-quarter gallons. 
The condenser should contain an additional three quarts, making a 
total of six gallons. 

The following are the freezing temperatures of denatured alcohol 
and water solutions of various proportions. 


Specific Gravity 


Denatured Alcohol 

Water 

Freezing Temperature 

(Hydrometer 

(% by volume) 

(% by volume) 

(degrees Fahr.) 

reading) 

20% 

80% 

+13° 

.974 

30% 

70% 

— 3° 

.964 

40% 

60% 

—20° 

.953 

50% 

50% 

—34° 

.936 


It is a good plan occasionally to draw out a sample of the solution 
in the radiator and to test its specific gravity with a hydrometer 
graduated between the limits of the above table. 

Caution— Don’t put water into the cooling system during freez¬ 
ing weather. Use a good anti-freezing solution. Water will freeze 
even though the engine be run continuously. 



Fig. 10—Cooling System. 













34 


ADJUSTMENTS 


FILLING AND DRAINING THE COOLING SYSTEM 
Filling the Cooling System 

Fill the cooling system with clean water, during warm weather, 
and with a suitable anti-freezing solution during freezing weather. 
(See under “Anti-Freezing Solution.”) 

To fill the cooling system after it has been drained, replace the 
drain plugs “H,” Fig. 10, in the water pumps, close the drain cocks 
“K” in the cylinder blocks and turn the shafts “L” on the water pumps 
so that the indicators on the ends of the shafts point up. The shafts 
may be turned in either direction. 

Then remove the filler cap “W” from the top of the radiator and fill 
the cooling system. Replace the filler cap and screw it down firmly. 
This is necessary, to insure the proper operation of the condenser. 

After the cooling system is filled, turn the shafts “L” on the water 
pumps so that the indicators on the ends of the shafts point down. 
These indicators should point up when filling or draining the cooling 
system and down at all other times. 

The cooling system should be full or nearly so. When it is necessary 
to add only a small amount of liquid to bring up the level, it is not 
necessary to turn the shafts “L” on the water pumps, but simply to 
remove the radiator filler cap. 

When the cooling system is cold, the condenser should be one-half 
full of the same liquid as used in the radiator. To add liquid to the 
condenser, take up the removable floor board and remove the filler 
cap “V” at the top of the condenser. Any excess liquid which may 
accumulate in the condenser should be drained off at “R,” Fig. 10, 
and poured back into the radiator. 

Draining the Cooling System 

To drain the cooling system, remove the drain plugs “H,” Fig. 10, 
from the water pumps and turn the shafts “L” on the water pumps so 
that the indicators on the ends of the shafts point up. The shafts 
“L” may be turned in either direction. Then open the drain cocks 
“K” in the cylinder blocks. 

To drain the condenser remove the drain plug “R” in the pipe 
leading from the bottom of the condenser. 

CLEANING THE COOLING SYSTEM 

Run the engine with the radiator covered until the liquid in the 
cooling system is boiling hot. Then turn the shafts “L,” Fig. 10, on 
the water pumps so that the indicators on the ends of the shafts point 
up. 

Shut off the engine and immediately remove the drain plugs “H” 
from the water pumps and open the drain cocks “K” in the cylinder 




ADJUSTMENTS 


35 


blocks. (Bear in mind in removing the drain plugs “H” that the liquid 
is scalding hot.) Remove the drain plug “R” in the pipe leading 
from the bottom of the condenser. 

If an alcohol anti-freezing solution is drawn off, part of it may be 
used again if the sediment is allowed to settle. In case it is used 
again its specific gravity should be tested with an hydrometer, after 
it has thoroughly cooled. 

When the liquid has drained off, replace the drain plugs “II,” 
close the drain cocks “K” and fill the cooling system with clean, hot 
water. Then repeat the operations outlined above. 

If in draining the second time, the water is very dirty, it may be 
desirable to repeat the flushing operation a third time, using a solu¬ 
tion of sal-soda. If the sal-soda solution is used, be sure that it is 
drained out and the cooling system flushed again with clear water. 

The sal-soda solution should not be allowed to get on the finish 
of the hood or radiator. 

During freezing weather be sure to refill with a suitable anti-freez¬ 
ing solution. 

WATER PUMPS 

Water Pump Packing Glands 

To tighten the glands of the water pumps first remove the splash 
pan under the engine, then turn the packing gland “0,” Fig. 27, in the 
direction in which the wheels rotate when the car is moving backward. 

To repack water pumps it is necessary to first remove them. (See 
“Removal of Pump” under “Water Pumps,” page 80). Repack with 
Cadillac packing. 

In tightening the glands, tighten them only sufficiently to prevent 
leakage. Tightening them further causes unnecessary friction on the 
pump shaft. 

Strainers 

The strainer in each radiator outlet must be clean. To remove, see 
“Removal” under “Water Pump Strainers,” page 104. 

Adjustment of Thermostat Valves 

The thermostat valves “C,” Fig. 27, are screwed onto the threaded 
stem of the thermostatic member “D” and are held in place by a 
slotted nut “M” in the center of the valve. The valves are adjusted when 
the car is assembled and no further attention should be required. In 
the event that the adjustment has been altered, proceed as follows 
in making a readjustment: 

Drain the cooling system. (See under “Draining the Cooling 
System,” page 34.) Disconnect the hose “B” and the pipe “A” at 
the pump. Remove the four small screws in the cap to which the hose 
and pipe were attached and remove the cap. 





36 


ADJUSTMENTS 


Turn the shaft “L” so that the indicator on the end of the shaft 
points in a horizontal direction. With a screw-driver loosen the slotted 
locking nut “M”. Then adjust the valve until it just seats without 
placing any tension on the thermostatic member “D.” Hold the valve 
in this position and tighten the slotted adjusting nut. 

Replace the cap and connect the hose “B” and the pipe “A.” 
Turn the shaft “L” so that the indicator points up and fill the cooling 
system. After filling the cooling system, turn the indicator down, 
regardless of weather conditions. 

GASOLINE SYSTEM 
PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE 

A pressure relief valve is connected in the air line of the gasoline 
system for the purpose of preventing excessive pressure. It is attached 
to the left-hand side of the frame under the front floor boards and is 
adjusted to release if a pressure of four pounds should be reached. As 
the pump at the front of the engine is designed to furnish a pressure of 
considerably less than four pounds, it is evident that the relief valve is 
not intended to release under normal conditions. The relief valve is 
intended to operate only in case higher pressures result from the use of 
gasoline, such as “casing-head” gasoline, containing highly evaporative 
fractions. 

If the pressure gauge on the instrument board shows a pressure of 
more than four pounds the relief valve should be readjusted. Or, if it 
is found impossible to maintain sufficient pressure to insure flow of 
fuel to the carburetor, this condition may indicate need for readjust¬ 
ment of the valve. 

As low pressure may also be caused by leakage of air at the gasoline 
tank filler cap or at the piping connections, or by the presence of dirt 
on the needle valve “D,” Fig. 11, or its seat, 
do not readjust the relief valve without mak¬ 
ing certain that the low pressure is due to the 
valve releasing and not to these other causes. 

To readjust the pressure relief valve 
remove the cap screw “A” by which the 
relief valve is attached to the side bar and 
spring the piping so that access may be had 
to the nut “C” and screw “B” underneath 
the relief valve. Loosen the hexagonal 
gland nut “C.” Then turn the hollow, 
slotted screw “B” in the clockwise direction 
if the pressure at which the valve releases 
is too low; or in the counter-clockwise direction if the valve releases 
at too high a pressure. Tighten the gland nut “C.” 


Vww,__ 


1 n i~> D 



L " JUJ 0'''C 




Fig. 11—Air Pressure Relief 
Valve, Sectional View. 


















ADJUSTMENTS 


37 


Check the results of the adjustment by raising the pressure with the 
hand pump. (Less pumping will be required if the tank is full or 
nearly so.) If it is found possible to raise the pressure above four 
pounds on the gauge, or if the maximum pressure obtainable is less 
than four pounds, the adjusting screw “B” should be adjusted again. 

After the adjustment has been correctly made, make sure that the 
gland nut “C” is tight. 



CARBURETOR 


-STRAINER 

CATCH BASIN--- 

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE 


■—GASOLINE LINE 
Jp *—GASOLINE TANK 
•SETTLING CHAMBER 
-drain plug 


DRAIN PIPES' 


SETTLING CHAMBER 
arid STRAINER 


FILLER CAP 

GASOLINE GAUGE 
SHUT-OFF VALVE. 


PRESSURE 

HAND AIR COMPRESSOR 

ON INSTRUMENT BOARD 


STRAINER CAMSHAFT AIR COMPRESSOR 


Fig. 12—Gasoline System . 

SETTLING CHAMBERS AND STRAINERS 

The gasoline system is protected by a settling chamber at the 
bottom of the gasoline tank, a strainer at the top of the tank, a strainer 
and a settling chamber under the front floor boards, and a strainer at 
the carburetor. These settling chambers and strainers must be clean. 

CARBURETOR 

Adjustment of Carburetor 

The carburetor should not be tampered with unless it needs adjust¬ 
ment. Good carburetor action cannot be expected until the engine is 
thoroughly warmed up. This is particularly true during cold weather. 
Imperfect carburetor action while the engine is cold does not indicate 
that the carburetor requires adjustment, and carburetor adjustment 
should not be made under these conditions. 

Before changing any of the carburetor adjustments be sure it is the 
carburetor which requires attention. 

When it is certain that the carburetor requires adjusting, proceed 
as follows: 

Method of Adjustment 

Open the throttle about two inches on the sector at the steering 
wheel. Place the spark lever in the “Driving Range” on the sector and 

















38 


ADJUSTMENTS 


start the engine. If the engine is cranked by hand the spark lever 
should be placed at the extreme left on the sector. 

Run the engine until the water jacket on the intake manifold is hot. 

Move the spark lever to the extreme left on the sector and the 
throttle lever to a position which leaves the throttle in the carburetor 
slightly open. Adjust the air valve screw “A,” Figure 13, to a point 
which produces the highest engine speed. Turning the screw “A” 
in a clockwise direction increases the proportion of gasoline to air in the 
mixture, and vice versa. 



Fig. 13 — Carburetor, Side View. 

“Close’ ’ the throttle (move it to the extreme left on the sector) and 
adjust the throttle stop screw “B” to a point which causes the engine 
to run at a speed of about 300 revolutions per minute. The spark lever 
should be at the extreme left on the sector when this adjustment is 
made. 

With the spark and throttle levers at the extreme left on the sector, 
adjust the air valve screw “A” to a point which produces the highest 
engine speed. 

Open the throttle until the shutter attached to the right-hand end 
of the throttle shaft just covers the slot in the carburetor body. Then 
adjust the screw “G” to a point which produces the highest engine 
speed or to a point where the engine slows down slightly from a lean 
mixture. Turning the screw “G” in a clockwise direction increases the 
proportion of gasoline to air in the mixture, and vice versa. 

In making the adjustment during very cold weather when a slightly 
richer mixture is desirable, it may be found best to turn the adjusting 
screw “G” further in a clockwise direction. 






ADJUSTMENTS 


39 


Setting of Carburetor Float 

To determine if the float is set correctly, remove the carburetor 
from the engine and the float from the carburetor. (See under “Car¬ 
buretor,” page 105.) Hold the carburetor upside down. Under these 
conditions dimension “A,” Fig. 36, should be y 2 inch. 

The setting may be corrected by bending slightly the arm to which 
the float is attached. 

Throttle Pump 

The rod “Y,” Fig. 36, is adjusted at the factory and should require 
no further adjustment. If the adjustment is changed the rod should 
be readjusted so that its upper end is flush with the upper face of the 
arm to which it is attached. 

Automatic Throttle 

To determine if the spring which controls the automatic throttle is 
in proper adjustment, proceed as follows: Remove the carburetor. 
(See “Removal” under “Carburetor,” page 105.) In the absence of 
the tool (No. 67327) furnished by the Cadillac Motor Car Company 
for making this test, bend a piece of No. 14 copper wire (.064 inch in 
diameter) 6% inch long in the shape shown in Fig. 37, hooking it over the 
throttle as shown. With the carburetor in horizontal position, note 
the position which the throttle disc assumes. The disc should assume 
the horizontal position. If it does not, and you are sure that the 
throttle shaft is free in its bearings, slightly loosen the screws on 
the plate “X,” Fig. 36, and turn the large adjusting cap. Turning the 
cap in a clockwise direction increases the tension of the spring and 
turning it in a counter-clockwise direction decreases the tension. 

PERSONAL DANGER OF RUNNING ENGINE IN CLOSED GARAGE 

Carbon monoxide, a deadly poisonous gas, is present in the exhaust 
of gasoline engines. Increasing the proportion of gasoline to air in the 
mixture fed to the engine, in other words, enriching it, increases the 
amount of carbon monoxide given off at the exhaust pipe. 

Because of the presence of carbon monoxide it is very dangerous to 
run the engine for any length of time while the car is in a small, closed 
garage. If the doors and windows are open the danger is very much 
lessened, but it is far safer, particularly if an adjustment of the carbu¬ 
retor is being made, to run the car into the open. 

Serious personal injury may be caused by the presence of carbon 
monoxide in a garage if the percentage of it in the air is greater than 
a very small fraction of one per cent. Unconsciousness may result 
without warning. It is reported that no indication of danger is given 
by personal discomfiture until too late. Deaths resulting from the 
presence of carbon monoxide in garages have been reported. 




40 


ADJUSTMENTS 


CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION 
CLUTCH 

General Description 

The main clutch is of the multiple disc dry-plate type. The eight 
driving discs, Fig. 39, are covered on both sides with a friction material, 
composed largely of asbestos, and are driven by gear teeth in the 
clutch ring which is bolted to the engine flywheel. 

The nine driven discs are not covered. These discs are carried on 
the clutch hub and drive it through six keys on the hub. The clutch 
hub is keyed to the transmission shaft. 

When the clutch is engaged by allowing the clutch pedal to come 
towards you, the spring forces all of the discs together. The resulting 
friction between the discs drives the transmission shaft and the 
car, when the transmission control lever is in other than the neutral 
position. 

There are no adjustments on the clutch proper. The clutch pedal 
should be adjusted occasionally to compensate for wear on the facings 
of the clutch discs. This adjustment is explained under “Ad¬ 
justment of Clutch Pedal Clearance,” page 41. 

Relining Clutch Discs 

Remove the clutch discs in accordance with directions under “Re¬ 
moval of Clutch Discs,” page 112. 

Determine the amount of clearance between the teeth of the discs 
and the teeth of the clutch ring. If the clearance is .010 inch or 
more, new discs should be substituted. 

With pliers or a sharp cold chisel and a hammer remove the used 
linings. Care must be exercised not to spring the discs in removing 
the linings. 

After removing the lining determine if the discs are warped or 
sprung by laying them face down on a surface plate. If they are 
warped or sprung they should not be used again. 

Cadillac clutch disc lining is supplied with the holes punched for 
the rivets. Suitable rivets are supplied. It is recommended that 
Cadillac lining and rivets be used. 

Do not have the lining nearer than one-sixteenth of an inch from 
the bottom of the teeth on the periphery of the discs. Do not have the 
lining extend over the inner edge of the discs. Be sure that all rivets 
are well drawn in and headed over. 

Do not have all rivet heads on one side of the disc. Alternate 
them. Rivets should be well drawn in and headed over. 




ADJUSTMENTS 


41 


CLUTCH PEDAL 
Adjustment of Clutch Pedal Clearance 

If the clutch pedal strikes the stop screw before the clutch is fully 
engaged, readjustment should be made. 

Remove the pin “N,” Fig. 14, and un¬ 
screw the yoke “P,” which is threaded on 
the rod “0,” so that when the pin “N,” 
is replaced the clutch pedal has a move¬ 
ment back and forth of one and one- 
quarter inches without starting to release 
the clutch. Secure the pin “N” with a 
cotter pin and tighten the lock nut “V.” 

Adjustment of Clutch Pedal Stop 

The clutch pedal stop screw “S,” Fig. 

14, is adjusted when the car is assembled 
and requires no further attention. When 
in proper adjustment the stop screw “S” 
should hold the pedal arm “U” so that 
the distance “T” is approximately one-half inch on the Seven-Passenger, 
Two-Passenger, Four-Passenger and Victoria and approximately one- 
quarter inch on all enclosed cars except the Victoria. If the adjust¬ 
ment has been changed, it may be readjusted in the following manner: 

Remove the pin “N” from the yoke “P,” loosen the lock nut “R” 
and adjust the stop screw “S” so that the pedal arm “U” is held the 
required distance from the under side of the toe board at “T” when the 
pin “Y” is against the stop screw. Tighten the lock nut “R.” 

Then adjust the yoke “V” so that when the pin “N” is replaced the 
clutch pedal has a movement back and forth of one and one-quarter 
inches without starting to release the clutch. Secure the pin “N” 
with a cotter pin and tighten the lock nut “V.” 

Adjustment of Length of Clutch Pedal 

To change the length of the clutch pedal, remove the bolts “K” 
and “L,” Fig. 14, and slide the forked piece “M” in the desired 
direction. Do not pull “M” out so far that it is possible to put in 
only one bolt; two bolts are required properly to hold the parts. 

There are four possible positions in this adjustment, Fig. 14 
showing the extreme shortened position. 

TRANSMISSION 

General Construction 

The transmission is of the selective type of sliding gear. It 
provides for three speeds forward and one reverse. The gear changes 
are accomplished by the movement of the control lever. 






42 


ADJUSTMENTS 


The teeth of the driving gear “A,” Fig. 39, are cut on the large end 
of the clutch connection shaft “B” which revolves on annular ball 
bearings “C” and “D,” and which turns with the crankshaft of the 
engine when the clutch is engaged, at which time the bearing “D” is 
inoperative. The gear “A” is in constant mesh with the jackshaft 
gear “E.” The jackshaft gears “E,” “F,” “G” and “H” revolve 
together on two Hyatt high-duty flexible roller bearings “l” on a 
stationary shaft “J.” The roller bearings “l” are lubricated by oil 
forced through the tube “K” which revolves with the gear “F.” 

The main transmission shaft “L,” which is coupled to the forward 
universal joint, issplined and carries two sliding gears “M” and “N.” 
The shaft “L” is supported by an annular ball bearing “0” at the rear 
end, and at the front end by a roller bearing “P” which is housed in 
the rear end of the clutch connection shaft “B.” 

There are no adjustments in the transmission. 

UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND REAR AXLE 
UNIVERSAL JOINTS 

The tubular drive shaft that transmits the power of the engine 
from the transmission to the rear axle is fitted with a universal joint 
at each end. 

The purpose of the joints is to provide a flexible drive, which is 
made necessary by the constantly changing alignment due to the play 
of the springs. 

The general arrangement of the joints is shown in Fig. 40. The 
joints differ only in that the forward joint, which is attached to the 
transmission shaft, is provided with a sliding connection, or slip sleeve, 
“K,” while the rear joint is welded to the drive shaft. A sliding 
connection is necessary to take care of the endwise motion of the drive 
shaft due to variation in the distance between the transmission and the 
rear axle caused by the action of the springs. 

The joints are protected by an inner housing “D” and an outer 
housing “C,” both of pressed steel. The inner housing is bolted to the 
flange and the outer housing fits over the end of the inner housing and 
is held in place and kept tight by means of a spring. The packing “H” 
is for the purpose of preventing grease from working out and dirt from 
getting in. 

REAR AXLE 

Adjustment of Gear and Pinion Bearings 

In the design of the axle, provision is made for adjusting the pinion 
and gear so that the teeth may be correctly meshed, and for locking all 
the adjusting nuts in position securely. 

The large bevel gear “A” Fig. 15, on the gear mount “B,” and the 







ADJUSTMENTS 


43 



Fig. 15—Rear Axle , Sectional View. 






























44 


ADJUSTMENTS 


bevel pinion “C” on the driving shaft “D,” are correctly meshed when 
the car is assembled, but after it has been in use for several thousand 
miles it may be found that the bearings “E” and “F,” which take the 
end thrust of the gears, have become more permanently seated, causing 
end play in the pinion shaft “D” and side play in the gear mount “B.” 
When this condition exists, bearings “E” and “F” should be readjusted. 

If undue end play exists in the pinion shaft “D,” the bearing “E” 
should be adjusted as follows: 

Loosen the two long clamping bolts on the pinion barrel and remove 
the cover plate giving access to the adjusting nuts “I” and “K.” 
(See Note.) Hold the adjusting nut “I” from turning and turn up the 
adjusting nut “K” as far as possible without making the adjustment 
of bearing “E” too tight. (See under “Caution in Adjusting Timken 
Bearings,” page 53.) After the adjustment has been made replace 
the cover plate over the opening and tighten the clamping bolts. 

Note —The cover plate is at the top of the pinion barrel on some 
of the Type 57 axles. If the cover plate is at the top it is necessary to 
entirely remove the two long clamping bolts before the cover can be 
removed. 

If, after removing the rear cover plate “L,” undue side play is 
found in the gear mount “B,” the bearing “F” should be adjusted as 
follows: 

Move the key “M” entirely out of the slots in the adjusting nut 
“N,” loosen the cap screws holding the cap “0” and turn the adjusting 
nut “N” as far as possible without making the adjustment of the 
bearings too tight. (See under “Caution in Adjusting Timken Bear¬ 
ings,” page 53.) After the adjustment has been made, make sure 
that the key “M” is replaced in one of the slots in adjusting nut “N” 
and that the cap screws holding the cap “0” are tightened and locked. 


Adjustment of Gears for Proper Meshing 

If, after adjusting the bearings “E” and “F,” Fig. 15, it is found 
necessary to move the pinion “C” endwise or the bevel gear “A” side- 
wise in order to bring the gears into proper mesh, it must first be deter¬ 
mined whether it is necessary to move the pinion, the large bevel gear, 
or both, and in which direction the gear or gears must be moved. 

Bevel gears should be so adjusted that the large ends of the teeth of 
one gear are practically flush with the large ends of the teeth of the 
other gear, which can be determined by removing the peep-hole cover 
“V.” Extreme care must be used in adjusting, as the tooth forms of 
the most accurately cut gears may be easily ruined by running them 
when not properly meshed. 

In order to adjust the gears to the best advantage a crank should be 





ADJUSTMENTS 


45 


attached to the forward end of the pinion shaft “D” so that the gears 
can be turned by hand and the adjustment tried until positions are 
found for the gears where they run smoothly and do not bind at any 
point. 

If the bearings “E” and “P” on the drive shaft “D” are in proper 
adjustment, and if it is found necessary to move the pinion “C” end¬ 
wise, proceed as follows: 

Loosen the clamping bolts on the axle housing and the cover plate 
covering the adjustment hole. (See Note.) Move the adjusting nuts 
“I” and “K” together, moving the pinion in either direction as required. 
If the adjusting nuts “I” and “K” are moved in the same direction and 
exactly together, the relative adjustment of the bearings “P” and “E” 
will not be altered. 

Note —The cover plate is at the top of the pinion barrel on some 
of the Type 57 axles. If the cover plate is at the top it is necessary to 
entirely remove the two long clamping bolts before the cover can be 
removed. 

When the proper position for the pinion has been found, replace the 
cover plate over the opening and tighten the clamping bolts. 

If it is found necessary to move the large bevel gear sidewise, proceed 
as follows: 

First loosen the bolts holding caps “0” and “R.” Then move the 
keys “M” and “S” out of the slots in the adjusting nuts “N” and “T.” 
The adjusting nuts “N” and “T” can now be turned, moving the gear 
mount with the gear in either direction as required. Be careful not to 
adjust the bearings too tight. (See under “Caution in Adjusting 
Timken Bearings,” page 53.) 

After the correct position for the large driving gear has been found 
be sure that the keys “M” and “S” are replaced in the slots in the 
adjusting nuts “N” and “T” and that the bolts holding the caps “0” 
and “R” are tightened and locked. 

Replace the cover “L,” and fill with Cadillac Rear Axle and Trans¬ 
mission Lubricant, bringing the level up to. the top of the filling hole 
“U.” 




46 


ADJUSTMENTS 


BRAKES 

FOOT BRAKES 
(External Contracting) 

Ordinary Adjustment 

Provision is made in each brake for its adjustment. Do not 
attempt to adjust the brakes by the pull rods. The brakes cannot be 
properly adjusted in this manner. To adjust each foot brake, proceed 
as follows: 

Remove the cotter pin in the adjusting screw “A,” Fig. 16, and 
turn the screw “A” until that part of the brake band lining opposite 
the screw just clears the drum. Adjust the two nuts “B” on the yoke 
bolt so that the lower part of the brake band lining just clears the drum. 

Then adjust the nut “C” on the upper end of the yoke bolt so that 
the lever “D” is brought into the position shown in Fig. 16, when the 
brake is fully applied—i. e., so that the lower edge of the pin “T” and 
the upper edge of the pin “S” are tangent to an imaginary horizontal 
line shown at “X.” 


Adjustment of Stop Screws 

The position of the stop screw “E,” Fig. 17, is adjusted when the car 
is assembled and requires no further attention unless its adjustment is 
altered. Adjustment for wear on the lining should be made as de¬ 
scribed above by the nuts “A,” “B,” and “C,” Fig. 16; the stop screw 
“E” should not be adjusted to compensate for wear. If the stop 
screw “E” should be moved from its original position, it may be read¬ 
justed in the following manner: 

First adjust the brake as explained above so that the lever “D,” 
Fig. 16, is in the correct position when fully applied. Then release the 
brake. Remove the pin “A” in the yoke “B,” Fig. 17, loosen the 
clamping screw “C” and push the stop “G” forward out of the way. 
Then adjust the stop screw “E” and the nuts “B,” Fig. 16, so that 
the upper and lower parts of the brake band lining clear the drum by 
one thirty-second of an inch. 

Then pull the rod “H,” Fig. 17, as far forward as it will go without 
moving the rods “K” and “L.” Holding the rod “H” in this position, 
push the stop “G” down against the bracket “F” and tighten the 
clamping screw “C.” Then adjust the yoke “B” so that when the pin 
“A” is replaced the brake pedal arm “U” is held three-eighths of an inch 
away from the under side of the toe board. 

After the adjustments are completed, be sure to lock all adjusting 
screws and nuts and to insert and spread all cotter pins. 




ADJUSTMENTS 


47 


HAND BRAKES 
(Internal Expanding) 

Ordinary Adjustment 

Provision is made in each brake for its adjustment. Do not 
attempt to adjust the brakes by the pull rods. The brakes cannot be 
properly adjusted in this manner. To adjust each hand brake proceed 
as follows: 

Place a jack under the rear axle housing and raise the axle so that 
the wheel can be turned by hand. Remove the cover “F,” Fig. 16; 
this may be done by loosening the lock nut “G” and turning the bolt 
to the left about one-quarter of a turn, which releases the clamping 
bar “H 

Rotate the wheel until the opening gives access to the screw “J.” 
Turn the screw “J” until that part of the brake band lining opposite 
the screw just clears the drum. 

Rotate the wheel and through the opening loosen the seven locking 
screws “K.” Then turn the two adjusting screws “L,” which have 
right-hand threads on one end and left-hand threads on the other, so 
that when the brake is fully applied the center of the pin “M” stands 
three and three-sixteenths inches to three and one-quarter inches away 
from the inside of the brake drum at “Y.” The screws “L” should be 
turned equally and in the same direction. 

Release the brakes and adjust the stop screws “R” so that the 
upper and lower parts of the brake band lining are equidistant from 



Fig. 16—Internal and, External Brakes. 

















48 


ADJUSTMENTS 


the brake drum. Adjust the stop screw “N” so that the head of the 
screw just touches the inside of the brake band. Tighten the seven 
locking screws “K” and replace the cover “F.” 

Adjustment of Stop Screws 

The stop screw “0,” Fig. 17, is adjusted when the car is assembled, 
and requires no further attention unless its adjustment is altered. 
Adjustment for wear on the linings should be made as described above 
by the screws “J,” “L” and “R,” Fig. 16; the stop screw “0” should not 
be adjusted to compensate for wear. If the original adjustment of the 
stop screw “0” has been altered, it may be readjusted in the following 
manner: 

First, adjust the brake as described above by the screws “J ” and 
“L,” Fig. 16, but screw the stop screws “R” and “N” away from the 
brake band. 

Then remove the pin “T” in the yoke “S,” Fig. 17, and adjust the 
stop screw “0” so that when the brake is released the center of the pin 
“M,” Fig. 16, stands three and nine-sixteenths inches away from the 
inside of the brake drum. 

Adjust the stop screws “R” so that the upper and lower parts of the 
brake band are equidistant from the brake drum. Adjust the stop 
screw “N” so that the head of the screw just touches the inside of the 
brake band. Tighten the seven locking screws “K” and replace the 
cover “F.” 



Fig. 17—Brake Rods. 




ADJUSTMENTS 


49 


Then adjust the yoke “S,” Fig. 17, so that when the pin “T” is 
replaced the upper end of the handle on the hand brake lever may be 
moved back one and one-quarter inches from its extreme forward 
position without moving the rods “M” and “N.” 

After the adjustments are completed, be sure to lock all adjusting 
screws and nuts and to insert and spread all cotter pins. 

Relining Brake Bands 

To reline a brake band proceed as follows: 

Remove the brake band. (See under “Brakes,” page 125) and with 
a sharp cold chisel cut off the rivets which hold the lining, being careful 
not to spring the brake band. 

Place the new lining on the band, being sure that it fits the brake 
band snugly and drill holes for the rivets. 

Insert the rivets and head them over, being sure that the rivet 
heads are pulled well into the lining to prevent the rivet heads rubbing 
on the brake drums. 

After replacing the brake band, adjust the brake in accordance with 
directions in this book under “Brake,” page 46. 

FRONT AXLE AND STEERING GEAR 

FRONT AXLE 

Spindle Arm Stop Screws 

The stop screws “H,” Fig. 47, are for the purpose of limiting the 
angle at which the front wheels can be turned. The stop screw at the 
left end of the axle limits the angle to which the wheels can be turned to 
the right. The stop screw at the right end of the axle limits the angle 
at which the wheels can be turned to the left. 

The stop screws are adjustable and should be so set that the wheels 
are permitted to turn to as great an angle as possible, yet preventing 
the tires from rubbing on the right side spring, or the steering connect¬ 
ing rod on the left side. 

Adjustment of Spindle Bearing 

The bushing “G,” Fig. 47, is pressed into the axle forging. If 
there is too much end play in the bearing “D” draw up on the adjusting 
nut “B,” pulling the bushing “G” up against the under side of the 
spindle. Then back off the adjusting nut “B” just enough to free the 
adjustment. (See under “Caution in Adjusting Timken Bearings,” 
page 53.) 

STEERING GEAR 

Adjustment of Worm Thrust Bearings 

To take up the end play in the worm “K,” Fig. 18, remove the plug 
“B,” Fig. 19, and loosen the jamb nuts “J,” and lock screws “A.” 








50 


ADJUSTMENTS 


Then with a screw-driver or somethings else suitable, screw down the 
adjusting collar “L,” Fig. 18, which can be seen through the hole from 
which the plug “B,” Fig. 19, was removed, until the proper adjust¬ 
ment is made. 



Fig. 18—Steering Gear, Sectional View. 


Lock screws “A” are positioned in the steering gear housing so that 
when one is directly over a slot in the adjusting collar, the other is 
between two slots. Therefore, after adjusting the collar it will be 
necessary to select a proper screw for locking the adjustment. Both 
screws should be held from turning by locking the jamb nuts “J” 
Do not tighten against the adjusting collar, the screw which is not used 
for locking the adjustment. 

Adjustment of Worm and Sector 

An adjustment is provided for taking up wear on the teeth of the 
worm “K” and sector “W,” Fig. 18. The sector “W” has its bearing 
in an eccentric steel bushing. Wear can be taken up by turning this 
bushing so that it throws the sector towards the worm. 

To do this proceed as follows: First turn the steering wheel so that 
the front wheels point straight ahead. Remove the locking screw 








ADJUSTMENTS 


51 


“C,” Fig. 19. As the bushing is assembled at the factory it is necessary 
to move the arm “D” down to tighten the adjustment. 

If the wear on the teeth of the 
worm and sector is very great, it will 
be necessary to remove the steering 
arm “F” and to place the arm “D” 
in a different position on the hexag¬ 
onal end of the eccentric bushing in 
order to bring the arm “D” in posi¬ 
tion so that it can be locked by the 
screw “C.” 

After the adjustment is made 
properly be sure that the lock screw 
“C” is replaced and properly tight¬ 
ened. 

Adjustment of Sector Shaft 

An adjustment is provided on 
the inner face of the steering gear 
housing for taking up end-play in the 
sector shaft. 

To make this adjustment remove 
the locking arm “0,” Fig. 18, and 
turn the adjusting screw in until the 
proper adjustment is made, after which the locking arm “0” should be 
replaced and the lock screw, “P,” replaced and tightened. 

Caution —Do not turn the steering gear when the car is stand¬ 
ing. This is not only unnecessary but is also bad practice. 

WHEELS 
WHEEL BEARINGS 
Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings 

Remove the hub cap by unscrewing it; also remove the lock nut 
“A,” Fig. 20, and the washer “B.” 


A 


Fig. 20—Front Wheel Bearings and Adjusting Nuts. 














52 


ADJUSTMENTS 


Adjust the wheel bearings with the adjusting nut “C.” (See under 
“Caution in Adjusting Timken Bearings.”) 

After completing the adjustment, replace the washer “B,” making 
sure that it fits over the stud “D” properly. Screw on and tighten the 
lock nut “A.” 

The thread on the left-hand spindle is a left-hand one. 

Adjusting Rear Wheel Bearings . 

Remove the lubricator “A,” Fig. 49, and unscrew the hub cap. 

Remove the locking ring “K” and withdraw the axle shaft. If the 
axle shaft sticks it may be removed by tapping a cold chisel between 
the rear faces of the drivers on the axle flange and the bottoms of the 
recesses in the hub flange. If one of the axle shafts fits particularly 
tight, remove the looser one in accordance with directions given here 
and drive out the other by passing a bar of suitable size and length 
through the opposite end of the axle housing. 

Loosen the lock nut “D” and make the adjustment with the adjust¬ 
ing nut “F,” being careful to lock the adjustment with the nut “D” 
after completing it. 

In adjusting the bearings be careful not to get the adjustment too 
tight. (See under “Caution in adjusting Timken bearings/’ page 53.) 

ALIGNMENT OF FRONT WHEELS 

The ideal condition is to have the front wheels parallel to each other 
on horizontal lines passing diametrically through their centers. Under 
no condition should the wheels toe out. It is permissible to have them 
toe in, providing they do not toe in more than three-eighths of an inch 
in the diameter of the wheel. 

Jack up the front axle until both wheels are clear of the floor and 
true~up a the*demountable rims on the wheels. 



Move the steering wheel to bring the left front wheel “A,” Fig. 21, 
parallel with the frame “B.” This may be determined by taking 
measurements “C” from the rim of the wheel to the frame. 























ADJUSTMENTS 


53 


Tie a string to a rear spoke of each front wheel directly back of the 
center of the wheel. Carry the strings inward between the spokes, 
back around the tires and then forward to points “D” as shown. Use 
strings that will extend exactly twelve feet in front of the tires. Bring 
the strings in until they just touch the forward edges of the tires at “E.” 
The strings must be slightly above or below the hubs so as to clear them. 

If the wheels are parallel, the distances “F” and “G” between the 
strings will be the same at points just ahead of the tires and at points 
at the ends of the strings. 

Under no condition should the wheels toe in more than enough to 
allow the twelve-foot strings to converge more than one and one-half 
inches, that is, so that dimension “G” is not more than one and one- 
half inches less than dimension “F.” 

Adjustment is provided in the parallel rod for aligning the front 
wheels. If adjustment is necessary and the left front wheel is dis¬ 
turbed, care should be taken to have this wheel parallel with the frame 
before readjusting the strings and taking measurements “F” and “G.” 

The front wheels camber about one and one-half inches, that is, 
the measurement between the wheels at the top should be approx¬ 
imately one and one-half inches greater than the corresponding measure¬ 
ment diametrically opposite at the bottom of the wheels. 

STRAIGHTENING BENT PARTS 

Modern automobile construction demands the use of the highest 
grades of alloy steels. A great advantage of alloy steels is that by 
properly heating and cooling and re-heating such steels great strength 
and durability are obtained. However, heat treatment must be given 
with full and accurate knowledge of the contents of the steel, which can¬ 
not be obtained in the ordinary repair shop. Therefore, if any part is 
heated outside of this factory for the purpose of straightening or for 
other purposes, the part at once loses the advantage which the original 
heat treatment gave it. 

CAUTION IN ADJUSTING TIMKEN BEARINGS 

When adjusting Timken Bearings, great care must be exercised not 
to get them tight. These bearings will revolve even when adjusted 
very tightly, but that condition is sure to prove disastrous. They 
should be adjusted so that a very slight amount of play or looseness 
may be discerned. 

If, after a bearing has been adjusted to a point that is apparently 
correct, the locking device cannot be placed in position without chang- 




54 


ADJUSTMENTS 


ing the adjustment, it is far better to loosen the adjustment until it can 
be secured with the locking device than to tighten the bearing adjust¬ 
ment. 

WASHING CARS 

The following directions should be followed carefully when washing 
a car. 

Use clean water. Do not use water containing alkali. In parts of 
the country where the regular water supply contains alkali, rain water 
should be used. 

Never use water colder than 40° Fahrenheit, or warmer than 60°. 

If a hose is used never have greater pressure than will carry the 
water more than 6 inches beyond the end of the hose. Water under 
greater pressure will drive the grit and dirt into the finish. 

A soft Rock Island natural sheep’s wool sponge is best for washing 
the body and hood. 

Begin washing at the top of the body panels and thoroughly wet 
the surface all over with water from the sponge. Continue until the 
accumulation of road dirt softens and gives way. Use clean water 
continuously and plenty of it. Go over the surface with plenty of 
water two or three times until it is perfectly clean. 

Do not wash the hood while it is hot. The effect is the same as 
washing it with hot water. 

Dryjoff^with a clean soft chamois. Do not rub the finish or use 
pressure more than sufficient to dry off the water. The water will 
evaporate quickly and leave the finish in good condition. 

Do not wash the windshield or the glass of enclosed cars with 
preparations which contain harmful ingredients. Use only cleaning 
compounds which are known to have no destructive effects on highly 
polished glass. 




PART II 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND 
REPLACEMENT 


ENGINE 

ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFTS 

Removal 

Remove the top cover plate. (See “Removal” under “Top Cover 
Plate,” page 76.) Loosen the set screws holding the rocker arm shafts 
in place. Mark each rocker arm to be removed so it can be put back as 
originally assembled. 

Remove the rocker arm shafts by lightly tapping them out. 

Inspection 

Inspection op Rocker Arms and Shafts— After cleaning the 
arms with gasoline or kerosene remove the pins which hold the rolls. 
This should be done with a press. Care must be exercised not to spring 
the arms. 

The clearance between a rocker arm bushing and the shaft should 
not exceed .004 inch. 

The clearance between a rocker arm roll and the pin upon which it 
rotates should not exceed .003 inch. 

All bearing surfaces should be smooth. 

The outer circumference of the rolls should be true within .0015 
inch. 

Rocker arm shafts should be a light press fit into the bronze bush¬ 
ings which receive them. 

Inspection of Other Parts— Inspect the cams. They should 
be smooth and show practically no wear. 

Replacement 

Rocker arm pins should be well lubricated before the rolls are 
assembled. The rolls should rotate freely after assembly. In replacing 
reverse the operations under “Removal.” 

CRANK PIN BEARINGS 

Removal 

Remove the oil pan and the baffle plate. (See “Removal” under 
“Oil Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78.) 

Open the compression cocks. 

Remove the cotter pins and the two nuts from the cap of the straight 
connecting rod. 


(55) 



56 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 



Fig. 22-—Cross Section of Engine, Side View. 

























































































































































































































































































































































REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


57 


Remove the cap, being careful not to mix the liners. 

Remove the rod and piston. Care must be exercised not to damage 
the piston in removing it. Do not allow the skirt of the piston to fall 
against the connecting rod. 

Remove the cotter pins and the four nuts from the caps of the forked 
connecting rod and remove the caps. 

Remove the rod with piston, being careful not to damage the piston, 
or to allow the halves of the crank pin bearing to drop. 

Remove the halves of the bearing. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Bearing —Clean the bearing with gasoline or 
kerosene and wipe it off with a cloth. In handling, be careful not to 
drop it or spring or mar it in any other way. 

Inspect the bearing metal. If it is cracked, or cut so that it cannot 
be cleaned up with a scraper, without increasing the clearance between 
the bearing and crank pin to more than .006 inch, a new bearing should 
be substituted. (See under “Fitting Crank Pin Bearings,” page 10.) 

To insure against excessive oil consumption, smoking at the exhaust, 
the rapid formation of carbon in the cylinders, and noisy operation, 
the clearance between a crank pin bearing, when clamped in the rod, 
and the crank pin should not exceed .006 inch. End play in a crank 
pin bearing should not exceed .015 inch. There is no adjustment on 
crank pin bearings. Crank pin bearings .005 inch undersize are 
furnished by the Cadillac Motor Car Company. 

Inspect the dowel pin holes in the bearing. The clearance between 
the pin holes and the pins should not exceed .002 inch. 

Examine the oil hole in the bearing, cleaning it out if obstructed. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the crank pin. The crank 
pin should be round within .003 inch and free from scores; if it is not, 
it should be dressed down. (See under “Dressing Down Crankshaft 
Bearing Surfaces,” page 11). A new undersize bearing should be fitted 
if there is more than .006 inch clearance between the pin and bearing 
after the work is completed. (See under “Fitting Crank Pin Bearings,” 
page 10.) 

Examine the oil hole in the crank pin, cleaning it out if obstructed. 

Inspect the pistons and piston rings in accordance with direc¬ 
tions under “Piston and Piston Rings,” page 74. If wear on a piston 
seems to indicate that the rod is sprung or twisted, test it for alignment. 
(See “Inspection of Rods” under “Connecting Rods,” page 83). 

Inspect the cylinder bores. Cylinder bores should be round within 
.002 inch and free from scores. 




58 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Replacement 

With a cloth wipe off the halves of the bearing and welljlubricate 
the bearing surfaces with engine oil of a suitable quality before replacing 
these parts. 

In replacing reverse operations under “Removal.” 

Be sure to replace the connecting rods as originally assembled in 
engine. Connecting rods are numbered on the channel section (see 
“C,” Figs. 28 and 29), indicating the cylinders in which they go. Num¬ 
ber one forked rod and number one straight rod go into cylinders 
nearest the radiator; number two forked rod and number two straight 
rod into cylinders just back of these, etc. The numbers on the channel 
sections of the rods should face downward, and the numbered ends of 
the crank pin bearings should face to the rear. 

Care should be exercised that the dowel pins in the forked rod are 
in the pin holes in the bearing, before tightening the cap nuts. 

All nuts and bolts and both bearing caps of forked rods are numbered. 
One bolt and nut only and the cap of straight rods are numbered. 
Bolts, nuts and caps should be replaced in accordance with these 
numbers. 

The following will serve to check the assembly of the connecting 
rods and crank pin bearings: The forked connecting rods should be 
on the left-hand side of the engine. The edges of the crank pin bearing 
halves where they come together should be in the horizontal plane when 
the pistons attached to the forked rods are on upper and lower centers. 
The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the two center con¬ 
necting rods in each cylinder block, should face toward each other. 
The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the end connecting 
rods in each cylinder block should face from each other. 

In adjusting the straight connecting rod follow directions under 
“Adjustment of Connecting Rod Bearings,” page 9. 

After replacing the oil pan refill it with one and one half gallons of 
suitable engine oil. Cadillac Motor oil is recommended. 

MAIN BEARINGS 

Removal 

Remove the oil pan and the baffle plate. (See “Removal” under 
“Oil Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78.) 

Remove the pipe between the main bearing cap and the oil feeder 
pipe. 

Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the main bearing cap. 

Remove the bearing cap with the lower half of the bearing. If 
more than one bearing is to be removed at a time, it is best to first 
remove the connecting rods to insure against springing them, should 
one end of the crankshaft drop lower than the other, (see “Removal” 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


59 


under “Connecting Rods,” page 82), also to support the crankshaft to 
prevent it dropping, which might injure it. 

Care must be exercised not to mix the liners. 

The upper half of the bearing can be removed by rotating it. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Bearing —Clean the bearing with gasoline or kero¬ 
sene and wipe it off with a cloth. 

In handling the bearing be careful not to drop it or spring or mar it 
in any other way. 

Carefully inspect the babbitt. If it is cracked, or cut so that it 
cannot be easily cleaned up with a scraper, replacement of the bear¬ 
ing should be made. (See under “Fitting Main Crankshaft Bearings,” 
page 11). 

The end thrust of the crankshaft is taken by the rear main bearing. 

The shaft should have no more than .020 inch end play. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the main bearing surfaces 
of the crankshaft. If any of them are out of round more than .003 
inch, or scored, the shaft should be dressed down and the bearings 
refitted. (See under “Dressing Down Crankshaft Bearing Surfaces,” 
page 11.) 

Replacement 

The bearings, liners and bearing cap should be carefully wiped off 
and the bearing surfaces lubricated with a good grade of engine oil 
before replacement is made. 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

The bearings are numbered on one end. The one nearest the radi¬ 
ator is stamped “1,” the center bearing “2,” and the rear bearing “3.” 
In replacing have the numbered ends toward the radiator. 

In readjusting main bearings follow directions under “Adjustment 
of Main Crankshaft Bearings,” page 9. 

After replacing the oil pan refill it with one and one-half gallons of 
suitable engine oil. Cadillac Motor oil is recommended. 

If after starting the engine it is found that the pressure gauge does 
not register pressure, stop the engine at once and prime the oil pump. 
This may be done by disconnecting at its upper end the oil pipe from 
the oil pressure regulator and forcing two to three gunfuls of clean 
engine oil into the pipe. Connect the pipe and tighten the union before 
starting the engine. 

FANSHAFT AND BEARINGS 

Removal 

Remove the fan. (See “Removal” under “Fan,” page 70.) 

Remove the carburetor. (See “Removal” under “Carburetor,” 
page 105.) 




60 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the generator drive shaft “A.” (Fig. 22.) 

Remove the large cap screw “B.” 

Remove the coupling “C.” A puller should be used for this. 
Remove the distributor and timer. (See “Removal” under “Distri¬ 
bution and Timer,” page 100.) 

Remove the small spiral gear “E.” 

Remove the locking nut “F.” 

Remove the felt washer retainer “G” with washer. 

Remove the large brass screw collar “H.” 

With a soft brass drift, no larger in diameter than the rear end of 
the fanshaft, carefully tap out the shaft, by tapping on the rear end 
of it. 

Remove the rear fanshaft bearing. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with gasoline or kerosene. 

Inspection of Fanshaft and Bearings —Inspect the oil hole 
“L,” Fig. 22, and clean out if obstructed. 

The end play in the annular ball bearings should be checked up. 
Holding the inner race, the outer race should have no more than .015 
inch end play. 

The bearings should be a hand press fit on the shaft. The races 
of the bearings should rotate smoothly and quietly. 

Inspection of Other Parts —The bearings should be hand press 
fit in the housing. 

There should be no more than .005 inch clearance between the 
fanshaft and the bushings in the fan hub. 

Inspect the fan. (See “Inspection of Fan” under “Fan,” page 70.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

All parts should be clean, and bearings well lubricated with a good 
grade of engine oil before replacement is made. 

The inner races of the ball bearings are held from rotating on the 
fanshaft by the lock nut “F.” It is important that this nut be well 
tightened in replacing. 

It is necessary to retime the ignition after replacing the distributor 
housing (see under “Timing Ignition,” page 23), also to put ten ounces 
of number two grease into the distributor housing. This may be 
done after removing the breather “Z,” Fig. 34. 

CYLINDER BLOCKS 

Removal 

Drain the Cooling System.- (See under “Draining the Cooling 
System,” page 34.) 





REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


61 


Remove the connecting rods and pistons. (See “Removal” under 
“Connecting Rods,” page 82.) It is possible to remove the cylinder 
block without first removing the connecting rods and pistons; to prevent 
damage to these parts, however, it is recommended that they be 
removed. 

Remove the hose connections from the cylinder blocks. 

Disconnect the high tension wires from the spark plugs, and remove 
the conduit brackets from the cylinder head. Remove the forward 
end of the conduit from the bracket on the aluminum cap by pulling 
the conduit out. Lay the conduit with wires back out of the way. 



Fig. 23—Cross Section of Engine, Front View. 



































































62 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Disconnect the intake manifold from the cylinder block by remov¬ 
ing the two cap screws. 

Remove the small water pipe between the intake manifold and the 
cylinder block. 

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold by remov¬ 
ing the two bolts. 

Remove the large threaded dowel pin at each end of the cylinder 
block by placing a spring washer over the pin large enough to permit 
the pin to be pulled through it, and screwing down and tightening one 
of the cylinder hold down nuts. The threaded end of each dowel pin 
is covered by a removable brass cap. 

Remove the exhaust valves from the end cylinders. (See “Removal” 
under “Valves and Valve Springs,” page 91.) This will facilitate the 
removal of the end hold down nuts on the inner row. 

Remove the cylinder hold down nuts. 

The cylinder block can now be removed. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Cylinder Block and Valves— Remove the large 
cover plate at each end of the cylinder block and wash out the water 
jacket. Replace the end covers, making sure that the gaskets are in 
good condition, and clean the cylinder block with gasoline or kerosene. 

Examine all cylinder bores. Cylinder bores should be free from 
scores and should be round within .002 inch. 

There should be no more than .007 inch clearance between a 
cylinder bore and that part of the piston below the lower piston ring. 

Inspect the valve seats, as well as the surfaces of the valves which 
contact with the seats. This may be done by forcing open the valves 
by hand. At the same time note if the valve stems work freely in 
their guides; if not, the valves should be removed and the stems and 
guides cleaned and lubricated. 

If a valve or seat is pitted or if it appears that the valve has been 
leaking, the valve should be reground. (See under “Grinding Valves,” 
page 14.) 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the pistons and piston 
rings. (See “Inspection of Piston and Rings” under “Piston and 
Piston Rings,” page 74.) If the wear on a piston seems to indicate 
that the rod is sprung or twisted, test the rod for alignment. (See 
“Inspection of Rods” under “Connecting Rods,” page 83.) 

Inspect the crank pin bearings. (See “Inspection of Bearings” 
under “Crank Pin Bearings,” page 57.) 

Inspect the crank pins. Crank pins should be round within .003 
inch and free from scores; if not they should be dressed down. (See 
under “Dressing Down Crankshaft Bearing Surfaces,” page 11.) 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


63 


A new undersize bearing should be fitted if there is more than .006 inch 
between a pin and bearing after the work is completed. (See under 
“Fitting Crank Pin Bearings,” page 10.) 

Replacement 

Make sure that the cylinders and the pistons are free from carbon. 
Carbon can be removed with a soft iron scraper. 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

Be careful to replace the connecting rods as originally assembled into 
the engine. Connecting rods are numbered on the channel section 
(see “C,” Figs. 28 and 29), indicating the cylinders into which they go. 
Number one forked rod and number one straight rod go into cylinders 
nearest the radiator; number two forked rod and number two straight 
rod go into cylinders just back of these, etc. The numbers on the 
channel sections of the rods should face downward and the numbered 
ends of the rod bearings should face to the rear. 

Care should be exercised that the dowel pins in the forked rods are 
in the pin holes in the bearings before tightening the cap nuts. 

All nuts and bolts and both bearing caps of forked rods are num¬ 
bered. One bolt and nut only and the cap of straight rods are num¬ 
bered. Bolts, nuts and caps should be replaced in accordance with 
these numbers. 

The following will serve to check the assembly of the connecting 
rods and crank pin bearings: The forked connecting rods should 
be on the left-hand side of the engine. The edges of the crank 
pin bearing halves where they come together should be in the horizontal 
plane when the pistons attached to the forked rods are on upper and 
lower centers. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the 
two center connecting rods in each cylinder block should face toward 
each other. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the end 
connecting rods in each cylinder block should face from each other. 

In adjusting the straight connecting rod follow directions under 
“Adjustment of Connecting Rod Bearings,” page 9. 

After replacing the oil pan refill with one and one-half gallons of 
engine oil of a suitable quality. Cadillac Motor oil is recommended. 

If a new cylinder block is installed it will be necessary to ream the 
dowel pin holes. With the block in place use a Number 8 standard 
taper reamer, being careful to catch all chips from the under side. 
Ream only enough to clean up the holes. 

CRANKCASE 

Removal 

Remove and disassemble the engine. (See “Removal” and “Disas¬ 
sembly” under “Engine,” pages 66 and 68.) 




64 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Inspection 

With gasoline or kerosene clean all parts. 

Inspection of Crankcase —Examine the casting carefully and in¬ 
spect all machined surfaces. 

Examine the bushings for the camshaft. There should be no more 
than .005 inch clearance between the bushings and the shaft. The 
bushings should be free from scores. If it is necessary to replace one 
of the three center bushings tap it out carefully and carefully tap in the 
new bushing. If it is necessary to replace the rear bushing it will be 
necessary to first remove the cap “M,” Fig. 22. The bushing may 
then be tapped out from the rear. Be sure in replacing a bushing that 
the oil hole is in line with the oil hole in the crankcase. 

Make certain that all crankcase studs are tight in the aluminum 
and that they are screwed in as far as they should go. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect all parts in accordance 
with directions in this book. 

Replacement 

After inspecting all parts, reassemble and replace the engine. 
(See “Reassembly and Replacement” under “Engine,” page 69.) 

CAMSHAFT DRIVING CHAIN 
Looseness of Chains 

The looseness in the two engine chains may be determined by 
marking the rim of the fan, marking the radiator, and then oscillating 
the fan as far as possible without moving it on the fanshaft. If it is 
possible to oscillate the fan two inches or more at the rim, the chains 
should be inspected. (See below under “Inspection of Chain.”) 

Removal 

Remove the front cover plate. (See “Removal” under “Front Cover 
Plate,” page 75.) 

Determine the amount of looseness in the chain to be removed. 
(See below under “Inspection of Chain.”) 

Cut off the riveted head of one of the seat pins and remove the seat 
and the rocker pins. (See Fig. 3.) 

The chain can now be removed. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Chain —With the chain in place on the sprockets 
and the front cover plate removed, determine the amount it is possible 
to move the camshaft sprocket without moving the crankshaft. 
If there is looseness enough in the chain to permit a movement of 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


65 


three-sixteenths inch or more on the periphery of the camshaft 
sprocket it is recommended that a new chain be installed. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the teeth of the crank¬ 
shaft and camshaft sprockets. They should show very little wear. 

Inspect the fanshaft driving chain. (See “Inspection of Chain” 
under “Fanshaft Driving Chain,” page 66.) 

Replacement 

If the fanshaft chain has been removed replace it before replacing 
the camshaft chain. (See “Replacement” under “Fanshaft Driving 
Chain,” page 66.) 

In replacing the camshaft chain care must be exercised that the 
chain is so placed on the sprockets that the valve timing is correct. 

One tooth of the camshaft sprocket 
“A,” Fig. 24, is marked with an arrow and 
the tooth diametrically opposite with an 
“0.” One tooth on the crankshaft 
sprocket “B” has a similar arrow stamped 
on it and the two teeth opposite each 
are stamped with an “0” mark. 

Turn the camshaft and crankshaft to 
bring the sprockets into the positions 
shown in Fig. 24. The arrows on the 
two sprockets must point toward each 
other and the tooth marked “0” of the 
camshaft sprocket must be directly 
opposite the space between the two simi¬ 
larly marked teeth on the crankshaft 
sprocket. Without turning either of the 
sprockets, replace the chain, with the 
arrows which are stamped on the out¬ 
side links pointing in the direction in 
which the chain is to run. Bring the 
ends of the chain together, prefer¬ 
ably on the camshaft sprocket, insert the pins and rivet. (See 
under “Riveting Chains,” page 14.) 

FANSHAFT DRIVING CHAIN 
Looseness of Chains 

The looseness in the two engine chains may be determined by 
marking the rim of the fan, marking radiator, and then oscillating the 
fan as far as possible without moving it on the fanshaft. If it is possible 
to oscillate the fan two inches or more at the rim the chains should be 
inspected. (See under “Inspection of Chain,” page 64.) 



Fig. 21).—Cam Shaft Driving 
Sprockets and Chain. 




66 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Removal 

Remove the camshaft driving chain. (See “Removal” under “Cam¬ 
shaft Driving Chain,” page 64.) 

Determine the amount of looseness in the chain to be removed. 
(See under “Inspection of Chain,” page 64.) 

Cut off the riveted head of one of the seat pins and remove the 
seat and rocker pins. (See Fig. 3.) 

The chain can now be removed. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Chain —With the chain in place on the sprockets 
and the front cover removed, determine the amount of looseness in it. 
This may be done in the following manner: Screw on and tighten the 
fanshaft nut “R,” Fig. 22. Place a tight fitting nine-inch wrench on 
the nut. Determine the length of the arc through which it is possible 
to pass the end of the wrench without moving the camshaft sprocket. 
If the arc is one inch long or more it is recommended that a new chain 
be installed. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the camshaft and fanshaft 
sprockets The teeth of these sprockets should show very little wear. 

Inspect the camshaft chain and sprockets. (See “Inspection of 
Chain” under “Camshaft Driving Chain,” page 64.) 

Replacement 

Place the chain on the fanshaft and camshaft sprockets, with the 
arrows which are stamped on outside links pointing in the direction 
in which the chain is to run. Bring the ends of the chain together 
on the camshaft sprocket. Insert the pins and rivet. (See under 
“Riveting Chains,” page 14.) 

In replacing the camshaft driving chain, see “Replacement” 
under “Camshaft Driving Chain,” page 65. 

After both chains are installed, retime the ignition in accordance 
with directions under “Timing Ignition,” page 23. 

ENGINE 

Removal 

Remove the hood. 

Remove the rod connecting the arm on the steering gear to the arm 
on the cross shaft at the rear of the radiator. 

Remove the two hood shelves. 

Remove the radiator splash shield. 

Remove the splash shield under the engine. 

Remove the radiator. (See “Removal” under “Radiator,” page 103.) 
Disconnect one of the cables from the storage battery and place a 
block of wood under it to prevent it touching the terminal on the battery. 





REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


67 


Remove the top cover plate from the generator. 

Remove the large cable at the generator, also the five smaller wires. 

Remove the floor boards. 

Remove the pipe connecting the radiator and the radiator con- 
densor. 

Remove the transmission. (If the body is off, do not remove 
transmission from engine.) (See “Removal” under “Transmission,” 
page 121.) 

Remove, from the ignition coil, the high tension wire and the low 
tension wire which pass to the engine through the conduit. 

Remove the conduit bracket from the dash and pull the two wires 
through the dash. 

Remove the rod running through the dash to the carburetor. 

Remove the two rods running from the steering gear to the engine. 

Remove the speedometer cable. 

Shut the gasoline valve at the tank and remove, from the body of the 
car, the pipe which leads from the strainer under the front floor, also 
remove the pipe which leads from the pressure relief valve under the 
front floor. 

Remove the air pipe between the pressure relief valve and the power 
compressor at the front end of the engine, also the pipe between the 
settling chamber and the carburetor. 

Disconnect the pipe from the oil pressure regulator. 

Disconnect the steering gear bracket from the instrument board. 

Remove the rear fenders. (See “Removal of Rear Fender” under 
“Fenders,” page 148.) 

Loosen the nuts on the two rear body bolts and remove the nuts 
from the remainder of the body bolts. Tap up the bolts from which 
the nuts are removed. 

Jack up the front end of the body about eight inches and block it 
up so that it will not drop. 

Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. 

Remove the cap screws which hold the cap of the front engine 
support. 

Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the two large bolts which hold 
the rear engine supports to the frame. 

Remove the two large bolts. To facilitate removal, jack up the 
rear of the engine just enough to relieve the bolts of the weight of the 
engine. 






68 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 



Fig. 25—Location of Rope in Lifting Engine from Frame. 


With a suitable chain fall attached to a stout rope placed around 
the engine as shown in Fig. 25 lift out the engine carefully. 

Disassembly 

Remove the engine. (See “Removal.”) 

Wash off the engine and transmission with gasoline or kerosene. 
Remove the transmission if not removed before removing engine. 
(See “Removal” under “Transmission,” page 121.) 

Remove the intake manifold with carburetor. 

Remove the motor generator. (See “Removal of Motor Generator” 
under “Motor Generator,” page 97.) 

Remove the starter gear housing. The housing may be lifted off 
after removing the six cap screws and the two dowel pins and discon¬ 
necting the control rods. 

Remove the water pumps. (See “Removal of Pump” under “Water 
Pumps,” page 80.) 

Remove the drive shaft for the water pumps. (See “Removal” under 
“Drive Shaft for Water Pumps,” page 90.) 

Remove the drain plug from the oil pan and drain out the oil. 
Remove the oil pan and the baffle plate. (See “Removal” under 
“Oil Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78.) 







REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


69 


Remove the spiral gear and the shaft which drives the oil pump. 
(See “Removal” under “Spiral Gear for Oil Pump Drive,” page 70.) 

Remove the fan. (See “Removal” under “Fan,” page 70). 

Remove the front cover plate. (See “Removal” under “Front 
Cover Plate,” page 75.) 

Remoye the camshaft driving chain. (See “Removal” under 
“Camshaft Driving Chain,” page 64.) 

Remove the four cylinder head nuts which hold the brackets of the 
high tension conduits. Remove the distributor head and the low ten¬ 
sion wire and remove the conduits with brackets, wires and head. 

Remove the distributor rotor. This may be done by lifting it 
straight up. If the rotor sticks on the shaft force it off with two small 
screw drivers. The rotor is recessed on the under side at two points to 
receive screw drivers in removing. Lift both sides evenly and carefully. 

Loosen the cap screw on the left rear corner of the fanshaft housing 
and remove the remaining three cap screws. Remove the two threaded 
dowel pins which position the fanshaft housing on the crankcase. 
These may be removed by placing over them spring washers large 
enough to permit the pins to be pulled through them and screwing on 
and tightening Kg inch x 18 nuts. 

Remove the nut “I” Fig. 22 (left-hand thread) and with a puller 
remove the camshaft sprocket, at the same time sliding forward the 
fanshaft housing with distributor housing attached. 

Remove the connecting rods and pistons. (See “Removal” under 
“Connecting Rods,” page 82.) 

Remove the cylinder blocks. (See “Removal” under “Cylinder 
Blocks,” page 60). 

Remove the oil pressure regulator. 

Remove the top cover plate. (See “Removal” under “Top Cover 
Plate,” page 76.) 

Remove the locking screw “M,” Fig. 22. 

Remove the camshaft and the forward camshaft bearing by pulling 
the shaft straight forward. If the bearing is tight in the crankcase it 
may be necessary to tap the shaft lightly. 

Remove the flywheel. (See “Removal” under “Flywheel,” page 92.) 

Remove the crankshaft. (See “Removal” under “Crankshaft,” 
page 87.) 

Remove the oil manifolds from the crankcase. 

Inspection 

Inspect all parts in accordance with directions in this book. 

Reassembly and Replacement 

In reassembling and replacing the engine, reverse operations under 
“Disassembly” and under “Removal.” 




70 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


After tightening the nuts on the large bolts which hold the rear end 
of the engine to the frame, loosen them one notch and replace the cotter 
pins. 

FAN 

Removal 

Remove the radiator. (See “Removal” under “Radiator,” page 
103.) 

Remove the nut “R,” Fig. 22. (Left-hand thread.) 

The fan with hub can now be removed by pulling it straight for¬ 
ward. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Fan —After cleaning the fan inspect the surfaces 
against which the friction discs press, also the rivets at the rim of the 
fan and at the center. 

After the fan is put back and the engine is started, note if the fan 
runs true. If it does not it should be trued up. 

Inspection of Other Parts- There should be no more than 
.005 inch clearance between the fanshaft and the bushings in the fan 
hub. The oil hole “L” in the fanshaft, Fig. 22, should be cleaned if 
necessary. 

Replacement 

Before replacing the fan, fill with cup grease the recesses in the 
friction members riveted to the fan and lubricate with engine oil the 
friction discs which press against these members. Also lubricate the 
thrust washers with cup grease. 

In replacing the fan reverse the operations under “Removal.” 

SPIRAL GEAR FOR OIL PUMP DRIVE 

Removal 

Remove the oil pan and the baffle plate. (See “Removal” under 
“Oil Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78.) 

Remove the front cover. (See “Removal” under “Front Cover,” 
page 75.) 

Determine the amount of clearance between the teeth of the gear to 
be removed and those of the gear with which it meshes. (See under 
“Inspection.”) 

Remove the taper pin “0,” Fig. 22. 

Remove the shaft “P.” To do so tap it forward carefully. 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts. 

There should be no more than .018 inch clearance between the 
teeth of the gear just removed and those of the gear with which it 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


71 


meshes. The bearing surfaces of the drive shaft, and those of the 
bushings in which it rotates should be free from scores. There should 
be no more than .004 inch between the shaft and bushings. If neces¬ 
sary to replace either bushing drive it out carefully. Unless very great 
care is exercised in removing and replacing, there is a possibility of 
cracking the aluminum. 

Examine the oil holes to each bushing. Clean out if obstructed. 

Examine the faces of the thrust washer. They should be free from 
scores. 

The gear should have no more than .008 inch end play. 

The driving tongue at the forward end of the shaft should be no 
more than .004 inch narrower than the groove in the oil pump gear 
with which it meshes. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

After replacing oil pan, refill with one and one half gallons of engine 
oil of a suitable quality. Cadillac Motor oil is recommended. 

If, after starting the engine, it is found that the pressure gauge does 
not register pressure, stop the engine at once and prime the oil pump. 
This may be done by disconnecting, at its upper end, the oil pipe from 
the oil pressure regulator and forcing two to three gunfuls of clean 
engine oil into the pipe. Connect the pipe and tighten the union 
before starting the engine.. 

CYLINDER HEADS 

Removal 

Drain the cooling system. (See under “Draining the Cooling 
System,” page 34.) 

Remove the hose connections from the cylinder head. 

Disconnect the high tension wires from the spark plugs and remove 
the conduit brackets from the cylinder head. Remove the forward 
end of the conduit from the aluminum cap by pulling the conduit out. 
Lay the conduit with wires back out of the way. 

Remove the spark plugs. Remove the twenty nuts by which the 
cylinder head is held to the block. 

Remove the cylinder head and the gasket. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Head and Gasket —Inspect the machined surfaces 
of the cylinder head. Inspect the gasket. Do not use the gasket 
again unless you are sure it is in condition for further use. Ordinarily 
a gasket may be used several times unless it is injured in removing. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the cylinder bores. Cylin¬ 
der bores should be free from scores. 




72 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Examine the machined face of the cylinder which presses against 
the gasket. 

Replacement 

With a soft iron scraper remove all carbon from the cylinder head, 
cylinder and piston heads. 

After replacing the head, screw on the twenty hold-down nuts by 
hand. Then begin with the center nut in the middle row, work to¬ 
wards the ends, tightening the nuts lightly with a wrench. Then do the 
same with the nuts on the inner row, and finally with those on the outer 
row. After all nuts are tightened lightly, go over them again, tighten¬ 
ing them firmly? 

In refilling the cooling system follow directions under “Filling 
Cooling System,” page 34.) 

FANSHAFT HOUSING 

Removal 

Remove the fan. (See “Removal” under “Fan,” page 70.) 

Remove the distributor and timer. (See “Removal” under “Dis¬ 
tributor and Timer,” page 100.) 

Remove the fanshaft. (See “Removal” under “Fanshaft and Bear¬ 
ings,” page 59.) 

Remove the two dowel pins which locate the fanshaft housing on 
the crankcase. To remove the dowel pins place spring washers over 
the pins large enough to permit the pins to be pulled through them, 
and screw on and tighten inch x 18 nuts. 

Remove the four cap screws by which the fanshaft housing is held 
to the crankcase and the two cap screws by which the housing is held 
to the front cover plate. 

The housing can now be removed. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with gasoline or kerosene. 

Inspection of Fanshaft Housing— Examine the machined sur¬ 
faces of the housing. Also examine the casting. 

The annular ball bearings should be a hand press fit in the housing. 

Inspection of Other Parts— Inspect the fanshaft and fanshaft 
bearings. (See “Inspection of Fanshaft and Bearings,” under “Fan- 
shaft and Bearings,” page 60.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

After replacing the distributor and timer, retime the ignition and 
place ten ounces of number two cup grease in the housing. The 
grease may be put in after removing the breather “Z,” Fig. 34. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


73 


INTAKE MANIFOLD 

Removal 

Drain the cooling system. (See under “Draining the Cooling 
System,” page 34.) 

Unscrew the four unions connecting the small copper tubes to the 
front face of the manifold. 

Remove the two cap screws holding the carburetor to the mani¬ 
fold. 

Remove the two cap screws holding each intake manifold flange to a 
cylinder block. 

The intake manifold can now be removed. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Intake Manifold— After cleaning the manifold 
inspect the finished surfaces against which the carburetor and cylinder 
blocks are bolted. The surfaces must be in good condition and per¬ 
fectly flat to prevent air leaks at these points. 

Inspect the water jacket of the manifold for leaks. This may be 
done by filling the manifold with water, then temporarily plugging 
three of the union nipples and applying water under approximately 
forty pounds pressure through the remaining nipple. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the surface of the carburetor 
and the surface of the cylinder blocks which bolt against the mani¬ 
fold. These surfaces must be in good condition and perfectly flat. 

Replacement 

In replacing the intake manifold, reverse the operations under 
“Removal.” Make sure that all gaskets are in good condition, also 
that the cap screws holding the manifold to the cylinder blocks and the 
carburetor to the manifold are well tightened to prevent air leaks. 

PISTON PINS 

Removal 

Remove the piston and connecting rod. (See “Removal” under 
“Connecting Rods,” page 82.) 

The piston pin can be removed by pressing it out by hand after the 
small set screw in the piston pin support is removed. 

Inspection 

Thoroughly clean all parts with gasoline or kerosene and wipe them 
off with a cloth. 

There should be no more than .003 inch clearance between the 
piston pin and the bushing and no more than .0015 inch clearance 
between the piston pin and the piston. 





74 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Replacement 

To facilitate replacement of the screw which locks the piston pin, 
place the piston on the rod so that the piston pin support, with the 
screw, is on the side of the rod with the longer piston pin boss. 

PISTON AND PISTON RINGS 

Removal 

Remove the connecting rods with pistons from the engine and the 
pistons from the connecting rods. (See “Removal” under “Connecting 
Rods,” page 82.) 

With hack saw blades as shown in 
Fig. 26, remove the piston rings. The teeth 
should be ground from the saw blades to 
prevent injury to the piston and rings. 

Care must be used in removing the rings 
not to strain them. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with gasoline or kerosene. 

Inspection of Piston and Rings— 

Pistons should be free from scores and 
round within .002 inch. The difference in 
width between the piston rings and the 
grooves should not exceed .003 inch. 

Piston pins should have no more than 
.0015 inch clearance in the piston. 

There should be no more than .007 
inch clearance between the cylinder and 
the skirt of the piston and no more than .020 
inch clearance between the ends of the rings 
when the piston is in place in the cylinder. 

Inspection of Other Parts —If wear on a piston seems to 
indicate that the connecting rod is sprung or twisted, test the rod for 
alignment. (See “Inspection of Rods” under “Connecting Rods,” 
page 83.) 

Inspect the piston pin. (See “Inspection” under “Piston Pins,” 
page 73.) 

Inspect the piston pin bushings. (See “Inspection of Rods” under 
“Connecting Rods,” page 83.) 

Inspect the crank pin bearing. (See “Inspection of Bearing” under 
“Crank Pin Bearings,” page 57.) 

Inspect the crank pin. The crank pin should be round within 
.003 inch and free from scores; if it is not, it should be dressed down. 
(See under “Dressing Down Crankshaft Bearing Surfaces,” page 11.) 



Fig. 26—Removing Piston Rings. 
















REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


75 


A new standard or undersize bearing should be fitted if there is more 
than .006 inch clearance between the pin and the bearing after the 
work is completed. (See under “Fitting Crank Pin Bearings/’ page 10.) 

Inspect the cylinder bores. Cylinder bores should be round within 
.002 inch and free from scores. 

Replacement 

With a scraper clean the carbon from the piston head, rings and 
ring grooves. 

Clean all parts carefully and lubricate all bearing surfaces with 
engine oil of suitable quality. 

Be careful to replace the connecting rod as originally assembled 
into the engine. Connecting rods are numbered on the channel 
section (see “C,” Figs. 28 and 29), indicating the cylinders into which 
they go. Number one forked rod and number one straight rod go into 
cylinders nearest the radiator. Number two forked rod and number 
two straight rod in cylinders just back of these, etc. The numbers on 
the channel sections of the rods should face downward, and the num¬ 
bered ends of the crank pin bearings should face to the rear. 

All nuts and bolts and both caps of forked rods are numbered. 
One bolt and nut only and the cap of the straight connecting rod are 
numbered. Bolts, nuts and caps should be replaced in accordance 
with these numbers. 

Care should be exercised that the dowel pins in the forked rods are 
in the pin holes in the bearing before tightening the cap nuts. 

The following will serve to check the assembly of the connecting 
rods and crank pin bearings. The forked connecting rods should be 
on the left-hand side of the engine. The edges of the crank pin bearing 
halves where they come together should be in the horizontal plane 
when the pistons attached to the forked rods are on upper and lower 
centers. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the two 
center connecting rods in each cylinder block should face toward each 
other. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the end 
connecting rods in each cylinder block should face from each other. 

In adjusting the straight connecting rod follow directions under 
“Adjustment of Connecting Rod Bearings,” page 9.) 

After replacing the oil pan refill it with one and one-half gallons of 
engine oil of a suitable quality. Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended. 

FRONT COVER PLATE 

Removal 

Remove the radiator. (See “Removal” under “Radiator,” page 103.) 

Remove the hood shelves, also the splash pan at the front of the 
radiator. 




76 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the splash pan under the engine. 

Remove the fan. (See “Removal” under “Fan,” page 70.) 

Remove the air compressor cylinder and piston from the front 
cover plate. To remove the cylinder, first disconnect the air pipe, then 
remove the two small hold-down nuts. To remove the piston, crank 
the engine over by hand until the piston is at the top of its stroke, then 
move it forward. 

Remove the cap of the front engine support. 

Remove the two small nuts which hold each oil pump elbow flange 
to the crankcase. 

Disconnect the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds. 

Jack up the front end of the engine about four inches. 

Remove the two dowel pins which position the cover plate on the 
crankcase. These pins may be removed by placing over them spring 
washers large enough to permit the pins to be pulled through, then 
screwing on and tightening % inch x 16 nuts. 

Mark the twelve cap screws holding the cover plate in place and 
remove the screws. 

Remove the cover plate. 

Inspection 

Clean the cover plate with kerosene or gasoline. 

Carefully inspect all machined surfaces, also the gasket between the 
plate and crankcase. 

Make sure that the starting shaft works freely in its bearings. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

Be certain that the twelve cap screws which hold the cover plate 
to the crankcase are replaced as originally assembled. 

TOP COVER PLATE 

Removal 

Remove the intake manifold with carburetor. (See “Removal” 
under “Intake Manifold,” page 73, and under “Carburetor,” page 105.) 
It is unnecessary, however, to remove the carburetor from the manifold, 
or to drop the drain pocket located under the carburetor. 

Remove the motor generator. (See “Removal of Motor Generator” 
under “Motor Generator,” page 97.) 

Remove the distributor and timer. (See “Removal” under “Dis¬ 
tributor and Timer,” page 100.) 

Remove the oil level dial. This may be done after the two small 
cap screws holding it to the cover plate are removed. 

Drain the oil pan by removing the drain plug “K,” Fig. 22. It is 
not absolutely necessary to drain the oil pan, but doing so allows the 




'REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


77 


float and float tube to drop, reducing the amount exposed above the 
cover plate. This is desirable as there is less likelihood of damaging 
the tube. 

Remove the small red ball at the top end of the indicator tube. 
This may be done by tapping lightly upon the under side of the ball. 

Remove the unions connecting the drain pipes to the drain pocket 
under the carburetor, and push the pipes to one side out of the way. 

Remove the drain pocket. 

Remove the nuts holding the cover plate to the crankcase, also the 
threaded dowel pin at each end of the cover plate. To remove a 
threaded dowel pin, place over it a spring washer large enough to permit 
the pin to be pulled through it, then screw on and tighten a % 6 inch 
x 18 nut. 

Remove the cylinder heads. (See “Removal” under “Cylinder 
Heads,” page 71.) 

Raise all sixteen valves and hold them in the raised position. This 
may be done with tools number 69283 furnished by the Cadillac Motor 
Car Company. If these tools are not at hand remove all sixteen valves. 
(See “Removal” under “Valves and Valve Springs,” page 91.) 

Remove the clamps holding the cam slide bushings in place and 
raise the cam slides and bushings. 

The top cover plate can be removed by lifting it straight up and 
at the same time cranking the engine over very slowly. Both ends of 
the cover plate must be lifted evenly. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with gasoline or kerosene 

Inspection of Top Cover Plate —Inspect the cover plate. 

Test with a straightedge the machined surfaces which bolt against 
the crankcase. 

The bronze bushings in which the rocker arm shafts are held should 
be tight in the aluminum. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the rocker arms and rocker 
arm shafts. (See “Inspection of Rocker Arms and Shafts” under 
“Rocker Arms and Shafts,” page 55.) 

Inspect the cams. They should show practically no wear. 

Replacement 

Make sure that the gasket between the plate and crankcase is in 
good condition. 

In replacing, reverse the operations under “Removal.” 

After replacing distributor and timer, retime the ignition (see 
under “Timing Ignition,” page 23) and put ten ounces of number 





78 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT* 


two cup grease into the distributor housing. Th’is may be done after 
removing the breather “Z,” Fig. 34. 

Refill the oil pan with one and one-half gallons of suitable engine 
oil after replacing it. Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended. 

OIL PAN AND BAFFLE PLATE 

Removal 

Remove the splash pan under the engine. 

Drain the oil pan. This is done by removing the plug “K,” Fig. 22. 

Remove the twenty-seven nuts holding the oil pan to the crankcase, 
and remove the oil pan, being careful not to injure the cork gasket 
between the oil pan and the baffle plate. 

Remove the oil float with the tube to which it is soldered. The 
small red ball at the upper end of the float tube will prevent the tube 
dropping down. The ball may be removed, however, by pushing the 
float up an inch or so and pulling it down, repeating the operation until 
the ball is forced off. 

Remove the two nuts which hold the baffle plate to the oil suction 
pipe which extends down into the oil pan. 

Remove the baffle plate, being careful not to injure the cork gasket 
between the baffle plate and crankcase. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Oil Pan and Baffle Plate —With gasoline or 
kerosene clean the oil pan and baffle plate. Make a careful inspection 
of these parts, also of the cork gaskets. The oil pan should be free from 
dents. The surface which presses against the gasket must be in good 
condition. 

The screen of the baffle plate must be free from injury. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Make sure that the unions are tight 
on all of the oil pipes inside of the crankcase. To determine this try 
them with a wrench. 

Determine if the float contains oil. If it does it may be repaired by 
soldering it after the oil has been drained out. 

If the float tube is bent in removing, straighten it before replacing. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

To replace the red ball on the upper end of the indicator tube, it is 
necessary to remove the oil indicator, which can be done by removing 
the two screws. The red ball is a taper fit on the oil tube and should 
be tapped in place lightly. 

After replacing the oil pan, refill it with one and one-half gallons of 
suitable engine oil. Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


79 


If after starting the engine it is found that the oil pressure gauge 
does not register pressure, stop the engine at once and prime the oil 
pump. This may be done by disconnecting, at its upper end, the oil 
pipe from the oil pressure regulator and forcing two to three gunfuls 
of clean engine oil into the pipe. Connect the pipe and tighten the 
union before starting the engine. 

OIL PUMP 

Removal 

Remove the splash pan under the engine. 

With gasoline or kerosene wash the pump and the front end of the 
engine around the pump. 

Remove the two small nuts on each pump flange and the four small 
nuts by which the body of the pump is held to the front cover plate. 

Remove the pump by pulling it straight forward. The pump will 
come off easily if both ends are removed evenly. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with kerosene or gasoline, and inspect the pump 
body and elbows. 

There should be no more than .004 inch clearance between the teeth 
of the pump gears and the pump body, no more than .004 inch clearance 
between the bearings at each end of the pump gears and the .bushings 
in which they operate, and no more than .006 inch end play in the pump 
gears. There should be no more than .004 inch clearance between the 
tongue on the drive shaft for the oil pump and the slot in the lower 
pump gear. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal,” first making 
sure that all gaskets are in good condition, also that the surfaces which 
press against these gaskets are clean. 

If Cadillac made gaskets are not procurable make gaskets of paper 
.009 inch to .011 inch in thickness. If the gaskets are too thick, too 
much end play in the pump gears will be permitted resulting in a less 
efficient pump. All three gaskets must be made of paper of equal 
thickness. 

If after starting the engine it is found that the pressure gauge does 
not register pressure, stop the engine at once and prime the oil pump. 
This may be done by disconnecting, at its upper end, the oil pipe from 
the oil pressure regulator and forcing two to three gunfuls of clean 
engine oil into the pipe. Connect the pipe and tighten the union before 
starting the engine. 






80 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


WATER PUMPS 

Removal of Pump 

Drain the cooling system. (See under “Draining the Cooling 
System,” page 34.) 

Remove the splash pan under the engine. 

Disconnect at the water pump all hose connections, also the copper 
pipe to the intake manifold. 

Remove the two nuts which hold the pump to the crankcase. 

The pump can now be removed. Remove both sides evenly. 

Removal of Thermostat 

Remove the pump. (See under “Removal of Pump,” on this page.) 
Remove the thermostat housing cap “R,” Fig. 27. 

Remove the large brass nut “F” and the shaft “L.” 



Fig. 27—Water Pump, Sectional ViSw. 










REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


81 


Remove the cap screws “G” on the thermostat housing “N,” 
and remove the thermostat housing with valves and thermostat. 
Be careful not to injure the thermostat in removing. 

Loosen the lock nut “M.” 

Remove the thermostat from the valves by unscrewing the ther¬ 
mostat. 

Removal of Thermostat Valve 

Drain the cooling system. (See under “Draining the Cooling 
System,” page 34.) 

Disconnect at the water pump, hose connections “P” and “B,” 
Fig. 27, also copper pipe “A.” 

Remove the thermostat housing cap “R.” 

Loosen the lock nut “M.” 

The valve may now be removed by unscrewing. 

Removal of Pump Impeller 

Remove the pump. (See under “Removal of Pump,” page 80.) 
Remove the pump cover “Y.” Fig. 27. 

The impeller with shaft may then be removed. The pump shaft 
is held to the pump impeller by a taper pin. The shaft may be forced 
out of the impeller with a press after the pin is removed. 

Inspection 

Test the thermostat by immersing it in water at a temperature of 
between forty degrees and sixty degrees Fahrenheit, then immersing 
it in water heated to a temperature of one hundred and eighty degrees. 
If the thermostat is in good condition it should expand three-sixteenths 
inch. Make sure that the thermostat is clean between the coils and 
in good condition otherwise. 

Inspect the valves “C,” Fig. 27, and the valve seats. Remove any 
rust or scale which has accummulated and regrind the valves if neces¬ 
sary. 

The pump impeller and the bushings in which it operates, should be 
free from scores. The clearance between the shaft and either bushing 
should not exceed .006 inch. If it is necessary to remove the bushing 
which has the packing gland on its outer end, drive it out with a soft 
brass drift, after first driving out the % 6 inch x % 6 inch brass pin “I.” 
The bushing in the pump cover may be removed by pulling it out. 
This bushing is not pined. 

The pump impeller should have no more than .010 inch clearance 
in the pump body with the pump cover in place. 

Examine the packing in the gland “O.” If it is necessary to repack the 
gland follow directions under “Water Pump Packing Glands,” page 35. 





82 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal/’ 

If the adjustment between the valves “C,” Fig. 27, and the thermo¬ 
stat “D” has been altered, readjust in accordance with directions under 
“Adjustment of Thermostat Valves,” page 35. 

OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR 

Removal 

Remove the oil pipe from the regulator by unscrewing the union. 
Remove the four one-fourth inch nuts and washers holding the 
regulator to the crank case and remove the regulator. 

Unscrew the cap from the regulator and remove the spring and ball. 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts. 

Examine the ball. It should be clean and free from pits. 

Examine the ball seat. The seat should be free from pits. It can 
be removed from the housing by driving it out carefully. 

Examine the one-sixteenth inch by-pass hole in the housing. (See 
Fig. 53.) The by-pass has an outlet in the hole through which oil 
passes to the pressure gauge pipe. The by-pass should be cleaned if 
obstructed. 

The valve spring should have a free length of two and seven- 
eighths inches and should support a load of between six and one-half and 
seven and one-half pounds when compressed to one and three-fourths 
inches. 

The surfaces of the housing which bolt against the crankcase should 
be in good condition. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

If the regulator is in proper adjustment after installation the pres¬ 
sure gauge on the instrument board will indicate a pressure of between 
five and seven pounds when the engine is warm, idling at approximately 
300 revolutions per minute, and the oil in the engine is of a suitable 
quality and fresh. Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended. If a higher 
or lower oil pressure is - indicated, readjustment should be made in 
accordance with direction under “Adjustment of Oil Pressure Regula¬ 
tion,” page 154.) 

CONNECTING RODS 

Removal 

Remove the oil pan and the baffle plate. (See “Removal” under 
“Oil Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78.) 

Open the compression cocks. 





REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


83 


Remove the cotter pins and the two nuts from the cap of the straight 
connecting rod. Remove the cap, being careful not to mix the liners. 

Remove the rod and piston. Care must be exercised not to damage 
the piston in removing it. Do not allow the skirt of the piston to 
fall against the connecting rod. 

Remove the cotter pins and the two nuts from each cap of the forked 
connecting rod and remove the caps. 

Remove the rod and piston, being careful not to damage the piston 
or to allow the halves of the connecting rod bearing to drop. 

Remove the bearing halves. 

Remove the pistons from the connecting rods. This can be done 
by first removing the small set screw in the piston pin boss and pushing 
out the pin by hand. 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Rods —The piston pin bushing should be free from 
scores. There should be no more than .003 inch clearance between the 
pin and the bushing. If it is necessary to replace the bushing proceed 
as follows: With a press force out the used bushing and force in the 
new one, being sure that the oil holes line up. Be careful not to spring 
the rod. Then ream the new bushing, using a three-fourths inch reamer. 
The size of the bushing when reamed should be between .7495 inch and 
.7502 inch. The rod should be tested for alignment after the bushing 
is in place and reamed. 

The bearing at the lower end of the forked connecting rod must 
clamp in the rod. To cause this the diameter of that portion of the 
bearing which is held in the rod must be .001 inch greater than the rod 
diameter, taken lengthwise of the rod. If the bearing is not clamped, 
the caps on the rod may be reduced by rubbing them carefully over 
fine emery cloth stretched tightly over a machined surface plate. 

The bearings in the upper and lower ends of the rods should be 
parallel and in the same plane. 

To test the forked connecting rod for alignment, proceed as follows: 

Clamp the bearing into the lower end of the rod, being sure that it 
is clamped properly. The numbered end of the bearing should be to 
your right when the rod is held large end down and with the number 
on the channel section (see Fig. 28) toward you. Lightly force a tight 
fitting mandrel into the bearings at each end. The mandrel should 
be at least 6 inches long. Lay two parallel bars on a face plate and the 
connecting rod with the mandrels on the parallel bars as shown in 
Fig. 28. The mandrels should lay on the parallel bars squarely at all 
four points. To determine if the bearings are parallel take measure¬ 
ments “A” and “B.” The mandrels should be parallel within .001 inch 






84 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


in their length of 6 inches. A dial indicator can be used in making 
this test. 

To test the straight rod for alignment, bolt the cap in place, then 
lightly force a tight fitting mandrel into the upper and lower bearings 
and proceed as in testing the forked rod. (See Fig. 29.) 

If the bearings are not in the same plane, or are not parallel, the 
rod may be trued up by holding it in a vise, being careful to protect it 
with blocks of wood, and with a wrench springing it. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the crank pin bearing. 
(See “Inspection of Bearing” under “Crank Pin Bearings, page 57.) 





































































































REMOVAL,INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


85 


Inspect the crank pin. The crank pin should be round within 
.003 inch and free from scores; if it is not it should be dressed down. 
(See under “Dressing Down Crankshaft Bearing Surfaces/’ page 11.) 
A new undersize bearing should be fitted if there is more than .006 inch 
clearance between the used bearing and pin, after the work is completed. 
(See under “Fitting Crank Pin Bearings,” page 10.) 

Inspect the pistons and the piston rings in accordance with direc¬ 
tions under “Piston and Piston Rings,” page 74. 

Inspect the piston pins. (See “Inspection” under “Piston Pins,” 
page 73.) 

Inspect the cylinder bores. They should be round within .002 
inch and free from scores. 

Replacement 

With a cloth carefully wipe off the pistons, connecting rods, and 
bearings and lubricate the bearing surfaces with engine oil of a suitable 
quality. 

To facilitate replacement of the screws which lock the piston pins, 
pistons should be so placed on the rods that the supports which have 
the screws are on the sides of the rods which have the longer piston 
pin bushing bosses. 

In replacing, reverse the operations given under “Removal.” 

Connecting rods are numbered on the channel section (see “C,” 
Figs. 28 and 29), indicating the cylinders into which they go. Number 
one forked rod and number one straight r,od go into cylinders nearest 
the radiator; number two forked rod and number two straight rod into 
cylinders just back of these, etc. The numbers on the channel sections 
of the rods should face downward, and the numbered ends of the 
bearings at the lower ends of the rods should face to the rear. 

Care should be exercised that the dowel pins in the forked rod are 
in the pin holes in the bearing before the cap nuts are tightened. 

All nuts and bolts and both bearing caps on the forked rods are 
numbered. One bolt and nut and the cap only of the straight rod are 
numbered. Bolts, nuts and caps should be replaced in accordance 
with these numbers. 

The following will serve to check the assembly of the connecting 
rods and crank pin bearings: The forked connecting rods should be 
on the left-hand side of the engine. The edges of the crank pin bearing 
halves where they come together should be in the horizontal plane 
when the pistons attached to the forked rods are on upper and lower 
centers. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the two 
center connecting rods in each cylinder block should face toward each 
other. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the end 
connecting rods in each cylinder block should face from each other. 






86 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


In adjusting the straight connecting rod follow directions under 
“Adjustment of Connecting Rod Bearings,” page 9. 

After replacing the oil pan, refill it with one and one-half gallons of 
suitable engine oil. Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended. 

CAMSHAFT 

Removal 

Remove the camshaft driving chain. (See “Removal” under 
“Camshaft Driving Chain,” page 64.) 

Remove the eccentric nut “I,” Fig. 22 (left-hand thread). 

Remove the carburetor. (See “Removal” under “Carburetor,” 
page 105.) 

Remove the generator drive shaft “A,” Fig. 22. 

Disconnect the timer control rod. 

Remove the two cylinder head nuts which hold the brackets on the 
left-hand high tension conduit. Loosen the small screws of the brack¬ 
ets which hold the right-hand conduit. Remove the distributor head 
and the low tension wire and lift the left-hand conduit with wires and 
head over to the right side. 

Remove the distributor rotor. This may be done by lifting it 
straight up. If the rotor sticks on the shaft, force it off with two 
small screw drivers. The rotor is recessed on the under side at two 
points to receive screw drivers in removing. Lift both sides of the 
rotor evenly and lift it carefully. 

Loosen the cap screw on ; the left rear corner of the fan shaft housing 
and remove the remaining three cap screws. 

Remove the two threaded dowel pins. This may be done by 
placing a spring washer over them large enough to permit the pins to be 
pulled through them and screwing on and tightening 5 / ie inch x 18 nuts. 

With a puller remove the camshaft sprocket, at the same time 
sliding forward the fanshaft housing with the distributor and 
timer attached. 

Remove the top cover plate. (See “Removal” under “Top Cover 
Plate,” page 76.) 

Remove the set screw “M.” 

Remove the camshaft and the forward camshaft bearing by pulling 
the shaft straight forward. If the bearing is tight in the crankcase 
it may be necessary to tap the shaft lightly. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Camshaft— Clean the shaft with gasoline or 
kerosene and wipe it off with a cloth. 

Inspect the oil hole at the forward end of the shaft, cleaning it out 
if necessary. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


87 


Inspect the cams carefully. They should show practically no 
wear. 

All bearing surfaces of the camshaft should be round within .003 
inch and free from scores. The clearance between the camshaft and 
the bearings should not exceed .005 inch. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the camshaft bearings in 
the crankcase. The bearing surfaces should be free from scores. If it 
is necessary to replace one of the three center bearings tap it out and 
carefully tap in the new bearing. If it is necessary to replace the 
rear bearing, first remove the flywheel (see “Removal” under “Fly¬ 
wheel,” page 92), then remove the cap “N.” The bearing may then 
be driven out from the rear. Be sure that the oil hole in the bearing 
lines up with the oil hole in the crankcase. 

Inspect the rocker arms and rocker arm shaft. (See “Inspection of 
Rocker Arms and Shafts” under “Rocker Arms and Shafts,” page 55.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

Be sure to replace the camshaft driving chain correctly. (See 
“Replacement” under “Camshaft Driving Chain,” page 65.) 

CRANKSHAFT 

Removal 

Remove the top cover plate. (See “Removal” under “Top Cover 
Plate,” page 76.) 

Remove the camshaft driving chain. (See “Removal” under 
“Camshaft Driving Chain,” page 64.) 

Remove the flywheel. (See “Removal” under “Flywheel,” page 
92.) 

Remove the cover “Q,” Fig. 22, at the rear end of the crankcase. 

Remove the connecting rods and pistons. (See “Removal” under 
“Connecting Rods,” page 82.) 

Determine the amount of clearance between the teeth of the spiral 
gear on the crankshaft and those of the gear with which it meshes. 
(See under “Inspection.”) 

Remove the main bearings, being careful that the shaft does not 
drop. (See “Removal” under “Main Bearings,” page 58.) 

Carefully tap up the main bearing bolts until their lower ends are 
flush with the machined surfaces against which the liners are held. 

The crankshaft can now be removed. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Crankshaft —Remove the seventeen small plug 
screws by unscrewing them with a large screw driver and clean out 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


the oil ways thoroughly. Replace the plugs and tighten, locking them 
by making a fairly light punch mark between the shaft and each screw. 

Wash the shaft with gasoline or kerosene and inspect all bearing 
surfaces. If any of the bearing surfaces are cut, or out of round more 
than .003 inch they should be dressed down. (See under “Dressing 
Down Crankshaft Bearing Surfaces,” page 11.) If after dressing 
down a crank pin there is more than .006 inch clearance between the 
pin and the crank pin bearing, a new standard or undersize bearing 
should be fitted. (See under “Fitting Crank Pin Bearings,” page 10.) 

End play in a crank pin bearing should not exceed .015 inch. The 
clearance between a crank pin bearing and the crank pin should not 
exceed .006 inch. There is no adjustment on crank pin bearings. 
Crank pin bearings .005 inch undersize are furnished by the Cadillac 
Motor Car Company. 

The end thrust of the crankshaft is taken by the rear main bearing. 
The crankshaft should have no more than .020 inch end play in this 
bearing. 

Place the shaft on lathe centers. It should run out of true no more 
than .004 inch at the center bearing. 

Inspection of Other Parts— Examine the oil hole in the spiral 
gear on the crankshaft. Clean out if obstructed. 

Inspect the main and crank pin bearings. (See “Inspection of 
Bearing” under “Main Bearings” and under “Crank Pin Bearings,” 
pages 57 and 59.) 

Inspect the pistons and piston rings. (See “ Inspection of Piston 
and Rings” under “Piston and Piston Rings,” page 74.) If the wear 
on a piston seems to indicate that the rod is sprung or twisted, test the 
rod for alignment. (See “Inspection of Rods” under “Connecting Rods,” 
page 83.) 

Inspect the cylinder bores. They should be round within .002 
inch and free from scores. 

When the crankshaft is in place there should be no more than .018 
inch clearance between the teeth of spiral gear on the shaft and those of 
the gear with which it meshes. 

Inspect the camshaft and fanshaft driving chains and sprockets. 
(See “Inspection of Chain” under “Camshaft Driving Chain,” page 
64, and under “Fanshaft Driving Chain,” page 66.) 

Inspect the flywheel. (See “Inspection” under “Flywheel,” page 
93). 

Inspect the annular ball bearing at the rear end of the crankshaft. 
The races should rotate smoothly and quietly and have no more than 
.015 inch end play. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


89 


Replacement 

Before replacing the shaft, wipe it off with a cloth and lubricate the 
bearing surfaces with engine oil of a suitable quality. 

In replacing, reverse the operations under “Removal.” 

The main bearings are numbered on one end. The bearing nearest 
to the radiator is stamped “1,” the center bearing “2” and the rear 
bearing “3.” In replacing, have the numbered ends toward the 
radiator. In adjusting the main bearings follow directions under 
“Adjustment of Main Crankshaft Bearings,” page 9.) 

Be careful to replace the connecting rod as originally assembled into 
the engine. Connecting rods are numbered on the channel section 
(see “C,” Figs. 28 and 29), indicating the cylinders into which they go. 
Number one forked rod and number one straight rod go into cylinders 
nearest radiator; number two forked rod and number two straight rod 
go into cylinders just back of these, etc. When placed in the engine the 
numbers on the channel sections of the rods should face downward, 
and the numbered ends of the bearings at the lower ends of the rods 
should face to the rear. 

All nuts and bolts and both bearing caps of forked rods are num¬ 
bered. One bolt and nut only, and the cap of straight rods are num¬ 
bered. Bolts, nuts and caps should be replaced in accordance with 
these numbers. Care should be exercised that the dowel pins in the 
forked rods are in the pin holes in the bearings before the cap nuts are 
tightened. 

The following will serve to check the assembly of the connecting 
rods and crank pin bearings. The forked connecting rods should be 
on the left-hand side of the engine. The edges of the crank pin bearing 
halves where they come together should be in the horizontal plane 
when the pistons attached to the forked rods are on upper and lower 
centers. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the two 
center connecting rods in each cylinder block should face toward each 
other. The longer piston pin bosses on the upper ends of the end 
connecting rods in each cylinder block should face from each other. 

In adjusting the straight connecting rods follow directions under 
“Adjustment of Connecting Rod Bearings,” page 9. 

After replacing the oil pan refill it with one and one-half gallons of 
suitable engine oil. Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended. 

If after starting the engine it is found that the pressure gauge does 
not register pressure, stop the engine at once and prime the oil pump. 
This may be done by disconnecting, at its upper end, the oil pipe from 
the oil pressure regulator and forcing two to three gunfuls of clean 




90 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


engine oil into the pipe. Connect the pipe and tighten the union 
before starting the engine. 

DRIVE SHAFT FOR WATER PUMPS 

Removal 

Remove the splash pan under the engine. 

Drain the cooling system. (See under “Draining the Cooling 
System,” page 34.) 

Remove the oil pan and the baffle plate. (See “Removal” under 
“Oil Pan and Baffle Plate,” page 78.) 

Determine the amount of clearance between the teeth of the gear 
on the drive shaft for the water pumps and those of the gears with which 
it meshes. (See under “Inspection.”) 

Remove one of the water pumps. (See “Removal of Pump” 
under “Water Pumps,” page 80.) 

Remove the set screw “A,” Fig. 23, holding the drive shaft bushing 
nearest the pump just removed and remove the bushing. 

Remove the drive shaft with gear and thrust bearing. 

The remaining drive shaft bushing can be removed if desired, after 
removing the remaining water pump and the set screw “A” which 
holds the bushing. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with kerosene or gasoline. 

Inspection of Drive Shaft, Gear, Bushings and Thrust Bear¬ 
ing —The drive shaft and the bushings in which it rotates should be 
free from scores. There should be no more than .006 inch clearance 
between the shaft and bushings. 

Inspect the balls of the thrust bearing, also the thrust washer and 
the side of the gear upon which the balls rotate. The balls should be 
free from pits and in good condition. The surfaces of the washer and 
gear should be free from pits and worn no more than .006 inch where 
the balls contact with them. If these parts are worn or pitted they 
may be reversed and used again. 

There should be no more than .018 inch clearance between the teeth 
of the gear and those of the gears with which it meshes. If it is neces¬ 
sary to remove the gear from the shaft do so with a press. Be sure in 
pressing on the gear that it stands exactly in the center of the shaft. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Examine the packing in the glands 
of the water pumps before replacing the pumps. (See under “Water 
Pump Packing Glands,” page 35.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

The grooved end of the shaft should be on the left side. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


91 


Be sure that the bushings are so placed that the pilots on the locking 
screws enter the holes in the bushings. 

With the bushings locked in place the drive shaft should have no 
less than .002 inch end play and no more than .005 inch. 

New drive shaft bushings are not drilled for locking screws. In 
installing new bushings make sure that their outer edges are equally 
distant from the faces of the crankcase, that the drive shaft has from 
.002 inch to .003 inch end play and that the inner oil holes of the bush¬ 
ings face up. Then locate positions for the holes for the set screws, 
remove the bushings and drill these holes.. Very great care must be 
exercised in positioning these holes. 

CAM SLIDES AND GUIDES 

Removal 

Remove the valve, over the cam slide and guide to be removed. 
(See “Removal” under “Valves and Valve Springs,” on this page.) 
The cam slide may then be lifted out. 

Remove the clamp which holds the guide for the cam slide and 
remove the guide. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Cam Slide and Guide —There should be no more 
than .004 inch clearance between a cam slide and the guide in which it 
operates. 

The upper face of the head of the cam slide adjusting screw should 
show very little wear. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the valves in accordance 
with directions in this book. (See “Inspection” under “Valves 
and Valve Springs,” page 92.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

Time the valves in accordance with directions in this book under 
“Adjustment of Cam Slide,” page 13.) 

VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS 

Removal 

Remove the cylinder head. (See “Removal” 
under “Cylinder Heads,” page 71.) 

Remove the carburetor. (See “Removal” under 
“Carburetor,” page 105.) 

Remove the valve cover plate. 

Force up washer “E,” Fig. 30, then remove the 
split collar “F.” Let the washer “E” down carefully 
and both sides’evenly. 








92 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


(If all valves in a block are to be removed at one time, and tool 
number 69283 furnished by the Cadillac Motor Car Company is at 
hand, all eight washers “E” may be lifted at one time and the washers 
and springs held in position while the collars and valves are removed 
and replaced.) 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with gasoline or kerosene. 

Inspection of Valves —Clean the valve seat in the cylinder block, 
and the bushing in which the valve stem operates. Any carbon on the 
valve stem, or in the bushing should be removed. 

There should be no more than .004 inch clearance between a valve 
stem and the valve stem bushing. 

Inspect the valve seat in the cylinder block and the surface of the 
valve which bears on the seat. If the valve or valve seat is pitted or 
if it appears that the valve has been leaking it should be reground. 
(See under “Grinding Valves,” page 14.) 

Inspect the valve spring. Valve springs should have a minimum 
free length of four and three-fourths inches and a minimum pressure 
of eighty-five pounds when compressed to three inches. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse the operations under “Removal.” 

The timing of the valves should be checked up after replacement is 
made. (See under “Adjustment of Cam Slide,” page 13.) 


FLYWHEEL 

Removal 

Remove the transmission. (See “Removal” under “Transmission,” 
page 121.) 

Remove the two five-sixteenths inch cap screws and clips holding 
the dowel pins in place. 

Remove the dowel pins. This may be done by placing spring 
washers over them large enough to permit the pins to be pulled through 
them and screwing on and tightening two of the nuts which hold 
the flywheel. 

Remove the six seven-sixteenths inch nuts which hold the flywheel 
to the crankshaft, and remove the felt washer retainer, steel washer, 
felt washer and paper gasket. 

The flywheel can now be removed. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


93 


Inspection 

Inspection of Flywheel —Make an inspection of the teeth on 
the flywheel. If the teeth are burred somewhat on the ends, smooth 
them up with a mill file. 

Inspection of Other Parts —With kerosene or gasoline wash out 
the annular ball bearing at the rear end of the crankshaft. Inspect 
this bearing by rotating the inner race and by noting the amount of end 
play in the race. The race should rotate smoothly and quietly and 
should have no more than .015 inch end play. The bearing is a close 
fit in the crankshaft and may be removed either with a suitable puller, 
or by suitably bent pries. 

Replacement 

Before replacing the felt washer soak it in lubricating oil of a good 
quality, and fill the space between the races of the bearing with number 
two cup grease. 

Have the forward cylinder in the left-hand block on firing 
center before replacing the flywheel. Then replace the flywheel, 
having the number one and five marks, stamped on the wheel, directly 
under the pointer attached to the crankcase. 


ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 
CIRCUIT breakers 

Inspection 

The right-hand circuit breaker, protecting the circuits to the horn, 
handy lamp and tonneau-lamp, should remain closed under a load of 
25 amperes, but should open and remain open under a load of 30 
amperes, or more. The left-hand breaker protecting circuits to the 
ignition apparatus, and the remainder of the lamps should remain 
closed under a twenty-five ampere load, but should vibrate under a 
load of thirty amperes or more. 

The right-hand circuit breaker may be tested by connecting a 
rheostat to wires attached to a double connector inserted in the handy 
lamp socket. The left-hand circuit breaker may be tested by removing 
one of the head light wires, connecting one wire from a rheostat to the 
wire and the other wire from the rheostat to the frame of the car. 
By turning on current to the headlamps and watching the ammeter 
on the dash the amount of resistance may be determined. The dash 
ammeter registers 30 amperes only, which is sufficient for testing either 
circuit breaker. Increasing the load to more than 30 amperes may 
injure the ammeter. 

If either circuit breaker operates under a load of less than 25 
amperes, or refuses to operate under a load of 30 amperes, it is recom- 




94 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


mended that the breakers be replaced and returned to the factory for 
adjustment. 

Removal 

Disconnect at the storage battery one of the large cables and block 
it up to prevent it touching the terminal of the storage battery. 

Mark the four wires on the circuit breakers so that they may 
be replaced as originally assembled. Loosen the nuts on the four 
terminals and remove the wires. 

Remove the two small bolts which hold the circuit breakers to the 
dash. 

Replacement 

In replacing the circuit breakers make sure that the four wires are 
replaced as originally assembled, that the terminals on the wires and on 
the circuit breakers are clean and that all connections are well tightened. 

MOTOR GENERATOR 
Testing the Motor Generator. (On Car.) 

Test the generator field windings and the generator armature 
windings for short circuit, open circuit or ground by turning on ignition 
and observing the operation of the armature. If there is no short 






































REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


95 


circuit, open circuit or ground in the generator field windings, the 
armature will rotate at between 175 and 300 revolutions per minute. 
The speed at which the armature should rotate depends upon the 
state of charge of the storage battery. If there is a short circuit, 
open circuit, or ground in the generator armature windings, the arma¬ 
ture will rotate with a jerky motion. 

Test the motor field circuit and the motor armature circuit by turning 
on ignition, pushing down on the starter pedal and immediately 
switching off the ignition. Before making this test be sure that the 
battery is in a charged condition, the motor commutator is clean, the 
brushes bear properly on the commutator, and that all electrical 
connections are tight. If the engine turns freely, the motor generator 
should crank it over at approximately 90 revolutions per minute. 

To determine if either generator bearing is noisy, remove the 
generator drive shaft, and turn on ignition. 

Testing the Motor Generator. (Off Car.) 

If the motor generator is not on the car the foregoing tests may be 
made by connecting one wire from a charged six volt storage battery 



Fig. 32—Motor Generator, Rear View. 





















































96 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


to number four terminal on the motor generator, Fig. 31, connecting 
together terminals three and four and connecting the other wire from 
the battery to the frame of the generator. Test the generator wind¬ 
ings with the motor brushes lifted. Test the motor windings with the 
motor brushes against the commutator and the generator switch open. 
Operated as a motor, the armature should rotate at high speed. 
Removal and Disassembly of Driving Clutch 

The driving clutch may be removed without removing the generator 
from the engine. 

Remove the carburetor. (See “Removal” under “Carburetor,” 
page 105.) 

Remove the generator drive shaft. 

Remove the large cap screw in the end of the armature shaft and 
with puller, tool 65493 furnished by the Cadillac Motor Car Company, 
remove the complete clutch. 

The clutch may be disassembled by removing the locking wire in the 
space “B,” Fig. 33. The ends of the wire come together at a recess 
“A.” The wire can be removed by picking out one end of it with a 



Fig. 33—Motor Generator Driving Clutch, Rear View. 


sharp pointed instrument and then removing the entire wire. In 
replacing the wire make sure that the ends come together at the recess “A.” 

Removal of Generator Brushes 

The brushes which bear on the generator commutator may be 
removed without removing the generator from the car. To remove 
these brushes proceed as follows: 

Remove the large cable from the storage battery and block it up with 
a piece of dry wood to prevent it touching the terminal of the battery. 





REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


97 


Disconnect the copper strip running from the field coil to the rear 
of terminal number five, Fig. 31. 

Disconnect, at the terminal on the field coil, the wire from the third 
brush arm. 

Remove the two cap screws holding the terminal bracket and the 
brush arm bracket in place, and remove the terminal bracket and 
brush arm bracket with brushes. 

Removal of Motor Brushes 

To remove the brushes which bear on the motor commutator, 
remove the generator in accordance with directions under “Removal of 
Generator” and remove the rear end housing as directed under “Removal 
of Roller Bearing.” The remaining motor brush can then be removed. 

Removal of Motor Generator 

Disconnect from the storage battery one of the large cables and 
block it up with a dry piece of wood to prevent it touching the termi¬ 
nal of the battery. 

Remove the top cover plate from the motor generator and dis¬ 
connect the large cable and the five small wires. 

Remove the carburetor. (See “Removal” under “Carburetor,” 
page 105.) 

Remove the generator drive shaft. 

Remove the two filister-head screws holding the motor generator 
, to the starter gear housing. 

Remove the three large cap screws which hold the motor generator 
to the top cover plate and remove the motor generator. Exercise care 
in removing not to drop the brush control pin. 

Removal of Annular Ball Bearing 

Remove the motor generator. (See “Removal of Motor Generator,” 
on this page.) 

Remove the driving clutch. (See “Removal and Disassembly of 
Driving Clutch,” page 96.) 

Remove the four cap screws holding the aluminum front housing in 
place and remove the housing. 

To remove the ball bearing from the housing, first remove the four 
machine screws which hold the bearing retainer in place, then tap out 
the bearing. 

Removal of Roller Bearing 

Remove the motor generator as directed under “Removal of Motor 
Generator,” above. 

Remove the left-hand motor brush arm. This is the one which is 
not attached to the rear end housing. 

Remove the four cap screws holding the rear end housing in place, 
and remove the housing complete with armature and bearing. 




98 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the four small machine screws which hold the bearing 
retainer to the housing and remove the housing. 

The mounting for the roller bearing can be removed by tapping it 
out through the two small holes provided. 

Removal of Field Coils 

Remove the motor generator in accordance with directions under 
“Removal of Motor Generator,” page 97. 

Remove the rear end housing with armature as directed under 
“Removal of Roller Bearing,” page 97. 

Remove the front housing with bearing. 

Remove the terminal bracket and the brush arm brackets. 

The coils can now be removed by taking out the long bolt which 
passes through the coils and holds the two sides of the frame together. 

Inspection 

Examine the commutators. Burnt or blackened segments of the 
generator commutator indicate high mica, a short circuit, ground, 
open circuit or insufficient spring tension on the brushes. If the 
commutators require it, place the armature between lathe centers and 
turn them down. Turn off no more than is necessary to clean up the 
commutators. If the mica between the segments of the generator 
commutator is above the surface against which the brushes press, or 
-h inch or less below, cut the mica down so that it is -h inch below 
the surface. Use a hack saw blade ground off on the sides of the teeth 
so that it will cut a slot between the segments, very slightly wider 
than the mica. Remove the sharp edges on the segments with a 
fine three cornered file but do no more than take off the sharp edges. 

Examine the insulators on the terminal board, particularly the one 
which holds terminals numbers four and six, Fig. 31. 

Inspect the ball and roller bearings. The races of the ball bearing 
should rotate smoothly and quietly and should have no more than 
.005 inch radial play and no more than .015 inch end play. The roller 
bearings should have no more than .005 inch radial play. The rolls 
should be free from pits and not chipped on the ends. 

The generator and motor brushes should have good bearing on the 
commutators; if not they should be refitted. (See “Fitting Motor 
Generator Brushes,” page 18.) 

The tension of the coil springs on the brush arms should be sufficient 
to cause a brush pressure of between twenty-five and thirty ounces on 
the generator commutator, and between thirty and thirty-six ounces 
on the motor commutator. The pressure between the third brush 
and the generator commutator should be sixteen to twenty ounces. 




REMOVAL,INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


99 


Replacement 

Make certain that all connections are clean and well tightened. 

Before replacing either bearing, fill it well with light cup grease. 

The third brush should be so adjusted that the maximum output 
of the generator is twenty amperes, this means eighteen amperes when 
current for ignition is deducted. (See “Current Regulation,” page 27.) 

DISTRIBUTOR HEAD 

Removal 

Remove the aluminum cap covering the distributor head. The 
cap may be removed by lifting it straight up after the two small screws 
are removed which hold each conduit bracket to the cap and the bail 
over the top of the cap is pushed to one side. 

Press back the finger of the clip on the left-hand side of the distribu¬ 
tor head and rotate the head in a counter-clockwise direction until the 
clips on opposite sides register with the flat places on the head. 

Remove the distributor head by lifting it straight up and then to 
one side. Be careful not to catch the rotor button, and thus injure the 
rotor button spring. 

If it is desired to remove the distributor head from the high tension 
wires, unscrew the nine terminals. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Distributor Head —Clean the head with gasoline 
and wipe it off with a clean cloth. 

The track against which the rotor button presses should be smooth 
and clean. Clean with a piece of cloth moistened with vaseline, then 
polish with a dry cloth. Do not use sand paper, emery cloth, or any¬ 
thing of that nature. 

Make sure that the contact in the center of the head works freely 
in its guide. 

Inspection of Other Parts Inspect the rotor button and rotor 
button spring. (See “Inspection of Rotor” under “Distributor Rotor,” 
page 100.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse the*operations under “Removal.” 

DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR 

Removal 

Remove the distributor head. (See “Removal” under “Distributor 
Head,” on this page.) 

Remove the rotor by lifting it straight up. If the rotor sticks on the 
shaft it may be forced off by the use of two small screw drivers. The 
rotor is recessed on the under side at two points to receive screw drivers 
in removing. Lift both sides evenly and carefully. 




100 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Inspection 

Inspection of Rotor —The upper face of the rotor button should 
be smooth and clean. If it is necessary to clean it use an oil stone. 

Inspect the rotor spring for tension. In replacing the spring make 
sure that it bottoms in the hole which receives it, otherwise the result¬ 
ing increased pressure will cause cutting in the distributor head. 
Under a pressure of between five and ten ounces the rotor button 
flange should just rest on the rotor. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the distributor head. (See 
“Inspection” under “Distributor Head,” page 99). 

Inspect the timer contact points. If they are burned or pitted or 
out of adjustment, see under “Adjustment of Timer Contact Points” 
page 23. 

Replacement 

To replace the rotor, reverse the operation under “Removal,” first 
making sure that the shaft over which the rotor sets, as well as the hole 
in the rotor which receives the shaft, is clean. If the rotor fits tightly 
tap it lightly at the center with the wooden end of a screw driver. 

distributor and timer 

Removal 

Remove the carburetor. (See “Removal” under “Carburetor,” 
page 105). 

Remove the generator shaft “A,” Fig. 22. 

Remove the coupling “C” from the rear end of the fanshaft. To 
do so first remove the large cap screw “B,” then remove the coupling 
with a puller. 

Remove the two cylinder head nuts which hold the brackets of the 
left-hand high tension conduit. Loosen the small screws in the brackets 
which hold the right-hand conduit. Remove the distributor head and 
the low tension wire and lift the left-hand conduit with wires and head 
over to the right side. 

Remove the distributor rotor. This may be done by lifting it 
straight up. If the rotor sticks on the shaft, force it off with two small 
screw drivers. The rotor is recessed on the under side at two points to 
receive drivers in removing. Lift both sides of the rotor evenly and 
lift it carefully. 

Remove the dowel pin “X,” Fig. 34, by tapping it out from the 
front. 

Remove the spark control rod. 

Remove the three bolts and two nuts which hold the distributor 
and timer to the fan shaft housing. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


101 


The distributor and timer may now be removed by tapping it lightly. 
As the dowel pin “Y” is still in position, care must be exercised to 
remove both sides evenly. 

Removal of Plain Bearing 

Remove the cotter pins “G” and “H,” Fig. 7, and the contact arms 
“C” and “0,” being careful not to bend the posts upon which the arms 
operate. 

Remove the nut “A,” the resistance unit, and the condensor “D.” 
Remove the oiler “W.” 

Remove the screws “K” “L” and “M” and lift out the segment 
plate “N 


LOCKING DEVICE FOR ALUMINUM CAP 
ALUMINUM CAP 



LOCKING CLIP 
CONTACT BUTTON 
W-OIL CUP 

(MISPLACED 90°) 

PLATE ON ROTOR 
I-LOCK SCREW FOR CAM 

DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT- 
Z - BREATHER 

(MISPLACED 90°) 

CENTRIFUGAL GOVERNOR 
WEIGHT 
MANUAL- 
CONTROL 
LEVER 

O-GEAR ON 
DISTRIBUTOR 
SHAFT 


TO SPARK PLUGS 

TO IGNITION COIL 

CENTER CONTACT 

3 


CONTACTS CONNECTED 
TO SPARK PLUGS 
SCREW HOLDING 
BRACKET TO CONDUIT 
BRACKET FOR CONDUIT 
DISTRIBUTOR HEAD 
ROTOR 

TIMER CAM-J 
RESISTANCE UNIT-E 
A 

CONDENSER-D 
GOVERNOR SPRING-L 


FANSHAFT 
GEAR ON FANSHAFT 


- G 


Fig. 3k—Distributor and Timer, Sectional View. 

















































































































102 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the headless screw in the yoke “F,” Fig. 34, and remove 
the yoke and shaft to which it is attached. 

Remove the oiler “G” by unscrewing it and pull out the oiler spring. 
Remove the plate “B.” 

Remove the locking washer “H.” 

Remove the distributor shaft complete by pulling it out through the 
top of the housing. 

The bushing “C” can now be removed by tapping it out carefully. 
In replacing the bushing be sure that the hole for the oiler wick is 
opposite the hole in the housing for the wick. 

Removal of Annular Ball Bearing 

Remove the distributor shaft as directed under “Removal of Plain 
Bearing, page 101.” 

Loosen the lock screw “I” and remove the cam “j.” Fig. 34. 
Remove the locking washer “K” and lift out the two steel washers 
and the left washer. 

Remove the ball bearing by tapping it off carefully. 

Removal of Spring 

Remove the distributor shaft as directed under “Removal of Plain 
Bearing, page 101.” 

Remove the pin “N,” Fig. 34, and pull out the shaft with the ball 
bearing. 

Remove the locking washer “M” and remove the spring. 

Removal of Gear 

Remove the distributor shaft complete in accordance with directions 
under “Removal of Plain Bearing, page 101.” 

Remove the screw “P” and drive out the straight pin “R,” Fig. 34. 
Remove the locking washer “S” and the collar “T.” 

Remove the locking washer held to the spiral gear “O” by the screws 
“V.” The gear with sleeve can now be removed from the shaft. 
The gear is held to the sleeve by a taper pin. 

Inspection 

Check up the amount of side play in the annular ball bearing “A,” 
also in the plain bearing “C.” The side play in the ball bearing should 
not exceed .003 inch. The side play in the plain bearing should not 
exceed .004 inch. 

The ball bearing should rotate smoothly and quietly. 

Examine the spring. The spring should compress to .956 inch 
under a load of between eleven and twelve ounces and to .500 inch 
under a load of between three pounds seven ounces and four pounds 
three ounces. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


103 


Examine the teeth of the gear “0” and those of the gear with which 
it meshes. 

Examine the timer contact points. They should be clean, fit square¬ 
ly against each other, and in proper adjustment. (See under “Adjust¬ 
ment of Timer Contact Points, page 23.”) 

The tension of the springs on the contact arms should be great 
enough to cause a pressure of eighteen to twenty ounces between the 
contact points. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the distributor rotor. (See 
“Inspection of Rotor” under “Distributor Rotor, page 100.”) 

Inspect the distributor head. (See “Inspection of Distributor 
Head” under “Distributor Head,” page 99.) 

Replacement 

To replace, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

After replacing the distributor and timer remove the breather “Z” 
and place ten ounces of number two cup grease in the housing. 

Retime the ignition in accordance with directions under “Timing 
Ignition,” page 23.) 

Exercise care, in replacing the distributor head, not to catch the 
rotor button on the side of it, also to make sure that the head fits 
down evenly and that it is locked in place. 

COOLING SYSTEM 
radiator 

Removal 

Remove the wires from the head lamps. To do so lift up the con¬ 
nectors to which the wires are attached, turn them slightly in the 
counter-clockwise direction and pull them down. 

Disconnect at the head lamps the small rods running from the lamps 
through the radiator casing. 

Remove the two cap screws holding each lamp bracket to the fender 
support and remove the lamps with brackets and tie rod. 

Drain cooling system. (See under “Draining the Cooling System,” 
page 34.) 

Remove the hood. 

Remove the cross shaft attached to the rear face of the radiator. 

Disconnect the tie rod at the radiator by removing the cap screw. 

Remove the cotter pins, nuts and springs from the two studs which 
hold the radiator to the frame. 

Disconnect the five radiator hose connections. 

Remove the radiator by pulling its upper end forward slightly, 
then lifting it up. 




104 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Inspection 

Inspect the radiator for leaks. To do so proceed as follows: Plug 
the four large hose connections on the radiator and screw on and tighten 
the radiator filler cap. Attach an air hose to the lower end of the 
radiator over-flow pipe, immerse the radiator in water and turn on air 
under a pressure of approximately fifteen pounds. Leaks are indi¬ 
cated by air bubbles. 

Radiator repair should be attempted only by men who have had 
experience in this line of work. The following suggestions will assist 
in repairing a Cadillac radiator: 

If a tube leaks where it is soldered to the upper or lower header, 
resolder it on the inside of the header. This may be done after remov¬ 
ing the radiator casing which is held in place by ten small bolts, and 
removing the tank by unsoldering. If it is necessary to replace a tube, 
remove both tanks by unsoldering, lay the radiator down flat, and with 
a blow torch melt the solder the entire length of the tube to be removed. 
The tube can then be pulled out. Before putting in a new tube, tin 
it its entire length. After the tube is in place and the fins are lined up, 
solder the tube to the fins, using a blow torch. With a soldering iron, 
solder the ends to the headers. 

Whenever radiator tanks are removed for any purpose, it is a good 
plan to test all of the tubes. Test each tube separately by plugging 
one end and forcing air under approximately fifteen pounds pressure 
into the open end, while the radiator is immersed in water. 

Inspect the radiator fins. They should be parallel to each other 
and equally distant from each other. To insure maximum radiator 
efficiency, each fin must be soldered to each tube. 

Replacement 

Before replacing radiator flush it out with water and remove the 
radiator strainers and clean them. 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

Unless the radiator is properly lined up the hood will not fit properly. 
The radiator is lined up by increasing or decreasing the number of shims 
upon which it rests, and by altering the length of the rod which ties it 
to the body of the car. 


WATER PUMP STRAINERS 

Removal 

There is a strainer in each outlet at the bottom of the radiator. 
Holes are provided in the lower part of the front face of the radiator 
shield permitting easy access to the screw caps which cover them. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


105 


To remove the strainers first drain the cooling system, (see under 
“Draining the Cooling System,” page 34), then remove the caps by 
unscrewing and pull the strainers out. 

An offset socket wrench should be used in removing the caps. 

Inspection 

Inspect the strainers. They should 
be clean and in good condition. 

Replacement 

Before replacing the strainers it is a 
good plan to flush 'out the radiator by 
allowing water from a hose to run 
through it. 

After replacing the strainers make 
sure that the screw caps are well 
tightened against the lead gaskets. 

Refill the cooling system in accordance with directions under “Fill¬ 
ing the Cooling System,” page 34. 



Fig. 35—Removal of Left-Hand 
Water Strainer. 


GASOLINE SYSTEM 
CARBURETOR 

Removal 

Relieve the pressure in the gasoline system by removing the gasoline 
tank filler cap. 

Shut off the gasoline at the tank and replace the cap. 

Disconnect the gasoline feed pipe at the carburetor. 

Loosen the clamp screw holding the drain pocket under the 
carburetor and force the pocket down. 

Remove the carburetor control rods at the carburetor. 

Remove the two cap screws which hold the carburetor to the intake 
manifold and remove the carburetor. 

Disassembly 

Remove the carburetor bowl. To do so, proceed as follows: Re¬ 
move the pin “Z,” Fig. 36. Remove the screw “C” and the packing 
gland “D” with packing. 

Remove the throttle pump plunger “W.” To do so, first remove 
the cap “B” by rotating it in either direction one-eighth turn or more, 
then lift it straight up. Then pull out the plunger. 

Remove the spray nozzle “E” by unscrewing it, and the cork float 
“F.” The float can be removed after the hinge pin is pulled out. 










106 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the diaphragm from the carburetor body. This may be done 
after removing the three long screws which hold these parts together. 

Inspection 

Inspect the face of the carburetor body which bolts against the 
intake manifold. This face must be in good condition and perfectly 
flat to insure against air leaks when the carburetor is bolted in place. 

The throttle “G” must move freely from the open to the closed 
position. When the disc is squarely across the mixing chamber the 
sum of clearances on opposite sides of the disc should be no more than 
.007 inch. Greater clearance will make it impossible to throttle the 
engine down to the recommended speed of 300 revolutions per minute. 
Also make sure that the disc is not bent and that the small screw holding 
it in place is well tightened. 

End play in the throttle shaft should not exceed .004 inch. Clear¬ 
ance between the throttle shaft and the bronze bushings in which it 
operates should not exceed .010 inch. 

The shutter attached to the throttle shaft should clear the face of 
the carburetor body, but have no more than .005 inch clearance. 
Greater clearance will interfere with the operation of the leaning device. 

The shaft of the automatic throttle “H” must work freely in its 
bearings. Test this by rotating the shaft approximately 180 degrees 



FLOAT SETTING 


Fig. 36 — Carburetor, Sectional\View. 













REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


107 


from the normal position and allowing it to return slowly. If there is 
any tendency of the shaft to stick, remove it in the following manner 
and clean the bearings: Remove the two small screws holding the 
plate “X.” Remove the small screw holding the throttle disc to the 
shaft and remove the disc. Remove the shaft, being careful not to 
damage the spring. 

After making sure that the shaft of the automatic throttle works 
freely in its bearings, check up the tension of the spring on this shaft. 
This may be done with tool number 67327, furnished by the Cadillac 
Motor Car Company, or with six and seven-eighths inches of number 
14 copper wire (.064 inch in diameter) bent in shape shown in Fig. 37, 



Fig. 37—Testing Spring of Carburetor Automatic Throttle. 

hooking it over the throttle as shown, and with the carburetor in the 
horizontal position, noting the position which the throttle disc assumes. 
The disc should assume the horizontal position. If it does not and 
you are sure that the throttle shaft is free in its bearings, slightly loosen 
the screws holding the plate “X,” Fig. 36, and turn the large adjusting 
cap. Turning this cap in the clockwise direction increases the tension 
of the spring; turning it in the counter-clockwise direction decreases 
the tension. 

Make sure that the conical tube “J” is firmly fastened to its support. 

Inspect the cork gasket against which the carburetor bowl presses. 
Also inspect the edge of the bowl which bears against the gasket. The 
gasket and the edge of the bowl must be in good condition. 

Examine the tube which runs between the carburetor diaphragm and 
carburetor body. Also tubes “K” and “L.” These tubes must not be 
crushed or obstructed in any way. 

Remove the air valve spring and check it up. To remove proceed 
as follows: Remove the cover plate “M.” Loosen the screw “N” and 
slide the cover “0” to one side. Remove the pins “P” and “Q.” 






















108 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


This will make it possible to so place the air valve “R” and the lever 
“S” that the spring may be removed without injuring it. The spring 
should have a free length of 1.040 inches to 1.080 inches and support a 
weight of four and three-fourths ounces avoirdupois when compressed 
five-sixteenths inch. When replacing the spring, insert the ends from 
the side of the lever and the side of the valve boss, which are nearest 
the adjusting screw “A,” Fig. 13. 

When replacing the lever “S,” Fig. 36, be sure that the pin “T” is 
between the spring “U” and the lever “S.” Also that the tongue at 
the upper end of the cover “O” does not bear against the lever. 

The auxiliary air valve “R” must swing freely on the pin “Q” and 
must rest on the pin, not on the leather seat over the pin. The clearance 
between the valve and the leather seat at a point directly over the pin 
should be from one sixty-fourth inch to three sixty-fourths inch when 
the tip of the valve is seated. 

The leather air valve seat should be in good condition. If replace¬ 
ment is necessary use tool number 55405 furnished by the Cadillac 
Motor Car Company. 

The lever “S” must work freely in its guide. Test this by unscrew¬ 
ing the adjusting screw “A,” Fig. 13, until the notches are free from the 
locking plunger, then forcing the upper end of the lever forward (away 
from the neck of the carburetor) as far as it will go and allowing it to 
return slowly to the normal position. The lever should be sufficiently 
free in its guide so that a normal spring in the lever arm will return it 
until its lower end touches the cover “O,” Fig. 36. 

The inlet needle valve “V” and its seat should be inspected care¬ 
fully. The valve and seat should be clean and free from pits. The 
valve should be free from wear, which causes a shoulder on the tapered 
portion and results in a slow leak. 

After replacing the diaphragm, inlet needle valve and carburetor 
float, set the float in accordance with directions in this book under 
“Setting of Carburetor Float/’ page 39. While holding the carbure¬ 
tor upside down observe the clearance between the float lever and the 
lower end of the needle valve guide. This clearance should be no less 
than .035 inches. If the required clearance does not exist, remove the 
float and valve and, with a mill file, file squarely across the guide. Be 
sure to remove all filings before replacing valve and float. 

Remove the strainer at the carburetor inlet. Clean the strainer 
and inspect it. 

Inspect the machined surface of the diaphragm against which the 
spray nozzle screws, also the machined surface of the nozzle which 
screws against the diaphragm. These surfaces must be in good condi¬ 
tion. Replace the nozzle and tighten. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


109 


The throttle pump plunger “W” should work freely the entire 
length of the pump well, but the clearance should not exceed .006 
inch. 

To prevent the float striking it, the vent tube “K” must stand 
parallel with the bore of the throttle pump cylinder. The top end of 
the tube should stand nine sixty-fourths inch away from the edge of the 
bowl. 

Replace the carburetor bowl, tightening the screw “C” before tight¬ 
ening the gland “D.” If the adjustment of the rod “Y” has been 
altered re-adjust it so that its upper end is flush with the top face of 
lever to which it is attached. 

Replacement 

In replacing the carburetor reverse operations under “Removal.” 
Be sure that the gasket between the carburetor and intake manifold 
is in good condition and that the cap screws holding the carburetor to 
the manifold are well tightened, also that the rod running from the 
steering post to the lever “S” stands in the center of the slot in the lever, 
when the auxiliary air valve lever on the steering post is pushed down 
as far as it will go. This rod is adjusted at the lever on the steering 
post. 

After the carburetor is in place do not neglect to pull up the drain 
pocket tightly under it and lock it in place with the small set screw. 

Adjust carburetor in accordance with directions under “Adjustment 
of Carburetor,” page 37. 

POWER AIR COMPRESSOR IN THE GASOLINE SYSTEM 

Removal 

Disconnect the air pipe from the compressor by unscrewing the 
union. 

Remove the two one-fourth inch nuts and washers and remove the 
compressor body. 

Crank the engine over until the compressor piston is at the top 
of its stroke. 

Remove the piston with connecting rod by sliding the connecting 
rod forward, then upward. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with kerosene or gasoline and with a cloth wipe 
out the cylinder and wipe off the piston. 

The cylinder and piston should be free from scores. There should 
be no more than .003 inch clearance between these parts. 

There should be no more than .002 inch clearance between the piston 
pin and the piston and no more than .003 inch between the bearing at 





110 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


the lower end of the connecting rod and the eccentric upon which it 
operates. 

Dissemble the check valve on the pump and thoroughly clean the 
valve and valve seat. 

Replacement 

Wipe out the cylinder, wipe off the piston and lubricate these parts 
with engine oil of a suitable quality before replacing. 

See that the check valve stands in the upright position. 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

GASOLINE TANK 

Removal of Gasoline Quantity Gauge 

To remove the gasoline gauge, first remove the large nickel plated 
nut and the glass. The gauge can then be lifted out with a pointed 
tool inserted in the hole in the dial. Care must be exercised not to 
injure the cork gaskets. 

Removal of Tank 

Relieve the tank of all air pressure by removing the filler cap. 
Remove the drain plug and drain the tank. 

Disconnect the air and gasoline pipes from the tank by unscrewing 
the unions. 

The tank can now be removed after removing the nut at the rear and 
the cotter pins and the two nuts at the front and pushing the tank for¬ 
ward. In removing the two forward nuts observe the manner in 
which the washers are placed. These washers must be replaced as 
originally assembled. 

Removal of Gasoline Strainer 

Remove the gasoline tank. (See on this page under “Removal of 
Tank.”) This is necessary on all cars with the exception of touring cars. 
Touring cars are provided with a removable floor over the tank. 

Remove the cotter pin from the valve stem. Remove the packing 
gland and remove the valve by unscrewing it. 

Remove the four small cap screws and remove the connection 
plate with strainer and stand pipe. 

Inspection 

With the gasoline tank removed test it by screwing on and tight¬ 
ening the filler cap, replacing the drain plug, temporarily plugging 
the nipple from which the gasoline pipe was disconnected, attaching 
an air hose to the nipple from which the air pipe was disconnected, 
and with the tank immersed in water turning on an air pressure of 
approximately six pounds. As the valve on the gasoline tank is 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


111 


open under normal conditions it should be open during this test. 
Do not use a pressure greater than six pounds. 

Test the gasoline quantity gauge by draining the gasoline tank, then 
refilling it with five measured gallons of gasoline. The gauge should 
indicate five. If it does not, remove it as directed under “Removal 
of Gasoline Quantity Gauge,” page 110, and slightly bend the float arm. 

Examine the valve and the valve seat. These should be in good 
condition. 

Replacement 

In replacing the stand pipe in the gasoline tank be sure that its 
lower end enters the hole in the support. 

In replacing the washers on the forward tank supports make sure 
that they are replaced as originally assembled. When assembled 
correctly, a spherical joint is provided at the bottom of each forward 
support. 

Before replacing the connection plate make sure that the gasket 
is in good condition. 

CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION 

TRANSMISSION CASE 

Removal 

Remove and disassemble the transmission. (See “Removal and 
Disassembly” under “Transmission,” pages 121 and 122.) 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Transmission Case— Carefully examine the trans¬ 
mission case and inspect all machined surfaces. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Before replacing, inspect all parts 
removed in accordance with directions in this book. 

Replacement 

After inspecting all parts, reassemble and replace the transmission. 
(See “Reassembly and Replacement” under “Transmission,” page 123.) 

Refill the transmission with three quarts of suitable transmission 
lubricant. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recom¬ 
mended. 

CLUTCH 

The amount of wear on the clutch discs may be determined roughly, 
by noting the distance which the ends of the six studs “V,” Fig. 39, 
project beyond the retainer plate “W.” This inspection may be made 
after removing the floor boards and the hand hole plate X. If the 
ends of the studs project more than one-half inch beyond the retainer 
plate, the clutch discs should be removed and recovered. 





112 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Removal of Clutch 

Remove the transmission. (See “Removal” under “Transmission,” 
page 121.) 

Remove the nut “T” and pull off the clutch. 

Removal of Ball Thrust Bearing 

Remove the clutch. (See on this page under “Removal of Clutch.”) 
Remove the retainer which holds the thrust bearing to the clutch 
spider and remove the bearing. Ordinarily the bearing can be removed 
by pulling it off by hand. 

Removal of Clutch Spring 

Remove the clutch. (See on this page under “Removal of Clutch.”) 
Place the clutch under an arbor press with the ball thrust bearing 
up. Place a block of wood over the upper end of the clutch spider and 
with the arbor press slightly compress the clutch spring. 

Remove the nuts from the six long studs “V,” Fig. 39. 

Remove the clutch from the arbor press and remove the clutch 
spider and clutch spring. 

Removal of Clutch Discs 

Remove the transmission. (See “Removal” under “Transmission,” 
page 121.) 

Compress the clutch spring by pushing down on the clutch pedal 
and place a piece of metal five-eighths inch long between the screw 
collar which locks the rear annular ball bearing to the clutch connection 
shaft and the rear face of the clutch spider. 

Remove the nuts from the six long studs “B” and remove the 
clutch discs. 

Inspection 

Examine the ball thrust bearing. If the bearing is noisy or feels 
rough in spinning the races, replace it by a new one. 

Be sure that the bearing is well filled with suitable lubricant. 
Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Oil is recommended. 

The clutch spring should have a minimum free length of seven and 
one-half inches and should support a load of from 290 to 310 pounds 
when compressed to three and one-quarter inches. 

Examine the clutch discs. There should be no more than .008 inch 
clearance between the driven discs and the keys of the clutch hub, and 
no more than .010 inch clearance between the teeth of the driving 
discs and the teeth in the clutch ring. 

Examine the linings on the discs. If the total thickness of a disc 
with the two linings is less than five-sixteenths inch, the disc should 
be recovered. (See under “Relining Clutch Discs,” page 40.) 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


113 


Warped clutch discs should be straightened or replaced. 

Examine the faces of the driven discs. 

The six long studs should be tight in the plate to which they are 
fastened. 

The clutch hub should be a sliding fit on the splines of the clutch 
connection. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

In replacing the discs, make sure that the small reinforcements on 
the driven discs are on the driving sides of the keys of the clutch hub. 
Also that the teeth of driving discs line up. 

In replacing the nuts on the six long studs, screw them down until 
their upper faces are just flush with the ends of the studs. 

TIRE AIR COMPRESSOR 

Removal 

Remove the floor boards. 

Remove the drain plug “Q,” Fig. 39, and drain the transmission. 
Remove the copper pipe which connects the compressor and the 
frame of the car. 

Remove the pull back spring from the connecting link on the com¬ 
pressor shifter shaft. 

Remove the set screw which holds the shifter shaft in place and 
remove the shaft with connecting link. 

Remove the four nuts which hold the body of the compressor to 
the transmission case and remove the compressor. 

Disassembly 

Remove the plate at front end of the crankcase of the compressor, 
Fig. 38. 

Remove the nut at the top of the compressor cylinder, also the 
valve and spring. 

Remove the four machine screws holding the cylinder in place 
and remove the cylinder. 

Remove the two pieces of felt and the felt retainers. 

Remove the connecting rod with piston. With the piston at the 
highest point in its stroke the connecting rod can be removed by 
sliding it forward. 

Remove the locking ring at the rear of the forward crankshaft 
bearing and pull out the crankshaft. 

To remove the shifter yoke from the shaft, drive out the taper pin 
between these parts. The taper pin can be driven out after remov¬ 
ing the small machine screw in the side of the case. 




114 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


The bushings in which the crankshaft rotates can be removed by 
tapping them out. 

The piston pin can be removed by first pulling out the cotter pin, 
then lightly tapping it out. 


Inspection 

Clean all parts with kerosene or gasoline. 

Inspect the cylinder bore. It should be free from scores. 
Clearance between the piston and cylinder should not exceed 
.006 inch. 



Fig. 38—Tire Air Compressor, Sectional View. 


The clearance between the crankshaft and its bearings should 
not exceed .004 inch. 

The clearance between the crankshaft and the driving gear should 
not exceed .005 inch. 

Inspect the teeth of the driving gear. 

The clearance between the piston pin and the piston should not 
exceed .003 inch. 

The clearance between the crank pin bearing and the crank pin 
should not exceed .004 inch. 

Placed on lathe centers, the crankshaft should run true within 
.002 inch. 

Inspect the felts. They should be in good condition and well 
soaked with engine oil. 

Inspect the inlet and exhaust valves, regrinding them if necessary. 







































































REMOVAL,INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


115 


Inspect the intake and exhaust valve springs. The intake and 
exhaust valve springs should have a free length of one-half inch. When 
the valve is opened one-sixteenth inch, the exhaust valve spring should 
show a pressure of seven and one-half ounces, the inlet valve spring 
four and one-half ounces. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

After replacing the drain plug “Q” refill the transmission with 
suitable transmission lubricant. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmis¬ 
sion Lubricant is recommended. Two quarts of lubricant are re¬ 
quired. 

CLUTCH CONNECTION AND CLUTCH CONNECTION REAR BEARING 

Removal 

Remove the clutch. (See “Removal of Clutch” under “Clutch,” 
page 112.) 

Remove the transmission cover plate. 

Remove the six cap screws which hold the clutch connection bear¬ 
ing cap in place, and remove the clutch connection with bearing. 

Remove the locking ring which holds the check nut in place and 
remove the nut (left-hand thread). 

Remove the oil throw-off ring. 

The bearing can be removed from the shaft by tapping it off. 

Inspection 

With gasoline or kerosene clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of the Clutch Connection and Rear Bearing— 
Examine the clutch connection. Placed between lathe centers it 
should run true within .0025 inch. The bore in which the roller 
bearing operates should be smooth and free from pits. The faces of the 
gear teeth should show very little wear and should be free from 
pits. The clutch hub should be a light press fit on the splines of 
the clutch connection. 

Inspect rear bearing on the clutch connection. The bearings 
should rotate smoothly. There should be no more than .015 inch end 
play in the races. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Examine the roller bearing. The 
rolls should be free from pits and not chipped on the ends. 

Examine the ball bearing which supports the forward end of the 
clutch connection. It should rotate smoothly and quietly and have no 
more than .015 inch end play. With the clutch connection, main 
transmission shaft, and roller bearing in place, there should be no more 
than .004 inch shake between the shaft and the clutch connection. 







116 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

SHIPPER GEARS 

Removal of High and Intermediate Shipper Gear 

Remove the jackshaft. (See “Removal” under “Jackshaft and 
Jackshaft Gears,” page 117.) 

Remove the transmission shaft. (See “Removal” under “Main 
Transmission Shaft and Main Transmission Shaft Rear Bearing,” page 
120.) In pulling out the shaft do not allow the shipper gears to drop. 
The high and intermediate shipper gear can now be removed. 

Removal of Low and Reverse Shipper Gear 

Remove the jackshaft. (See “Removal” under “Jackshaft and 
Jackshaft Gears,” page 117.) 

Remove the main transmission shaft. (See “Removal” under “Main 
Transmission Shaft and Main Transmission Shaft Rear Bearing,” page 
120.) In pulling out the shaft do not allow the shipper gears to drop. 
Remove the top cover plate. 

Remove the right-hand shifter shaft (see “Removal” under “Shifter 
Forks and Shafts,” page 120), and remove the low and reverse shipper gear. 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Gears —The clearance between the sides of the 
splines of the shaft and the sides of the spline ways of the shipper gears 
should not exceed .004 inch. 

The teeth of the gears should show very little wear and be free from 
pits. 

There should be no more than .015 inch between the shifter fork and 
groove in the gear in which it operates. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the main transmission shaft 
and its bearings. (See “Inspection” under “Main Transmission Shaft 
and Main Transmission Shaft Rear Bearing,” page 121.) 

Inspect the jackshaft gears and bearings. (See “Inspection of 
Jackshaft and Jackshaft Gears” under “Jackshaft and Jackshaft 
Gears,” page 118.) 

Inspect the teeth of the clutch connection gear and of the reverse 
gear. The faces of the teeth should show very little wear and be free 
from pits. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal of High and 
Intermediate Shipper Gear” and under “Removal of Low and Reverse 
Shipper Gear,” on this page. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


117 


Refill the transmission up to the proper level with suitable trans¬ 
mission lubricant. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is 
recommended. Two quarts are required. 

JACKSHAFT AND JACKSHAFT GEARS 

Removal 

Remove the plug “Q,” Fig. 39, and drain the transmission. 
Remove the bottom cover plate. The plate is held in place by- 
nine five-sixteenth inch nuts. 

Determine the amount of end play in the jackshaft. (See under 
“Inspection of Jackshaft and Jackshaft Gears/’ page 118.) 

Remove the shield over the forward universal joint. 




Pig, S9—Clutch and Transmission, Sectional View. 

























118 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the lower shield bracket. 

Remove the cap “U.” 

Remove the screw which holds the shaft “J” in place. 

Remove the shaft “J.” To do so, screw a Yz inch x 12 cap screw 
into the rear end of the shaft and with the cap screw pull out the 
shaft. Be careful in removing the shaft that neither the jackshaft, nor 
the spacer washers drop. 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline, clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Jackshaft and Jackshaft Gears —Inspect the 
teeth of the gears. Gear teeth faces should show but little wear and 
be free from pits. 

Examine the bore of the jackshaft which carries the gears. 

With the roller bearings, and the shaft “J,” Fig. 39, in place there 
should be no more than .004 inch play between the shaft “J” and the 
jackshaft. 

The jackshaft when in place in the transmission should have no 
more than .015 inch end play. 

Inspection of Other Parts— Inspect the roller bearings. The 
rolls should be free from pits and not chipped at the ends. 

Inspect the bearing surfaces of the shaft “J.” 

Inspect the teeth of the gears which mesh with teeth of the jack- 
shaft gears. The faces of the teeth should show but little wear and 
be free from pits. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

After replacing the bottom cover plate and the drain plug, refill the 
transmission with enough transmission lubricant of suitable quality to 
bring the level up to the filling hole. This will require approximately 
two quarts. Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is 
recommended. 

CONTROL LEVER 

Removal 

Remove the ball at the top of the control lever by unscrewing it. 

Remove the nut which holds the nickel plated dust cover in place 
and remove the dust cover. 

Remove the large adjusting collar by unscrewing it and remove the 
felt washer. 

The control lever can now be removed by lifting it out. Care must 
be exercised not to drop the centralizing pin into the transmission. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


119 


Inspection 

Inspection of Control Lever— Inspect the ball on the control 
lever which supports it. If the ball has been injured clean it up with a 
fine mill file. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the centralizing pin. 

Inspect the felt washers. 

Inspect the seat in which the ball of the control lever rests. 

Replacement 

In replacing, make sure that the centralizing pin is properly 
in place before replacing the felt washer and screwing down the collar. 

REVERSE PINION 

Removal 

Remove the drain plug “Q,” Fig. 39, and drain the transmission. 
Remove the tire air compressor. (See “Removal” under “Tire 
Air Compressor,” page 113.) 

Determine the amount of end play in the reverse pinion. (See 
on this page under “Inspection.”) 

Remove the set screw which holds the reverse pinion shaft in place. 
This screw is in the left-hand side of the transmission case. 

Remove the reverse pinion, being careful not to drop the spacing 
washer at the rear end of the pinion. 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline carefully clean all parts. 

There should be no more than .004 inch clearance between the 
bearing in the pinion and the shaft. If it is necessary to replace the 
bearing press it out and press in the new one. Ream the new bearing 
to .937 inch to .938 inch after it is in place. 

When the gear is in place in the transmission case there should be 
no more than .015 inch end play. 

Inspect the pinion teeth. The faces of the teeth should be free 
from pits and show very little wear. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

In replacing the pinion have the beveled ends of the teeth forward. 
After bolting the tire air compressor in place, and replacing the drain 
plug “Q,” refill the transmission case up to the level of the filling plug 
with transmission lubricant of the proper, quality. Cadillac Rear 
Axle Transmission Lubricant is recommended. Two quarts of lubricant 
are required. 






120 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


SHIFTER FORKS AND SHAFTS 

Removal 

Remove the transmission top cover plate. The plate is held in 
place by six cap screws. 

Remove the threaded dowel pin “R,” Fig. 39. To do so place over 
it a washer large enough to permit the pin to be pulled through it, 
and screw on and tighten a 34 inch x 20 nut. 

Remove the dowel pin screw “S.” 

Remove the cotter pin, spring and plunger from the front end of the 
shifter fork shaft. These are located at each side of the transmission 
case. 

The shaft may now be removed by tapping it out through the rear 
end of the transmission case, at the same time driving out the rear 
bearing. There is a nine-sixteenth inch ball between the bearings 
which support the front ends of the shifter fork shafts. The purpose 
of the ball is to make it impossible to bring both shipper gears into 
mesh at the same time. Do not allow this ball to drop into the trans¬ 
mission case, and be sure to remove it in case it does. 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Shifter Fork and Shaft —There should be no 
more than .004 inch clearance between the shaft and the bushings in 
which it operates. 

There should be no more than .015 inch between the shifter fork 
and the groove in the gear in which it operates. 

The shaft placed on lathe centers should run true within. 003 inch. 
Inspection of Other Parts —The plunger spring should have a 
free length of one and one-half inches, and when compressed to one and 
one-eighth inches should support a load of 12 pounds. 

Examine the locking plunger. It should be free from scores. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

MAIN TRANSMISSION SHAFT AND MAIN TRANSMISSION 
SHAFT REAR BEARING 

Removal 

Remove the floor boards. 

Remove the plug “Q,” Fig. 39, and drain the transmission. 

Remove the top cover plate. The plate is held in place by six cap 
screws. 

Remove the shield over the forward universal joint. The shield is 
held in place by two small machine screws. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


121 


Remove the six bolts holding the front universal joint to the flange 
on the transmission shaft and remove the joint. Be careful in removing 
the bolts that the joint does not drop. 

Remove the six cap screws directly back of the flange and remove 
the transmission drive shaft and bearing. 

Remove the large cap screw which holds the flange to the shaft 
and remove the flange with a puller or by tapping it off. 

Remove the felt washer, felt washer retainer, steel plate and gasket. 
Remove the spacing collar and the oil throw-off ring. 

The bearing can now be removed from the shaft by tapping it off. 

Inspection 

With gasoline or kerosene clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Shaft and Ball Bearings —The main transmis¬ 
sion shaft placed on lathe centers should run out of true no more than 
.0025 inch. 

There should be no more than .004 inch clearance between the sides 
of the splines on the shaft and the sides of the spline ways in the shipper 
gears. 

The large annular ball bearing should rotate smoothly and quietly 
and should have no more than .015 inch end play. 

There should be no more than .004 inch shake between the front 
end of the main transmission shaft and the clutch connection when 
these parts are in place with the roller bearing. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the roller bearing. It should 
be free from pits and chips. 

Examine the teeth of the gears. These should show very little 
wear and be free from pits. 

Examine the felt washer. If it is worn replace it. It should be 
well soaked in engine oil. 

Inspect the forward universal joint. (See “Inspection” under 
“Universal Joints,” page 124.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

TRANSMISSION 

Removal 

Remove the floor boards. 

Disconnect the brake rods at the hand brake lever and at the brake 

pedal. *' 

Remove the accelerator pedal. Then remove the accelerator shaft 
with arm, and disconnect at the engine the rod between the arm and 
the engine. 





122 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the shield over the forward universal joint. The shield is 
held in place by two small screws. 

Disconnect the universal joint from the flange on the transmission 
shaft. The joint is held to the flange by six bolts. 

Remove the copper tube between the tire air compressor and the 
frame of the car. 

Disconnect the clutch control rod from the lever at the bottom end 
of the rod, and remove the clutch pedal pull-back spring. 

Remove the starter pedal. 

Lift front end of car about twelve inches. 

Remove the eight bolts holding the transmission to the crankcase. 
Remove the transmission by moving it straight back. Care must be 
exercised in removing the transmission not to drop it. 

Disassembly 

Remove the clutch. (See “Removal of Clutch” under “Clutch,” 
page 112.) 

Remove the drain plug “Q,” Fig. 39, and drain the transmission. 

Remove the tire air compressor. (See “Removal” under “Tire Air 
Compressor,” page 113.) 

Remove the clutch release shaft “Y.” To remove the shaft pro¬ 
ceed as follows: Remove the lever from the left-hand end of the shaft, 
also remove the Woodruff key. 

Remove the two taper pins which hold the clutch release yoke to the 
shaft. The shaft may now be removed, tapping it out from the left side. 

Remove the transmission top cover plate by removing the six cap 
screws. 

Remove the transmission bottom cover plate. 

Remove the shifter forks and shafts. (See “Removal” under 
“Shifter Forks and Shafts,” page 120.) 

Remove the reverse pinion. (See “Removal” under “Reverse 
Pinion,” page 119.) 

Remove the main transmission shaft. (See “Removal” under 
“Main Transmission Shaft and Main Transmission Shaft Rear Bearing,” 
page 120.) 

Remove the jackshaft with gears. (See “Removal” under “Jack- 
shaft and Jackshaft Gears,” page 117.) 

Remove the clutch connection and the large annular ball bearing. 
(See “Removal” under “Clutch Connection and Clutch Connection 
Rear Bearing,” page 115.) 

Remove the mounting for the annular ball bearing. This 'may be 
removed by tapping it out. 

Remove the hand brake lever ratchet. 

Remove the hand hole cover “X.” 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


123 


Inspection 

Inspect all parts removed in accordance with directions in this book. 

Reassembly and Replacement 

In reassembling and replacing the transmission, reverse operations 
under “Disassembly” and under “Removal.” 

Before replacing the transmission make sure that the annular ball 
bearing “D” is in good condition and well lubricated. 

The forward end of the clutch connection shaft is milled off to 
receive the key in collar which fits into the annular ball bearing “D.” 
In replacing the transmission, first make certain that the key in the 
collar and the key-way in the shaft, line up. This is very important. 
Care must be exercised in replacing the transmission not to damage the 
ball bearing or the clutch connection shaft. 

UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND REAR AXLE 

UNIVERSAL JOINTS 

Removal of Forward Universal Joint 

Remove the shield over the joint. The shield is held in place by 
two small machine screws 

Remove the six bolts which hold the joint to the flange on the rear 
end of the transmission shaft. Care must be exercised not to allow 
the joint or shaft to drop.' 



Remove the collar “A,” Fig. 40, by unscrewing it. The joint can 
now be removed. 

Removal of Rear Universal Joint 

Remove the six bolts holding the universal joint to the flange on 
the shaft of the axle. Care must be exercised not to allow the joint to 
drop. 

The joint with drive shaft can now be removed by lowering it and 
pulling it back. Do not allow the forward end of the shaft to drop. 







































124 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Disassembly of Universal Joints 

Remove the joints as directed under headings “Removal of Forward 
Universal Joint,” and “Removal of Rear Universal Joint,” page 123. 

Remove the clamps “B” and the shields “C” and “D.” 

Remove the locking rings “E” and tap out the bushings. The 
crosses can then be removed. 

Inspection 

Thoroughly clean all parts with kerosene or gasoline. 

The drive shaft, placed between lathe centers, should run true 
within .020 inch. 

There should be no more than .003 inch clearance between the sides 
of the splines of the drive shaft and the sides of the spline ways in the 
hub of the forward joint. 

The clearance between the six bolts which attach each joint and 
the holes in the flanges should not exceed .002 inch. 

There should be no more than .005 inch clearance between the 
arms of the crosses of the joints and the bushings in which they op¬ 
erate, and no more than .010 inch clearance between the sides of the 
yokes and the shoulders of the crosses. 

Inspect the welded joints of the drive shaft. 

Inspect the housings “C” and “D,” also the packing washers “H.” 

Inspect the threads of the filler plugs “J” and the threads in the 
housings “D” into which they screw. 

Replacement 

In reassembling, have the “O” on the drive shaft and the “O” on 
the hub of the forward joint point directly toward each other. This 
will bring the yokes on the drive shaft ends in the same plane. 

Make sure that the filling holes in the casings “D” do not come 
opposite the ends of the universal crosses, but directly between the 
ends. This will make it easier to fill the joints. 

After replacing the joints refill each with eleven ounces of suitable 
lubricant. Cadillac Universal Joint Lubricant is recommended. 

REAR AXLE 

Removal 

Block the front wheels and jack up the rear end of the frame at 
least six inches. Block up the frame securely. 

Disconnect the four brake rods at the brake arms on the axle. 

Disconnect the rear universal joint by removing the six bolts. Do 
not allow the joint to drop. 

Disconnect the front end of the torque arm from the torque arm 
bolt, by removing the cotter pin and the nut at the bottom of the bolt. 
Do not allow the torque arm to drop. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


125 


Remove the nuts from the two spring clips at each side, and dis¬ 
connect the rebound straps. 

The axle complete with wheels can now be rolled from under the car. 

Disassembly 

Remove the wheels. (See “Removal of Rear Wheel and Bearings” 
under “Wheels,” page 141.) 

Remove the brake bands. (See under “Brakes,” pages 125 and 126.) 
Remove the differential complete with gear. (See “Removal” 
under “Differential and Large Driven Gear,” page 126.) 

Remove the driving pinion and pinion shaft. (See “Removal” 
under “Driving Pinion and Pinion Shaft,” page 129.) 

The adjusting collars “I” and “K,” Fig. 15, may be removed after 
removing the large bolts across the top of the housing and taking out 
the locking plate. 

Remove the long brake shafts. These may be pulled out after 
removing the cotter pins just back of the dust shields for the brakes 
and then loosening the clamp bolts on the brake arms. 

Remove the torsion arm by taking out the torsion arm bolt. This 
bolt is held in place by a nut on one end and two clamps in the housing. 

Remove the differential carrier from the housing. The carrier is 
held in place by sixteen nuts. 

Remove the tie rod. 

Remove the felt oil retainers in the housing. To do so, remove at 
least two of the three small cotter pins and remove the split retainer. 

Inspection 

Inspect all parts in accordance with directions in this book. 

Reassembly and Replacement 

In reassembling and replacing the axle, reverse operations under 
“Disassembly” and under “Removal.” 

BRAKES 

Removal of External Brake Band 

Remove the wheel. (See “Removal of Rear Wheel and Bearings” 
under “Wheels,” page 141.) 

Remove the brake pull rod and the pull back spring from the upper 
end of the lever “D,” Fig. 16. 

Remove the cotter pin, the adjusting nut “A” and the spring. 
Remove the nut from the rear end of the bracket which acts as a 
stop for the two nuts “B.” 

Remove the nut “C” and the brake band. 




126 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Removal of Internal Brake Band 

Remove the wheel. (See “Removal of Rear Wheel and Bearings” 
under “Wheels,” page 141.) 

Remove the cotter pins from the support just to the rear of the 
adjusting screws “R,” Fig. 16. 

Remove the cotter pin, the adjusting nut “J” and the spring. 
Remove the pin “M” and remove the brake band. 

Inspection 

Inspect the brake band lining. The lining should be at least three 
thirty-seconds inch thick and not glazed. If it is glazed clean it up 
with gasoline and a stiff wire brush. Lining rivets should be tight 
and the heads should be beneath the surface of the lining. If it is 
necessary to reline a brake band follow directions under “Relining 
Brake Bands,” page 49. 

All brake pins should fit the shackles and levers within .005 inch. 
Brake bands when in place, in correct adjustment and released, 
should be equally distant at all points from the brake drum. If not, 
the bands should be reshaped. 

Replacement 

After replacing the brake bands adjust them in accordance with 
directions in this book under “Brakes,” page 46. 

DIFFERENTIAL AND LARGE DRIVEN GEAR 

Removal 

It is unnecessary to remove the axle in order to take out the differ¬ 
ential. 

Remove the axle shafts by removing the hub caps and locking ring 
and pulling them out. 

Remove the sixteen nuts which hold the rear cover plate “L” in 
place, Fig. 15, and remove the plate. 

Remove the wires which lock the four large cap screws and loosen 
the screws. Unscrew the adjusting collars “T” and “N” one-half 
turn or more, then remove the four large cap screws and the bearing 
caps “0” and “R.” Be careful not to drop the differential. 

Remove the differential complete with driven gear. 

Disassembly 

To remove the large driven gear cut off the rivet heads, being care¬ 
ful not to spring the gear or flange of the differential housing, and tap 
out the rivets. 

To disassemble the differential remove the twelve cap screws and 
separate the halves of the housing. 

Inspection 

With gasoline or kerosene thoroughly clean all parts. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


127 


Inspection of Differencial and Driven Gear— The flange of 
the differential housing should run true laterally and radially within 
.002 inch. 

Examine the faces of the teeth of the driven gear, and of those of 
the six differential gears. They should show but little wear and should 
not be pitted. The teeth should not be chipped on the ends. 

The hubs of the two large differential gears should have no more 
than .005 inch clearance in the hub of the cross. The end play in these 
two gears when the differential halves are bolted together should not 
exceed .008 inch. 

The four small differential gears should have no more than .006 
inch clearance on the arms of the cross and no more than .010 inch end 
play, when in place in the differential housing. 

The ends of the cross should fit tightly into the differential housing. 

Inspection of Other Parts— Examine the mountings, cones and 
rolls of the roller bearings. They should be smooth, free from pits and 
not chipped on the ends. The cages for the rolls should be in good 
condition. 

With the bearing caps bolted in place the mounting for the roller 
bearings and the adjusting collars should be clamped. 

Examine the faces of the pinion teeth. They should show but little 
wear and should be free from pits. The ends of the teeth should not be 
chipped. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

After replacing differential adjust the bearings in accordance with 
directions in this book under “Adjustment of Gear and Pinion Bear¬ 
ings,” page 42. 

After replacing the rear cover plate and tightening the sixteen nuts, 
refill the housing with suitable lubricant. Cadillac Rear Axle and 
Transmission Lubricant is recommended. Five quarts are required. 

REAR AXLE HOUSING 

Removal 

Remove and disassemble axle. (See “Removal and Disassembly” 
under “Rear Axle,” pages 124 and 125.) 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts. 

Inspection of Housing —Draw a line through the axle having it 
pass through the centers of the axle ends at “A” and “B,” Figs. 41 
and 4%. Dimensions “C” and “D,” Fig. 41, taken from the line to the 
front and rear machined faces of the housing should vary by no more 
than one thirty-second inch. . Dimensions “E” and “F,” Fig. 42, taken 




128 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


from the line to the centers of bolt holes “H” and “I” in the front face 
of the housing should vary by no more than one-thirty second inch. 

The spring seats should have no more than .010 inch lateral play 
and no more than .006 inch radial play. The radial play can be taken 
up by reducing the edges of the caps with a mill file. 

All rivets should be tight. 

The threads on the ends of the housing should be in good condition. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect all parts removed in accord¬ 
ance with directions in this book. 



Reassembly and Replacement 

After inspecting all parts reassemble and replace the axle. (See 
“Reassembly and Replacement” under “Axle,” page 125.) 


Removal 


AXLE SHAFTS 


Remove the oiler “A,” Pig. 49, and remove the hub cap “B” by 
unscrewing. 

Remove the locking ring “K.” 

Determine the amount of clearance between the drivers on the axle 
flange and the recesses which receive the drivers in the hub of the wheel. 
(See under “Inspection.”) 

Withdraw the axle shaft. If the axle shaft sticks it may be removed 
by tapping a cold chisel between the rear faces of the drivers on the 
axle flange and the bottoms of the recesses in the hub flange. If one of 
the axle shafts fits particularly tight, remove the looser one in accord¬ 
ance with these directions and drive out the other, by passing a bar 
of suitable size and length through the opposite end of the axle housing. 


Inspection 

There should be no more than .010 inch clearance between the 
drivers on the flange of the axle shaft and the recesses in the hub which 
receive the drivers. 



































REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


129 


The clearance between the splines of the axle shaft and the spline 
ways in the hub of the differential gears should not exceed .006 inch. 

Placed on lathe centers the axle shaft should run out of true no more 
than .004 inch. 

Replacement 

The longer axle shaft goes on the right side. 

After replacing the hub cap lock it with the oiler “A.” 

DRIVING PINION AND PINION SHAFT 

Removal 

It is unnecessary to remove the axle to remove the pinion and 
shaft. 

Remove the differential complete with driven gear. (See “Remov¬ 
al” under “Differential and Large Driven Gear,” page 126.) 

Disconnect the rear universal joint by removing the six bolts. 
Do not allow the joint to drop. 

Remove the nut which holds the flange to the axle shaft and remove 
the flange either with a puller or by tapping it off. 

Remove the six small screws directly at the rear of the flange and 
remove the dust washer, packing, packing washer and spring. 

Pull out through the rear of the housing the pinion with the shaft 
and the rear bearing. The front bearing may be removed through the 
front end of the housing. 

The bearing mountings can be removed after loosening the two 
long clamping bolts across the top of the housing. 

To remove the pinion from the shaft, first remove the cotter pin 
and the large nut on the end of the shaft, then remove the pinion from 
the shaft either with a press or by tapping it off. 

Inspection 

Clean all parts with kerosene or gasoline. 

Inspection of Pinion and Shaft —Inspect the faces of the teeth 
of the pinion. They should show very little wear, and be free from 
pits. The teeth should not be chipped on the ends. 

The shaft placed on lathe centers should run true within .002 inch. 

The pinion should be tight on the end of the shaft. 

Examine the threads on each end of the pinion shaft, also those in 
the nuts. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Examine the bearing mountings, 
rolls and cones. These parts should be smooth and free from pits 
and not chipped. The bearing cages should be in good condition. 

The cone of the rear bearing should have no more than .002 inch 
clearance on the hub of the pinion. The cone of the forward bearing 
should have no more than .002 inch clearance on the shaft. 










130 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


With the bolts across the top of the housing tightened, the bearing 
mountings and the adjusting collars should be clamped in the housing. 

Examine the faces of the teeth of the driven gear. They should 
show but little wear and should be free from pits. The ends of the 
teeth should not be chipped. 

Replacement 

In replacing the pinion and pinion shaft, reverse operations under 
“Removal.” In replacing the bearings, the driven gear and the driving 
pinion, make adjustments in accordance with directions in this book 
under “Rear Axle,” page 42. 

Refill the axle with suitable lubricant. Cadillac Rear Axle and 
Transmission Lubricant is recommended. Five quarts are required. 

FRONT AXLE AND STEERING GEAR 
STEERING ARMS 

Removal 

Remove the nut “P,” Fig. 47, from the parallel rod bolt. 

In removing the left steering arm, next disconnect the steering 
connecting rod from the arm. (See “Disconnecting Front End” 
under “Steering Connecting Rod,” page 139.) 

Remove the cotter pin and the large nut from the rear end of the 
arm and drive out the arm. 




Fig. If.3—Right Spindle Arm. 






























REMOVA L, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


131 


Inspection 

Inspection of Arm—E xamine the threads on the steering arm, 
also the threads in the large nut. 

Determine if the arm is bent or sprung. (See Figs. 43 and 44.) 
ExamineJ;he forging carefully. 




Inspection of Other Parts —There should be no more than 
.005 inch clearance between the bushings in the parallel rod yoke and 
the bolt. If it is necessary to remove one of these bushings, do so with 
a press or drive it out, and press or drive in the new one. 

If the left-hand steering spindle is removed examine the pivot on the 
arm. It should be round within .010 inch. 

Examine the threads in the end of the steering connecting rod, also 
the threads on the adjusting screw and the surfaces of the bronze 
bearings. 

Replacement 

In adjusting the screw at the front end of the steering connecting 
rod do not take it up too tightly. Tighten it only sufficiently to take up 
all shake. 

Do not tighten the nut “P,” Fig. 47, sufficiently to bind the yoke on 
the steering arm. 










































132 REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


FRONT AXLE 

Removal 

Jack up the front end of the car until the front wheels are free from 
the ground. 

Remove the front wheels. (See “Removal of Front Wheel and 
Bearings” under “WTieels,” page 140.) 

Disconnect the speedometer cable at the spindle. 

Disconnect the front end of the steering connecting rod. (See 
“Disconnecting Front End” under “Steering Connecting Rod,” 
page 140.) 

Remove the nuts on the four spring clips which hold the axle to the 
spring and remove the spring clips and axle complete with spindles. 

Disassembly 

Remove the grease cups from the spindles and steering arms. 
Remove the parallel rod. (See “Removal” under “Parallel Rod,” 
page 133.) 

Remove the spindles with steering arms. (See “Removal” under 
“Front Axle Spindles,” page 134.) 

Remove the roller bearing mountings in the upper ends of the axle 
yokes and the plain bearings at the lower ends of the axle yokes by 
tapping them out. 

Inspection 

Lines “C” and “D,” Fig. 45, drawn through the centers of the 
bores in the axle yokes from which the bearing mountings and 
bearing bushings were removed, should be in the same plane and 
parallel. 



The center line of the bores in the yokes should incline one-eighth 
inch from the upper face of the upper yoke to the lower face of the 
lower yoke. This may be tested by placing the axle upside down 
upon parallel bars as shown in Figs. 45 and 46, and with a square as 
shown in Fig. 46, taking dimensions “A” and “B.” These dimensions 
should differ by approximately one-eighth inch. 




















REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


133 


The mountings at the upper ends of the yokes, and the bushings in 
the lower ends of the yokes should be a press fit into the axle. 

The mountings, cones and rolls of the roller bearings should be 
smooth, free from pits and not chipped. The cages should be in good 
condition. 



Fig. Jf6—Inverted Front Axle, End View. 

There should be no more than .005 inch clearance between the 
spindle bolt and the bushing at the lower end of the axle yoke. 

Inspect the spindles. (See “Inspection of Spindle” under “Front 
Axle Spindles,” page 135.) 

Replacement 

In replacing the spindle bolts adjust the nuts at the lower ends in 
accordance with directions under “Adjustment of Spindle Bearing,” 
page 49. 

Adjust the front wheel bearings in accordance with directions 
under “Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings,” page 51. 

In adjusting the nut at the front end of the steering connecting rod 
do not adjust it too tightly. Tighten it only sufficiently to take up all 
shake. 

Adjust the spindle arm stop screws “H,” Fig. 47, in accordance 
with directions under “Spindle Arm Stop Screws,” page 49. 

PARALLEL ROD 

Removal 

Remove the nut “P,” Fig. 47, at each end of the parallel rod. 
Remove the taper pins which prevent the parallel rod bolts from 
turning and tap out the bolts, being careful not to damage the threads. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Parallel Rod —Examine the rod. It should be 
straight and free from dents. The threads on the ends of the rod and 
in the rod yokes should be in good condition. 

There should be no more than .005 inch clearance between the 
bushings in the yokes and the bolts. If it is necessary to replace 














134 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


one of the bushings remove it with a press, or by driving it out, 
and press, or carefully drive in, the new bushing. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Examine the bearing surfaces of the 
spindle bolts, also the threads on the ends of the bolts and the threads 
in the nuts. 

Replacement 

In replacing the yokes on the rod have the threaded ends at each 
end extend an equal amount into the yokes. 

After replacing the rod, align the front wheels in accordance with 
directions in this book under “Alignment of Front Wheels,” page 52. 
Do not re-align the front wheels by adjusting one yoke only. Adjust 
both yokes so that the parallel rod will extend into each yoke an equal 
amount after the work is completed. Be sure that the parallel rod 
extends into each yoke at least one inch. 

Do not tighten the nuts “P” sufficiently to, bind the yokes on the 
steering arm. 

FRONT AXLE SPINDLES 

Removal 

Jack up the axle and remove the wheel. (See “Removal of Front 
Wheel and Bearings” under “Wheels,” page 140.) 

Remove the nut “P,” Fig. 47, from the parallel rod bolt. 

































REMOVAL, IN SPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 135 


Remove the taper pin which prevents the parallel rod bolt from turn¬ 
ing and tap out the bolt, being careful not to damage the threads. 

If removing a left spindle, next disconnect the steering connecting 
rod from the steering arm. (See “Disconnecting Front End” under 
“Steering Connecting Rod,” page 1/0.) 

Remove the nut “B.” 

Remove the taper pin “A.” 

Drive out the spindle bolt “C,” being careful not to injure the 
threads. 

Remove the spindle. 

To remove the steering arm, first remove the large nut, then either 
press or drive it out, being careful not to injure the threads. 



Fig. J+8—Right Front Spindle, Sectional View. 


Remove the speedometer gears in the right hand spindle by unscrew¬ 
ing the nut “D,” Fig. 48, pulling out the cotter pin “G” and removing 
the cap “F.” 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Spindle —Placed on lathe centers, that part of the 
spindle which receives the wheel bearings should run true within .002 
inch. 

There should be no more than .002 inch clearance between the 
cones of the roller bearings and the spindle. 

The threads on the spindle should be in good condition. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect the roller bearings. The 
cones, rolls and mountings should be smooth and free from pits and 
chips. The roller cage should be in good condition. 

There should be no more than .005 inch clearance between the lower 
end of the spindle bolt and the bushing in the axle yoke. 

The threads on the lower end of the spindle bolt in the nut and in 
the front wheel adjusting nut and lock nut must be in good condition. 








136 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Inspect the spindle arm. (See “Inspection of Arm” under “Steer¬ 
ing Arms,” page 131.) 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

In adjusting the nut at the front end of the steering connecting rod, 
do not adjust it too tightly. Tighten it only sufficiently to take up all 
shake. 

In adjusting front wheel bearings follow directions in this book 
under “Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings,” page 51. 

In replacing the nut “B” make the adjustment in accordance with 
directions in this book under “Adjustment of Spindle Bearing,” page 
49. 

Adjust the spindle arm stop screws “H,” Fig. 47, in accordance 
with directions under “Spindle Arm Stop Screws,” page 49. 

STEERING GEAR 

Removal—(Body on Car ) 

Remove the splash pan under the engine. 

Remove the steering arm “F,” Fig. 19, from the sector shaft. The 
end of the sector shaft and the hole in the steering arm are tapered and 
serrated, the parts being held together by a large nut locked with a 
spring washer. After removing the nut and lock washer, remove the 
arm with a puller. 

Remove the cap screw “C” and the wrench “D,” and pull out the 
long eccentric adjusting bushing. 

Remove the two one-eighth inch control rods between the steering 
gear and engine. 

Remove the cover plate on the rear face of the steering gear housing. 
This plate is held in place by five five-sixteenth inch cap screws. 

Push in the sector shaft until its outer end is just beyond the inner 
face of the frame. 

Disconnect at the horn the wire running from the steering gear to 
the horn and remove the connector from the end of the wire by unsol¬ 
dering it. 

* Remove the small bronze segment gears from the lower ends of the 
spark and throttle control tubes. These gears are clamped to the 
tubes by one-quarter inch cap screws. 

*Lay back the top and pull out the spark and throttle tubes com¬ 
plete with the sector upon which they operate and the tube to which 
the sector is attached. The sector tube is clamped in place at the 
lower end by a five-sixteenths inch cap screw in the housing support 
bracket which is bolted to the lower end of the steering gear housing. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


137 


*Remove the nut which holds the steering wheel in place and with 
a puller tool number 56479, furnished by the Cadillac Motor Car 
Company, remove the wheel. Then remove the key. 

* Disconnect the steering gear bracket from the instrument board. 

Remove the rod between the carburetor and the arm on the steering 
gear. 

Remove the support for the headlight control tube and rods. 

Remove the four three-eighths inch bolts which hold the steering 
gear housing to the frame. 

Raise the front end of the car about six inches and remove the 
steering gear by passing it down between the crankcase of the engine 
and the frame of the car. 

Removal—(Body off Car) 

*To remove the steering gear with the body off the car, omit opera¬ 
tions preceded by asterisks. 

Disassembly 

It is necessary to partly disassemble the steering gear before remov¬ 
ing it, provided the engine or body are in place. With the steering gear 
removed in accordance with directions under “Removal (Body on 
Car),” proceed as follows in completing the disassembly. 

Remove the steering sector. 

Remove the support bracket at the lower end of the steering gear 
housing. The bracket is held to the steering gear housing by four 
three-eighths inch cap screws. In removing the bracket do not allow 
the thrust bearing to drop. 

Through the lower end of the housing remove the steering tube 
with worm, upper thrust bearing for the worm and the spring, washer 
and cone of the bearing at the upper end of the housing tube. 

Loosen the clamping screw at the upper end of the steering gear 
housing and remove the housing tube. If the tube does not pull out 
easily, open the clamp by carefully tapping in a small chisel. Open 
the jaws of the clamp only sufficiently to make possible the removal 
of the tube. 

Remove the set screws “A,” Fig. 19, and the collar “L,” Fig. 18, 
by unscrewing. 

Inspection 

Inspect the teeth of the worm and sector. They should show very 
little wear and be free from scores. 

There should be no more than .004 inch clearance between the 
sector shaft and the eccentric bushing in which it has its bearing. 
The eccentric bushing should be a snug sliding fit in the housing and 
free from scores. 








138 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


There should be no more than .004 inch clearance between the hubs 
of the steering worm and the bearings which receive them. 

Inspect the balls and races of the thrust bearings. They should 
be free from pits and in good condition. 

Examine the serrations on the end of the sector shaft and in the 
steering arm, also the threads on the end of the sector shaft. 

The adjusting spring at the upper end of the steering tube should 
have a minimum free length of three inches. The cone and cup of the 
bearing should be in good condition. The cone should move freely 
on the steering tube. 

The plunger springs in the spark and throttle levers should have a 
free length of thirteen-sixteenths inch and have sufficient tension to 
hold the levers where set. 

The serrations at the bottom ends of the spark and throttle tubes 
and in the segment gears should be in good condition. 

Inspect the housing, also all machined surfaces of the housing. 

Reassembly and Replacement 

In reassembling and replacing steering gear, reverse operations 
under “Removal and Disassembly.” 

Adjust the thrust bearings for the worm in accordance with direc¬ 
tions under “Adjustment of Worm Thrust Bearings,” page 49. 

In replacing the sector have the hinge of the steering wheel ahead, 
then mesh the teeth of the worm and sector so that four teeth are out 
of mesh on each end of the sector. If none of the steering arms or 
shafts have become bent and the worm and sector teeth are properly 
meshed, the front wheels should be approximately straight ahead 
when the hinge of the steering wheel is directly forward. 

In replacing the long eccentric adjusting bushing have the thick 
side of the bushing face in the direction of the worm of the steering 
gear, and make certain that the tongues on the inner end of the bushing 
enter the tongue ways in the thrust ring. Before putting the wrench 
“D”, Fig. 19, onto the outer end of the bushing, rotate the bushing 
in a counter-clockwise direction until the correct adjustment between 
the worm and sector is made. (See under “Adjustment of Worm and 
Sector,” page 50.) 

In replacing the small segment gears on the lower ends of the spark 
and throttle tubes, so mesh the teeth with the teeth of the larger seg¬ 
ment gears, that the end teeth of the smaller gears do not pass the ends 
of the larger gears in moving the spark or throttle levers from the ex¬ 
treme left to the extreme right, or vice versa. 

The adjustment of the control rods should be checked. The 
throttle in the carburetor should be permitted to “close” but should 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


139 


start to open immediately the throttle lever on the steering post is 
moved from the extreme left position. 

The lever on the distributor and timer should be permitted to 
reach the fully retarded position but should move immediately the 
spark lever is moved from the left position. 

After completing this work it is a good plan to recheck the ignition 
timing. (See under “Timing Ignition,” page 23.) 

Refill the steering gear housing with suitable lubricant. Cadillac 
Steering Gear Lubricant is recommended. 

In readjusting the rod which runs from the hand lever on the 
steering gear to the carburetor, have its forward end stand in the 
center of the slot in the lever “S,” Fig. 36, when the auxiliary air valve 
lever on the steering post is all the way down. 

If the adjustment of screw “H,” Fig. 18, has been changed, it should 
be readjusted in accordance with directions in this book under “Adjust¬ 
ment of Worm and Sector.” Make sure that the cap screws in cover 
plate are tight before making this adjustment. 

In replacing the nut which holds the steering arm to the sector shaft, 
be sure that it is well tightened. 

HOUSING FOR STEERING GEAR WORM AND SECTOR 

Removal 

Remove and disassemble the steering gear. (See “Disassembly” 
under “Steering Gear,” page 137.) 

Inspection 

With kerosene or gasoline clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Housing —Inspect the housing carefully. 

The long eccentric bushing should be a sliding fit in the housing. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Inspect all parts in accordance with 
directions in this book. 

Reassembly and Replacement of Steering Gear 

After inspecting all parts in accordance with directions in this book, 
reassemble the steering gear and replace it. (See “Reassembly and 
Replacement” under “Steering Gear,” page 138). 

STEERING CONNECTING ROD 
Disconnecting Rear End 

Remove the grease cup. 

Remove the leather boot. 

Remove the cotter pin, adjusting screw and spring. 

The rear end of the rod can now be removed from the pivot on the 
steering arm. 





140 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


To remove the rear pivot bearing, screw into it a one-fourth inch 
rod threaded on the end with number 20 thread. 

Disconnecting Front End 

Remove the grease cup. 

Remove the leather boot. 

Remove the cotter pin and adjusting screw. 

The front end of the rod can now be removed from the pivot on the 
steering arm. 

Inspection 

With gasoline or kerosene clean all parts removed. 

Inspection of Steering Connecting Rod —Examine the rod. 

It should be true and free from dents. 

Examine the welds at each end of the rod. 

The thread in each end should be in good condition. 

Inspect the adjusting screws. The threads should be in good 
condition. 

Examine the bronze bearings. All machined surfaces should be 
in good condition. 

The springs should have a free length of approximately five-eighths 
inch. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Examine the pivots on the steering 
arms. These should be in good condition and out of round no more 
than .010 inch. 

Replacement 

In replacing pack the bearings with cup grease. Cadillac Cup 
Grease is recommended. 

Take up the adjustment just enough to take up all play in the bear¬ 
ings, but not sufficiently to bind the bearings on the pivots. If the 
adjusting screws are too tightly drawn up, excessive wear on the pivots ♦ 
and bearings, and stiff steering will result. 

Do not replace the used cotter pins. Use new ones. 

WHEELS 

Before starting to remove a wheel, jack up the axle, turn the wheel 
slowly and determine if it is out of true. A wheel should run out of 
true no more than five thirty-seconds inch. Do not make this test 
either on the tire, or on the demountable rim, but on the felloe band of 
the wheel. 

Removal of Front Wheel and Bearings 

Jack up the axle until the wheel is free from the ground. 

Remove the hub cap by unscrewing it. 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


141 


Remove the locking nut “I,” Fig. 47, (left-hand thread on left- 
hand spindle). 

Remove the washer “K.” 

Remove the adjusting nut “L,” (left-hand thread on left-hand 
spindle). 

Remove the wheel, being careful not to drop the outer roller bearing. 

The inner ( roller bearing can be removed, after removing the 
retainer. The inner and outer mountings can be removed by driving 
them out. 

In removing the right-hand wheel, pull out the speedometer drive 
shaft “A,” Fig. 48, after removing the hub cap. 

Removal of Rear Wheel and Bearings 

Remove the lubricator “A,” Fig. 49, and remove the hub cap by 
unscrewing it. 



Fig. k-9—Rear Wheel Bearings and Adjusting Nuts. 


Remove the locking ring “K” and withdraw the axle shaft. If the 
axle shaft sticks it may be removed by tapping a cold chisel between 
the rear faces of the drivers on the axle flange and the bottoms of the 
recesses in the hub flange. If one of the axle shafts fits particularly 
tight, remove the looser one in accordance with these directions and 
drive out the other, by passing a bar of suitable size and length through 
the opposite end of the axle housing. 

Jack up the axle until the wheel is free from the ground and remove 
the lock nut “D,” the washer “E,” and the adjusting nut “F 

Remove the wheel, being careful not to drop the outer bearing. 
The removal of the wheel is facilitated if it is removed squarely. 




























142 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


The inner bearing may be removed after removing the retainer. 
The inner and outer mountings can be removed by driving them out. 

Inspection 

Inspection of Wheel—T he wood parts should be free from 
cracks and fitted together tightly. 

The nuts on all hub and brake drum bolts should be tight. The 
ends of the bolts should be headed over slightly to prevent the nuts 
loosening. 

Bearing mountings should be a driving fit into the wheel hubs. 

Wheels at the felloe band should run true within five thirty-seconds 
inch laterally. 

The brake drums on the rear wheels should run true within one- 
sixteenth inch radially. 

Inspection of Other Parts —Examine the bearing surfaces of the 
mountings, cones and rolls. The surfaces should be smooth and free 
from pits and chips. The roller cages should be in good condition. 

The bearing cone should have no more than .002 inch clearance on 
the spindles of the axle. 

The bolts for the rim wedges should be straight. The threads on 
the bolts and in the wedges should be in good condition. 

Inspect the demountable rims. Demountable rims should be free 
from dents or other injuries, and when off the wheel should be round 
within one-eighth inch. The locking ring, the lock, and the rivet which 
holds the lock to the rim, should be in good condition. When off the 
rim, the ends of the locking rim should point directly toward each 
other and come together. 

Replacement 

Before replacing the bearings, fill between the rolls with suitable 
lubricant. Approximately three ounces are required for each wheel. « 
Cadillac Wheel Bearing Grease is recommended. 

Adjust the bearings in accordance with directions in this book 
under “Adjusting Front Wheel Bearings/' page 51. 

FRAME AND SPRINGS 

FRAME 

Removal 

Remove the tire carrier and the tail lamp. 

Remove the body complete with top and windshield. (See “Remov¬ 
al" under “Body," page 146.) 

Remove the front fenders. (See “Removal of Front Fender" under 
“Fenders," page 147.) 

Remove the running boards and dust shields. (See under “Running 
Boards and Dust Shields," page 146.) 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


143 


Remove the radiator. (See “Removal” under “Radiator,” page 
103.) 

Remove the dust shield over the forward universal joint, and dis¬ 
connect the joint from the drive shaft on the transmission. Do not 
allow the joint to drop. 

Disconnect the brake rods from the brake pedal and the hand brake 
levers. 

Remove the pull-back spring between the clutch pedal and the 
frame and remove the copper pipe between the tire air compressor and 
the frame. 

Remove the engine in accordance with directions under “Engine,” 
page 66, but do not disconnect the transmission from the engine. 

Remove the front axle by first removing the four spring clips, then 
disconnecting the steering connecting rod at the front end. 

Remove the rear axle. (See “Removal” under “Rear Axle,” 
page 124.) 

Remove the three rear springs by removing the spring bolts at the 
front ends of the side springs and the two spring clips at the center of 
the cross spring. 

Remove the front springs by removing the bolts at the front ends of 
the springs and those at the upper ends of the shackles at the rear ends. 

Remove the gasoline tank by disconnecting the unions on the two 
pipes to the tank and removing the three nuts. In removing the 
washers under the two forward nuts observe the manner in which they 
are assembled. These washers must be put back as originally assem¬ 
bled. 

Remove the piping from the frame. 

Remove the brake cross shafts. 

Remove the steering gear by first removing the steering arm and 
then removing the four three-eighth inch bolts. 

Inspection 

Determine if the frame has become bent or sprung. To do so take 
the following dimensions: 

From the machined face of bracket “C,” Fig. 50, to the machined 
face of bracket “D” should be from 25% inches to 26 inches. 

Dimensions “A” and “B” taken from the center of the socket “E” 
to the centers of the large bolt holes in the brackets “C” and “D” 
should vary by no more than .020 inch. 

Pass a center line through the center of the bracket “E” and through 
a point equally distant from the machined faces of the bracket “C” and 
“D.” Dimensions “F” and “J,” taken from the line to the centers of 
brackets “H” and “I,” should vary by no ftiore than .060 inch. Dimen¬ 
sions “O” and “P” taken from the centers of the taper holes in brackets 




144 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


“M” and “N” should vary by no more than .100 inch. Dimensions 
“R” and “S” taken from the centers of brackets “K” and “L” should 
vary by no more than .025 inch. 

To determine if the frame side bars are parallel, lay parallel bars 
across the frame directly over the front engine support and_over brackets 
“H” and “I.” By sighting across these bars it may be determined if 
the frame is twisted. 

Examine all rivets. They should be tight in the frame.] 



Fig. 50 — Frame. 


Examine the machined surfaces of socket “E,” also the threads for 
the socket cap screws. 

Inspect the bronze bushings “T” and “V.” There should be no 
more than .004 inch clearance between these bushings and the bolts. 
The bushings should be a tight driving fit into the frame brackets. 

The clearance between the sides of the brackets “K,” “L,” “I” and 
“H” and the spring ends with the washers in place should not exceed 
.004 inch. Washers of different thicknesses are provided to take up 
play at these points. 

Examine the bushings in which the brake shafts operate. There 
should be no more than .004 inch clearance between a brake shaft and 
brake shaft bearing. 

Examine the tubular cross members. They should be straight and 
tight in the brackets at each end. 

Replacement 

In replacing, reverse operations under “Removal.” 

All spring bolts, brake shafts, etc., should be well lubricated before 
they are replaced. 

Do not tighten spring bolts sufficiently to bind the spring ends. 
After tightening the large bolts which hold the rear engine supports 
to the frame, loosen the nuts one notch before putting in the cotter pins. 

























REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


145 


SPRINGS 

Removal of Front Spring 

Jack up the front end of the car approximately four inches. 
Remove the nuts from the two spring clips. 

Remove the bolts at each end of the spring and remove the spring. 

Removal of Rear Side Spring 

Jack up the rear end of the car approximately four inches. 

Remove the nuts from the two spring clips. 

Remove the bolt at each end of the spring and remove the spring. 
A small door is provided in each dust shield to facilitate the removal 
of the forward bolts. 

Removal of Cross Spring 

Jack up the rear end of the car approximately five inches. 

Remove the nuts from the two spring clips. 

Remove the bolts at each end of the spring and remove the 
spring. 

Disassembly 

Remove the bolt in the center of the spring and the bolts in the 
clips which enclose a portion of the leaves. These bolts are headed 
over on the ends. File the ends off flush with the nuts and remove the 
nuts. Use new bolts in reassembling springs. 

Inspection 

Examine the spring leaves; they should be unbroken, free from 
cracks and smooth where they contact with other leaves. If they are 
not smooth, clean them up. 

Examine the bronze bushings in the eyes of the longest leaf. The 
bushings should be a tight driving fit into the spring eyes and have no 
more than .004 inch clearance on the spring bolts. 

Replacement 

All rust should be cleaned from the surfaces of the leaves, which 
contact with other leaves, and the surfaces should be well lubricated 
with suitable lubricant before the spring is reassembled. Graphite 
grease is recommended. 

Care must be exercised in drawing up the spring shackle bolts not to 
bind the spring ends in the shackles. 

If there is more than .004 inch clearance between the front ends of 
the rear and front side springs and the brackets, replace the washers 
by thicker ones. 

All spring clips should be well tightened. 








146 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


BODY, RUNNING BOARDS AND SHEET METAL PARTS 

BODY 

Removal 

Remove the tire carrier. 

Remove the rear fenders. (See “Removal of Rear Fender” under 
“Fenders,” page 148.) 

Remove the floor boards. 

Disconnect the steering gear bracket from the instrument board. 

Remove the tie rod between the body and the radiator. 

Disconnect the three small nickel plated copper pipes at the dash 
by unscrewing the unions and removing the four clips which support 
them. 

Remove the speedometer cable. 

Disconnect from the storage battery the large cable, and block it up 
with a dry piece of wood to prevent it touching the terminal of the 
battery. Remove the generator top cover plate and remove from the 
generator the four small wires. 

Disconnect from the front face of the dash the flexible tube which 
runs to the right-hand high tension conduit. Disconnect the low 
tension and high tension wires from the coil and remove these wires 
through the hole in the dash. 

Disconnect the two headlight wires from the body. Connectors 
are provided at the front end of the body on each side. 

Remove the rod between the lever on the steering post and the 
carburetor. 

Remove the nuts which hold the body to the frame and remove the 
body. 

Replacement 

Before replacing body make sure that the “anti-squeak” material# 
is in good condition. All body bolts should be drawn down firmly. 

Before replacing the wires to the generator, or to the coil or the 
cable to the storage battery, make sure that the terminals are clean. 
All terminals should be well tightened. 

In setting on the body, care must be exercised not to allow it to 
strike the steering wheel. . 

RUNNING BOARDS AND DUST SHIELDS 
Removal of Right Running Board and Dust Shield 

Remove the two cap screws which hold the rear fender to the run¬ 
ning board and the three bolts which hold the fender to the dust shield. 

Remove the front fender. (See “Removal of Front Fender” under 
‘‘Fenders,” page 147.) 




REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


147 


Remove the nut which holds the dust shield bracket to the frame of 
the car. This bracket is between the dust shield and the frame, approx¬ 
imately midway between the fenders. 

Remove the nine nuts which hold the running board to the running 
board brackets and the six nuts which hold the dust shield to the running 
board. 

Remove the running board. 

Loosen the forward body bolts and remove the dust shield. 

Removal of Left Running Board and Dust Shield 

Remove the two cap screws which hold the rear fender to the run¬ 
ning board and the three bolts which hold the fender to the dust shield. 

Remove the front fender. (See “Removal of Front Fender” under 
“Fenders,” on this page.) 

Remove the storage battery. This may be done after the two 
cables are removed, also the nuts on the two long hold-down bolts. 
Care must be exercised in removing the battery not to drop it or to 
spill the contents. 

Remove the four bolts which hold the dust shield to the frame. 
The four nuts are directly back of the storage battery. 

Disconnect at the dust shield, the terminal on the end of the tube 
from the tire air compressor. 

Remove the nine nuts which hold the running board to the running 
board brackets and the five nuts which hold the dust shield to the 
running board. 

Remove the running board. 

Remove the horn and pull the horn wires through the dust shield. 
Loosen the forward body bolts and remove the dust shield. 

Inspection 

Examine the dust shields for cracks and dents. 

The running board should be free from cracks and should not be 
warped. 

Examine the threads on the running board hold-down bolts and nuts. 

Replacement 

In replacing the dust shield make sure that the “anti-squeak” 
material between the fenders and shield is in good condition. 

All bolts and nuts should be well tightened. 

FENDERS 

Removal of Front Fender 

Remove the hood. 

Remove the head lamp with the bracket. 




148 


REMOVAL, INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT 


Remove the two hood pulls. Each hood pull is held in place by 
two small machine screws. 

Remove the hood shelf. The hood shelf is held in place by four 
bolts. 

Disconnect, at the body, the wires to the head lamp. The connector 
is at the forward end of the body. 

Remove the two cap screws which hold the fender to the running 
board. 

Remove the seven small machine screws which hold the fender to 
the dust shield. 

Remove the two large nuts which hold the fender support arms to 
the fender brackets on the frame, and remove the fender. 

Removal of Rear Fender 

Remove the two cap screws which hold the fender to the running 
board. 

Remove the six small bolts which hold the fender to the dust shield. 
Remove the cap screws which hold the fender to the body and 
remove the fender. 

Inspection 

Examine the fenders for cracks and dents. 

Replacement 

Make sure that the “anti-squeak” material between the front fender 
and the frame, between the rear fender and the body and between the 
front and rear fenders and dust shield is put back as originally assem¬ 
bled, or replaced by new if not in good condition. 




PART III 

LUBRICATION 

LUBRICANTS 

There are many grades of oils. There are none too good. Naturally, 
we have experimented a great deal with numerous lubricants to 
determine which are best adapted for the various parts of the Cadillac 
car. It is not always an easy matter to obtain suitable lubricants. 
The constant demand made upon us has induced us to provide suitable 
lubricants. 

Cadillac Motor Oil 

Cadillac Motor Oil is recommended and may be used for summer 
and winter. In the absence of Cadillac Motor Oil we recommend 
lubricant of the following specifications: 

Gravity not lower than 26K Baume at 60 degrees Fahrenheit. 
Flash test not below 400. Fire test not below 460. Viscosity not less 
than 220 at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The oil should be a filtered one, 
not an acid, or alkali treated oil. 

The cold test of the oil should be such that it will circulate in the 
engine at a temperature of from 15 degrees to 20 degrees Fahren¬ 
heit below zero. The laboratory cold test should be zero Fahren¬ 
heit or below. 

The oil should be refined from Pennsylvania Crude, or its equivalent. 
Mobiloil A, Monogram Medium, or Amalie Non-Carbon Oil can 
be used in summer, and Mobiloil Arctic in winter. 

Engine oil should be strained through cheese cloth or fine mesh wire 
cloth before using. 

Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant 

Cadillac Rear Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recommended for 
the rear axle and transmission. In its absence we recommend a 
mixture of steam cylinder oil and a small amount of cup grease mixed 
to such a consistency that the mixture flows easily at temperatures from 
sixty degrees to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. 

Cadillac Cup Grease 

Cadillac Cup Grease is recommended for use in the grease cups. 
In its absence, number three cup grease is recommended. 

Cadillac Wheel Bearing Grease 

Cadillac Wheel Bearing Grease is recommended for the wheel 
bearings. In its absence, number one cup grease is recommended. 

( 149 ) 


150 


LUBRICATION 


Cadillac Universal Joint Grease 

Cadillac Universal Joint Grease is recommended for the universal 
joints on the drive shaft. In its absence, number three fibre grease is 
recommended. 

Cadillac Steering Gear Grease 

Cadillac Steering Gear Grease is recommended for the steering 
gear. In its absence, a mixture consisting of seventy-five per cent 
600 W. lubricant, and twenty-five per cent number one cup grease is 
recommended. 

ENGINE LUBRICATION 

Lubricating System 

The lubrication of Cadillac eight-cylinder engines is by oil under 
pressure. A supply of oil is carried in the oil pan “A,” Fig. 51. Oil is 
drawn from the oil pan by the oil pump “C” through the pipe “B” 
and forced to the main bearings “E,” “F” and “G,” through the 
supply pipe “D.” 



Fig. 51—Engine Lubricating System. 

























LUBRICATION 


151 


The pressure of the oil is regulated by an overflow valve or pressure 
regulator “M,” containing a valve under spring tension. When the 
pressure is reached for which the valve is set, the valve is forced open 
and the oil overflows past the valve. A small hole “D,” Fig. 53, 
drilled in the regulator housing allows oil to by-pass the valve 
when the valve is seated. Oil flowing through the by-pass and oil 
forced past the valve is carried to the camshaft bearings and power 
air compressor in the gasoline system through the pipe “R,” Fig. 51, 
above and parallel to the camshaft. The forward end of this pipe is 
fitted with two nozzles from which oil flows into the camshaft sprockets 
and to the chains through holes drilled in the camshaft sprockets. 

The crank pin bearings, “H,” “I,” “K” and “L,” on the crankshaft, 
are lubricated by oil from the main bearings forced through holes 
drilled in the crankshaft. The hole drilled in the forward end of the 
crankshaft communicates with a hole drilled in the crankshaft sprocket 
through which oil is supplied to the camshaft chain. The cylinders 
are lubricated by oil thrown from the lower ends of the connecting rods. 

There is one gauge and one indicator in the lubricating system. The 
pressure gauge “0” is located on the instrument board. The indicator 
“P” is attached to the upper cover of the crankcase near the carbu¬ 
retor and indicates the level of the oil in the oil pan “A.” 

Filling Lubricating System 

A filling hole is provided on the fanshaft housing just forward 
of the distributor and timer. It is of the utmost importance that 
engine oil be free from dirt and lint and of suitable quality. (See 
under “Lubricants.”) 

Add oil if the oil level indicator “P,” Fig. 51, is down to the line 
marked “Fill.” 

There is an oil level plug in the right-hand side of the oil pan. 
This is shown in Fig. 52. If the oil level gauge does not operate from 
any cause, or fails to register correctly, remove the oil level plug before 
starting to add oil, then add oil as above directed until it just starts 
to flow from the hole left by the removal of the plug. Then replace 
the plug and filling cap. 

Note —If, on removing the level plug, oil flows from the hole for a 
few seconds, do not assume that the oil in the pan is up to the proper 
level. The level plug is at the lower end of a short standpipe which 
usually remains full of oil after the level of the oil in the oil pan has 
fallen below the upper end of the standpipe. The only way to be sure 
that the oil is up to the proper level is to allow the one or two teaspoon¬ 
fuls of oil which has accumulated in the standpipe to drain off and then 
to add oil until it starts to flow from the hole. 





152 


LUBRICATION 


When adding oil with the level plug removed, the oil level indicator 
should register “Full” when the oil just starts to flow from the hole left 
by removing the plug. 

Replace Oil in Engine 

At the end of each 500 miles of travel the engine oil should be re¬ 
placed. To replace the oil proceed as follows: 

Remove the drain plug, Fig. 52, and drain out all of the oil. 
Replace the drain plug and through the filler on the fanshaft housing, 
refill the oil pan with one and one-half gallons of fresh engine oil. 

At the end of the first 1000 miles the car is driven, and at the end 
of each 4000 miles thereafter, the lubricating system should be cleaned 
and the oil pan and baffle plate removed and cleaned. 



Fig. 52—Oil Filler, Pressure Regulator, Level Plug and Drain Plug. 

To clean the lubricating system, first drain the oil, then refill the 
oil pan with a mixture consisting of three quarts of kerosene oil and 
one quart of engine oil. Run the engine at a speed of between 600 and 
800 revolutions per minute for not more than one minute. Then stop 
the engine, drain the oil and remove the oil pan and baffle plate. 
Wash out the oil pan and clean the screen of the baffle plate. After 
replacing the oil pan, refill it with one and one-half gallons of fresh 
engine oil. 

It is a good plan to clean the overflow valve and valve seat of the 
pressure regulator, Fig. 53, as well as the housing in which they are con- 










LUBRICATION 


153 


tained, after forcing the mixture of kerosene and engine oil through the 
lubricating system. It is also important to make sure that the small 
by-pass hole is clean and free from any obstruction. A clean cloth, 
free from lint, should be used in cleaning the overflow valve. Do 
not use waste. The pressure regulator is located at the side of the 
crankcase just back of the right-hand block of cylinders. 

Replace Oil Frequently During Cold Weather 

The mileages given at which the oil should be drained and the oil 
pan and screen removed are those at which the work should be done 
during warm weather. 

During cold weather a certain amount of water accumulates 
in the crankcase of the engine as a result of condensation. The water 
thus formed either freezes, preventing the pump from drawing oil, or 
mixes with the oil, forming a thick substance which the pump cannot 
draw. It is necessary, therefore, during cold weather to drain the oil 
pan and clean the oil pan and screen much more frequently than dur¬ 
ing warm weather. 

The frequency with which it is necessary to do this work during 
cold weather depends very largely upon the manner in which the car is 
driven. In case the car is driven short distances only and frequent 
stops are made so that the engine base and the oil in the oil pan remain 
cold, it will be found necessary to drain the oil pan and clean the oil pan 
and screen much more frequently than if the car is driven longer 
distances with fewer stops, so that the engine base becomes thoroughly 
warmed. 

A car that is constantly making very short trips in cold weather 
should have the oil drained every 350 miles, or once a week, and the oil 
pan and screen of the baffle plate cleaned once a month. 

Unless the oil is drained and the oil pan and screen are cleaned 
frequently enough in cold weather, serious damage to the engine may result, 
particularly on cars in short trip service. 

Oil Pressure 

The pressure indicated by the gauge on the instrument board varies 
with the speed and temperature of the engine and the viscosity of the 
oil. When the engine is warm and supplied with fresh Cadillac Motor 
Oil or oil of approximately the same viscosity, the pressure as indicated 
by the gauge should be from five to seven pounds when the engine is 
idling. (When idling the engine should run at approximately 300 
revolutions per minute, if the screw “B,” Fig. 13, is adjusted properly.) 
At higher speeds a higher pressure should be indicated and at lower 
speeds, a lower pressure. Before the engine has become warm, higher 
pressures will be indicated at given speeds. In other words, maximum 





154 


LUBRICATION 


pressures will be indicated at given speeds when the engine is cold and 
the oil is fresh; minimum pressures, when the engine is hot and the oil 
has become thin from use. 

Adjustment of Oil Pressure Regulator 

If, when the engine is supplied with fresh Cadillac Motor Oil, or 
oil of approximately the same viscosity, and the engine is warm and 
running at approximately 300 revolutions per minute, the pressure of 
the oil is more than seven pounds, a readjustment of the pressure 
regulator should be made. If the pressure is less than five pounds, 
dirt between the valve and its seat, or an incorrect adjustment of 
the regulator is indicated. To readjust proceed as follows: 

Remove the cap “A,” Fig. 53, by unscrewing it and loosen the 
lock nut “C.” 



Fig. 53—Oil Pressure Regulator, Sectional View. 

0 

If a pressure of more than seven pounds is indicated, screw up on the 
spring seat “B.” If a pressure of less than five pounds is indicated and 
the valve and its seat are clean, unscrew the seat “B.” 

Lock the adjustment with the nut “C.” 

If it is found upon replacing the cap and starting the engine that the 
pressure is still incorrect, remove the cap again and make further 
adjustment. 

Caution —If when starting the engine after replacing the oil it is 
found that the gauge does not register pressure, stop the engine 
immediately and prime the oil pump. This may be done by dis¬ 
connecting at its upper end the oil pipe from the pressure regulator and 
forcing two to three gunfuls of clean engine oil into the pipe. Connect 
the pipe and tighten the union before starting the engine. 























LUBRICATION 


155 


TRANSMISSION AND REAR AXLE 
Replace Lubricant on Transmission and Rear Axle 

At the end of every 4000 miles of travel all of the lubricant should 
be drained from the transmission and rear axle, and these parts 
refilled with the correct amount of fresh lubricant. Cadillac Rear 
Axle and Transmission Lubricant is recommended. 





156 


LUBRICATION 



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LUBRICATION 


157 


GENERAL LUBRICATION 


Part of Car 

Lubricant 
to Use 

Total 

Amount 

Location of Filler 

Engine 

Engine oil 

One and one- 
half gallons 

On fan shaft housing 29 

Bearings in fan hub 

Engine oil 

Several drops 

Oil hole in fan shaft 30 

Engine rear supports 

Engine oil 

Several drops 

Felts in oil holes / 11 

j 23 

Valve stems 

Engine oil 

Spray from oil 
gun 

Remove valve cover / 14 
plates | 26 

Bearings on arma¬ 
ture shaft 

Engine oil 

Several drops 

At front and rear of f 24 
generator | 25 

Tire air compression 

Engine oil 

Several drops in 
each oil hole 

At front and rear of 
bottom of com¬ 
pressor cylinder 9 

Bearing at upper end 
of steering shaft 

Engine oil 

Several drops 

Oil holes at steering f 5 
wheel \ 6 

Springs 

Engine oil or Cad¬ 
illac Rear Axle and 
Transmission Lub¬ 
ricant 


Apply to sides and 1,2 
ends of leaves 1 15 

1 17 

[ 28 

Wheel bearings 

Number one cup 
grease 

Three ounces in 
each wheel 

Remove wheels f 3 

j 16 

1 19 
l 31 

Starter gear shaft 

Number two cup 
grease 

Two ounces 

Screw cap under 
nickeled plate on 
floor boards near 
accelerator 22 

Mechanism in dis¬ 
tributor housing 

Number two cup 
grease 

Ten ounces 

Breather at rear of 
distributor housing 27 

Transmission 

Cadillac Rear Axle 
and Transmission 
Lubricant 

Two Quarts 

On right side of 
transmission case 21 

Rear axle 

Cadillac Rear Axle 
and Transmission 
Lubricant 

Five quarts 

On rear cover plate 18 

Clutch thrust ball 
race 

Cadillac Rear Axle 
and Transmission 
Lubricant 

One ounce 

On collar of ball race 10 

Universal joints 

Cadillac Universal 
Joint Grease or 
Number three fibre 
grease 

Eleven ounces 
each 

On casings around j 4 
joints j 20 

Steering gear 

Cadillac Steering 

Gear Grease or a 
mixture consisting 
of % 600 W Lub¬ 
ricant and 34 num¬ 
ber one cup grease 

Three pounds 

At “R” and “G” J 12 
Fig. 18 \ 13 


NOTE—The figures in the last column refer to the “General Lubrication Diagram,” Fig. 54. 































































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